krakow
has an amazing pub-club scene; 2 stoors under the ground in old 'caves'.
be sure that you have seen 'schindlers list' before you go and you'll recognize a lot of places (even the factory). there is one contemporary art museum 'the bunker' but the quality of its exhibitions is not that high. unfortunately i missed the designshops. but 'design' is more of the western world and poland was part of the commuworld, maybe when you are looking for that kind of stuff there will be some shops.
krakow
Yes - I second that, having spent a week there a few years ago. It is better to focus on Jazz and Wodka appreciation than modern design in Krakow. If one can forget of the history of the place, it can be a lot of fun and incredibly charming, and it has the energy of the students (it is a college town) with the efficient city layout and architecture of ye ol' Europe. In that sense, very retro.
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