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How to properly oil the wood panels on a 50+ year old Eames Lounge Chair  

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kin1117
(@kin1117)
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07/05/2013 3:13 am  

I may be asking a lot, but was wondering if anyone could provide some step by step instructions to oil the rosewood panels on an Eames Lounge Chair. I don't even know what kind of oil to use or where to find it, let alone how to apply. Is it difficult at all? Any advice is much appreciated.


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bgillettephoto
(@bgillettephoto)
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07/05/2013 7:05 am  

Here's what Alexander Girard ...
Here's what Alexander Girard recommends:


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bgillettephoto
(@bgillettephoto)
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07/05/2013 7:08 am  

The instruction booklet that ...
The instruction booklet that came with my current-production oiled chair says to use linseed oil or gunstock oil and #0000 steel wool in place of sandpaper. I'd start with steel wool and if you need something stronger then step up to #000 grade. Sandpaper just sounds like too much of a risk.


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joe L
(@joe-l)
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07/05/2013 8:46 am  

50+ might be different than...
50+ might be different than mine, but as per Vincent from HM my 1976 just needed Johnsons Paste Wax.
I applied it with lint free cloth, and once dry to the touch polished it with a clean cloth to a nice shine...


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tktoo
(@tktoo)
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07/05/2013 5:58 pm  

Clean it first.
Lightly sand any rough areas with P400 or higher, then give the outsides of the panels a vigorous rub down with mineral spirits or naphtha on a clean rag.
Treat the surface with whichever oil finish for furniture you like according to the directions on the container (*especially* the part about safe disposal of oily rags). Two or three applications should suffice. Apply paste wax after a few days to even out or enhance sheen if desired.
Left untouched, both wax and oil finishes effectively disappear over time due to oxidization resulting in wood surfaces looking dry. Overapplication results in a gummy build up.


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kin1117
(@kin1117)
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08/05/2013 4:14 am  

I looked at the Q&A section...
I looked at the Q&A section on the Herman Miller website for the maintenance of the wood finishes. Below is part of their response:
"For each chair that we create with this finish (the oiled finish), our team in Michigan hand oils the veneer pieces over the course of several days before the chair is assembled. The hand oiled finish requires a little more care for the owner and has a lower sheen than our standard finish. With the hand oiled finish, you will need to re-oil in the first few years and be careful not to use wax based dusting products. We offer the hand oiled finish both as Oiled Walnut and Oiled Santos Palisander."
They specifically said not to use waxe based products, so I wonder if it conflicts with what joe L's experience. It seems like joe L has had some good results with it. Or at the end of the day, it doesn't really matter oil or wax we use?....... Thanks for everyone's input.


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tktoo
(@tktoo)
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08/05/2013 4:52 am  

Cleaning first with the recommended solvents
will remove any grime or previously applied wax. Properly applied, oil finishes like Watco won't normally be affected by a little remaining wax residue.
There's no reason to overthink this process as there is little, if any, risk of doing harm. Simply use proven products and follow the directions on their containers. The basic idea is to leave behind the least amount of either oil or wax on the surfaces as is practical.


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bgillettephoto
(@bgillettephoto)
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08/05/2013 5:37 am  

kin1117 -
None of the official instructions I have read have ever mentioned anything about waxing - some actually warned against it. I would think that wax would act as a barrier, preventing the wood from absorbing oil in the future. On the other hand, I can see where a paste wax would be used on the later lacquered finishes.


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Tulipman
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09/05/2013 1:58 am  

Agreed! These shouldn't shine
The Eames lounge looks best with a satin finish,not a slick, glossy finish.Perhaps proper for your car or shoes,but,not your 670!


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kin1117
(@kin1117)
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09/05/2013 2:02 am  

I must admit that I get a...
I must admit that I get a little paranoid about causing irreversible harm to my beloved furniture, so thanks to everyone's input. I got a response from a Herman Miller rep:
"INSTRUCTIONS FOR REOILING EAMES WOOD PARTS:
To prepare surface prior to applying oil, firmly rub entire surface with No. 000 steel wool in direction of grain to remove small surface mars, light scratches, and any build-up from previous oiling.
To improve the appearance of deep scratches and nicks, sand with No. 360 grit sandpaper in the direction of the grain. Use caution on veneered surfaces to avoid sanding through the veneer.
To restore finish, after rubbing with No. 000 steel wood, apply oil in direction of grain with soft cloth saturated with gunstock (boiled linseed) oil. Within 10 minutes, rub again with a dry cloth until the entire surface is dry. After about three hours, polish with a soft dry, clean cloth. "
It seems similar to what some of you've suggested here. I'll probably start with No.0000 just to be on the safe side. You guys are great =)


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Loftguy
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14/05/2013 7:04 am  

What type of Gunstock Oil did you use ... to Kin1117 and Tulipman
So, I removed all the panels of my Eames Lounge Chair and ready to light sand and apply some oil in it. I was glad that the shockmounts (both under the arm pads and back rest) are in great shape, so needless to say, I wont need new shockmounts. However, I'm ready to pull the trigger on doing the restoration just on the Brazilian Rosewood Panels, but just need an advice as to what type of Gunstock (Linseed) Oil to purchase. Any recommendation as to what brand I should purchase? I have read most threads here and have not gotten across the brand name you have used and where you purchase them.
I appreciate a feedback.


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Loftguy
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14/05/2013 12:17 pm  

Found some MINWAX Wood Finish Gunstock 231
I couldn't get off on the itch of starting this Eames Lounge Chair Restoration project, it has been several weeks and I finally walked in to my local Home Depot and found this Minwax Wood Finish "Gunstock 231" product. Does anyone have experience with this product? I would appreciate a feedback/concern/issues/success etc. I have #000 steel wool, 320 and 220 sandpaper and also bought 100% Pure Lambskin Pads made by Applicator & More.
Hopefully, one of you guys respond to my inquiry, otherwise I'll be starting this tomorrow afternoon.


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tktoo
(@tktoo)
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14/05/2013 7:13 pm  

Do not use it!
Minwax Gunstock 231 is a pigment stain, not an oil finish.
I have no idea what's up with HM or the others here with the whole "gunstock oil" thing. Are we in some sort of time warp to 1959 or something? It's the 21st century now, ladies and gentlemen. We have way better stuff these days than "boiled" linseed oil... and that's from a traditionalist.
Do yourself a favor. Buy a little can of Watco and follow the directions printed right on it.


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Solange
(@solange)
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14/05/2013 11:17 pm  

I must say
tktoo said it best, there's no need to overthink this. For goodness sake you could use leftover olive oil at the bottom of a Greek salad on the chair and it would look great with no harm done....
Many years ago, in the interest of avoiding unnecessary chemicals, I did in fact oil my furniture with a mix of olive oil and lemon juice...worked just fine, and years later the furniture has neither suffered nor protested a moment from it.
I have used Howard's feed n wax to nice, albeit subtle results, although I find there does not seem to be enough wax in the product to buff to a pleasing enough sheen.
good luck!


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rockland
(@rockland)
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15/05/2013 12:28 am  

.
Wow, good save. I never use minwax products. I can't believe they use the word 'gunstock' as a stain color choice. It is RED.
The letter referenced is saying, "go grab daddys gunstock oil". What he uses for the stock of his gun. Probably a linseed oil. Usually just a little 5oz in his gun case.
I use Parker and Bailey. No wax or silicones.


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