Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Hey again Spanky, | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | AbSoDeS | Repair | |
| Hey again Spanky, Thanks for all this information, you really seem to know your stuff ! And unfortunately you partially confirmed what I thought/suspected yesterday evening after posting... Still... (stubborn inside) I tried today with white/wood glue, diluted in a seringue and a huge plastic bag filled with water to keep the pressure on it. It worked, but I think the fabric would've unstick pretty quick in the future, and it's proven to be long and fastidious to do it properly hahaha. So I changed my mind, and removed the fabric from the chair (It'll allow ... | |||||
| I'd start with heat.....try a | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | jesgord | Repair | |
| I'd start with heat.....try a hairdryer until the glue gives way. If that doesn't work, you'll have to try a solvent to break down the glue. Vingegar diluted to about 30% works on some wood glues. | |||||
| Makes sense, that must be why | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Kyle Barrett | Repair | |
| Makes sense, that must be why you get white rings from hot mugs! I think by the time it's diluted it's quite a bit less dangerous, the vapor is more dangerous but not the kind of quantity you'd get from | |||||
| I should add... | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | mgee76 | General discussion | |
| I should add... The liquid stripper is going to be more friendly on the chairs than the Citrustrip, on account of angles, but it will again, take forever. I would suggest you strip the table first and learn the technique before tackling the chairs. Whatever you do, always clean the surface that you have stripped as soon as you have everything removed. Even if there is still finish on the wood, clean off all the stripper with Mineral Spirits, diluted dish soap, or Murphy's Oil soap. Nothing worse than cleaning dried stripper residue a day later. | |||||
| fix it | 1 Relevance | 13 years ago | trollslayer | General discussion | |
| fix it inject with diluted adhesive in lifted areas in multiple locations, duct tape a semi-flat, inflatable stretching ball to it, inflate ball, wait, enjoy. | |||||
| . | 1 Relevance | 13 years ago | rockland | General discussion | |
| ... any light clothing to turn orange with minor 'sweaty butt' in hot weather. leif. I use at least a dozen tea bags in just a small pint of boiling water. A box of 48 in a 1/2 gallon. You can really kick it with a cup of iron sulfate, found in your garden center. Still not sure if you will get true black on cord. Permanent ink is instant dark rich black even diluted. | |||||
| Permanent sometimes means permanent. | 1 Relevance | 14 years ago | tktoo | General discussion | |
| Permanent sometimes means permanent. I'd probably try denatured alcohol first, then oxalic acid, then hydrogen peroxide, then contacting a furniture conservator. The problem is that even if you find the right solvent you risk driving the diluted stain deeper into the pores. Always keep clean, dry rags or cotton balls handy to blot away excess Bon chance! | |||||
| Tips and Tricks | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | Jessica T | General discussion | |
| Tips and Tricks We have a Milo Baughman 1960's chair and a 1970s couch and chair set, both in vinyl, both through several sets of owners and abused. Both needed quite a bit of cleaning. Two-step process: 1) diluted dishwashing soap (like Palmolive or Dawn) and warm water and a slightly damp rag/toothbrush 2) Meguiar's Gold Class Leather Cleaner and Conditioner They cleaned up pretty well - not perfectly, but much better than expected. | |||||
| That's a tough one. Seems | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| ... few colors so you may have to mix yellow and brown with maybe a touch of black to get the right color. I would not experiment on the chair, though. Buy a coil of cheap paper cord and and wrap some snugly around a board so that it's easy to handle and stays put. Get all of it it damp and then lighten half of it with diluted chlorine bleach. Let dry and then try out different dye combos until you hit on the right one. This way you can also see how it looks when it dries--I mean, how well it blends at the perimeter. Please post before and afters and a desc ... | |||||
| Murphy's Oil Soap will remove | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| Murphy's Oil Soap will remove all nicotine/tar residue but it will also break down the oil finish on the wood---at least if you use it undiluted. I think that it just makes a sticky mess when diluted with water...? I think I tried it that way once and then just went to full strength. You can restore the patina with oil, it just may take a few more coats than usual. At least the stuff I've redone has always come out fine with just oiling. If you do end up using Murphy's, just be sure to rinse it ALL off before oiling!! Any film of soap could cause the oil ... | |||||
| I have restored many Siesta | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | jones4leather | General discussion | |
| I have restored many Siesta chairs, and found all types of hardware at larger hardwares stores, such as Ace and Home Depot in the US. The cap nuts can be found tinted black, dark bronze, copper, dark gold and antique silver To care for the leather - I disagree with EddyB. Leather is very sensitive to the pH (acidity) of products, which should be close to pH of 4.5. Only use products designed for specifically for leather. If you care for it with the correct products, it will last many years, averaging 4 times longer than fabric. If you mess around with home p ... | |||||
| That would help but if you + ... | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | HPau | General discussion | |
| That would help but if you + ... That would help but if you + screen the ledge (magazines, what?) isn't really ply but a simple lamination which I wouldn't want to stress either, you never know with board prodcuts quite what you're getting, diluted glues etc. Sorry you got in before me, well I guess if you feel its ok then it could be fine. | |||||
| Thanks everyone! | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Mies Davis | General discussion | |
| Thanks everyone! I actually went ahead with a slightly diluted bleach solution and it took the yellowing off immediately. The soft ivory of the rilsan is not nearly as harsh a contrast to the formica top now. Thanks so much! I would post photos but my flickr account is not accessible right now. | |||||
| Pegboard | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | barrympls | General discussion | |
| Pegboard has excellent ideas.....I take my back my diluted bleach suggestion in favor of Soft Scrub. Pegboard's also right about the current Tulip's having a tacky, shiny and thinner surface that chips easier than the older finishes. I bought a single vintage Saarinen stool on eBay when I first started assembling furniture for the house I've lived in for almost 4 years and i did have the fabric redone (as it was nasty torn vinyl). My upholstery friend had a remnant of genuine Knoll wool red fabric and did a swell job on the upholstery and we both decided to ... | |||||
| I'm with everybody else on this | 1 Relevance | 13 years ago | teakhound | General discussion | |
| I'm with everybody else on this Clark - this is a tough one to tackle regardless of your experience and expertise. Not only do you have to contend with a massive surface area, but also different types of damage. Here are the issues I see and possible methods to fix them: 1) black stains on the top :: these areas will first need to be stripped of their original finish (I use Soy Gel exclusively - easier on your body and the environment compared to just about everything else), bleached with hot oxalic acid (not nearly as bad as most people think), and the acid ... | |||||
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