Search result for: the-last-thing-you-aquired-
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| One of my very good frien... | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | LRF | General discussion | |
| One of my very good frien... One of my very good friends owns this chair and It came from the Price Tower from the estate of Caroline Price, owner of the original Price Tower, designed by Frank Lloyd wright Wright designed these chairs for the tower and they are too cool My friend wants to sell it to me for $20,000 and I am real close.. I would like to have the chair reproduced since he told me there is no royalty to be paid to FLW or the Price estate. as you know I have several companies and I know of one company that is a foundry that works in Aluminum . I think it would be cool to have a limited run of 50 ( better than those stupid eames elphants for 2000.00 what do you think I have no idea if i will to any thing other than purchase this rare treat. | |||||
| Mies MR chair . | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| Hello , A few weeks ago i bought the mr side chair . This chair was a display model in the knoll's previous partner store in greece and i know that it is 100% percent authentic as it has the knoll studio stamp on base also it has a sticker with serial code and certificate of authenticity but i am not sure for one thing. Under the seat there is a curved metal tubular bar that joins the two sides of the chair . This metal bar is not stable . Is that normal? I know that all mrs have this metal bar but i used to think that this metal bar was stable . Apart from that i would like to know the reason of the existence of this bar . I can see a similar flat bar under the barcelona couch but it is screwed an stable also the tugenhdhat chair has two and i know that the first one is screwed and stable. So.. what happens with the MR collection ? I thought that this bar was stable and was used to help the chair not to loose its shape. What do you guys think? Thanks | |||||
| Leif, | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | Richard Tanimura | General discussion | |
| Leif, You said TWO interesting thing. Did Hovmand design for Möller? If so that is news to me. Second, Yes, I would appreciate,some kind of description. I started to get curious about this when I was redoing a chair. The use of material let the designer do something unique and rather pretty. I started to think a bit about how limitations or advantages in construction and material constrain or free the designer to do things. It struck me that these Möllers are audacious. You have to be to stick these long, slender legs onto the seat. In effect, you are attaching a long lever to a small area and asking somebody to play with it. The Möller design gives the chair a different kind of elegance but takes risks.I am curious how they hedged their bets. | |||||
| Plywood | 1 Relevance | 14 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| Plywood might be slightly less prone to cupping than either veneered MDF/particle board or a solid-wood panel. The worst thing that happens to plywood is twist, which is likely to be built in during manufacture. The problem with that is that the entire panel (and its mates) will always be twisted in the same direction, so that adjusting an entire row of cabinet doors on a frameless cabinet (for instance) is literally impossible: the upper-right and lower-left corners of each door will stand proud, while the immediately adjacent lower-right and upper-left corners are recessed. Even a 1/16" error is immediately noticeable. Shop carefully for your materials ! | |||||
| I would guess that pieces | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| I would guess that pieces that should have a DFC mark on them based on their year of manufacture and maker would have the DFC mark regardless of whether they were sold domestically in Denmark or exported. The challenge here is that sometimes the DFC mark was a sticker than can fall off or be picked off by children. And sometimes the Danes could be infuriating about not marking their stuff. Some times makers would only put the DFC mark on their product and not the company name, though. Finally it is rare to have such good provenance that you know for certain that a piece could be expected to have the DFC mark based on the date of sale. And if you don't know the maker, then it is very hard to say whether it should have a DFC mark, as many makers were not in the club or did not want to be in the club (e.g. France and Søn). As you can see from Jesgord's wonderful post, it was primarily a marketing thing, and only very tangentially did it satisfy any export marking requirement that may or may not have been in existence. | |||||
| status quo stands | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Danish-homestore.com | General discussion | |
| status quo stands The court ruled that a fine of 4 x £200 + 2 x £100 + case costs of £21000 should be imposed on me as I had argued correctly and shown that I had grounds for complaint. I had to pleaded guilty, due to a technicality, the court was lenient. TS had sought a fine of 5 x £10000 or 18months in jail. I beleive that a deal had been made by the "people in grey" not to force the issue as the argument was very strong for a dismissal of the law and this would have meant embarrasment for the government. To date this cost me in total over £150.000 so keep your fingers crossed as the law STILL stands and STILL makes criminals of us all. Oh yeah and no fucker stood up to be counted. The only one who ever spoke about it (behind my back) was Planet Bazaar who was overheard saying "oh they are the people who started all that fire thing" Since then nothing . . . . . . | |||||
| Thank you, Minimoma. The | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Detroitism | General discussion | |
| Thank you, Minimoma. The ability to attribute an object certainly has its purpose but, no, it's not always necessary. My home is full of both attributed and non-attributed objects. I don't always care to identify something- it's enough just to love finding it and having it. But the biggest thing about attribution, for me, is the thought that if I should get hit by a bus tomorrow, my kids should know the collection before donating it to the Salvation Army. Attribution is also important to me because I love to turn old interesting finds into new things. I can't dismantle a vintage item that's intact before making sure that I'm not harming an object that may be important. But the bottom line purpose for this thread was simply to get a general education on the use of numbers on furniture not only to help identify this table but a better understanding of these numbers for future use. | |||||
| . | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | HPau | General discussion | |
| . There are all sorts of shaping jigs that can be devised, I think Wegner was a bit of a master at it, usually there is some sort of guide against which a shaper cutter (like a router bit but bigger) runs. There would almost always be a bit of hand filing and sanding to tidy things up. Did you ever see the asymetrical turning for the round chair that was shown on the dkvogue video? I think there was also something that was once used for that sort of thing called a pantograph but am not sure about that. Do you have a pic of the chair without a seat pad or cord? I worked out a way of doing something similar a while ago with a kd fitting and sanding out the end of seat member on a drum sander, having a convex surface mating a concave surface like that might help resist any twist but it'd need testing. There are more experienced folk than me on here though, perhaps they have some better ideas. Yes, spokeshaves...should arrive in a couple of weeks, if only I can get some shed time... | |||||
| Thx Koen. Funny you should... | 1 Relevance | 20 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| Thx Koen. Funny you should... Thx Koen. Funny you should mention Conran - its become a bit of a standing joke at home over the last few weeks that every time I go out I come back with an old Terence Conran piece! (table, 2 chairs, 2 lamps) His stuff is quite scarce normally - the cane he liked to use rarely stands the test of time. Unfortunately for such an important design figure (as opposed to designer) his own early designs don't yet have great commercial appeal. I have one of his garden planters though, apparently done when he was sharing a railway arch with Eduardo Paolozzi. Lovely thing (very similar to some Architectural Pottery pieces) but the cone is apparently made of some kind of cement/asbestos mix which probably makes it unsaleable! | |||||
| Okay. I'd start by scrubbing | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | tktoo | General discussion | |
| Okay. I'd start by scrubbing the whole disassembled thing down with mineral spirits or naphtha, rags, and maybe a not-too-stiff plastic bristle brush. You know, really scrub off whatever comes off, You could even use a worn Scotchbrite pad here and there if you're not too aggressive with it. Now would also be the time to remove any shock mounts slated for replacement. The "slots" in the spine: Clean out any loose wood fibers with files, X-Acto knife, sandpaper, or whatever works. Then fashion relatively tight-fitting plugs of hardwood like maple or oak and glue them in place with PC-7 being careful to thoroughly mix the epoxy paste, making sure that all glue surfaces are fully wetted, and that there are no voids. Try to leave a relatively smooth surface on the show face. You don't want to do a lot of sanding and risk cutting through the surrounding veneer. Probably best to mask with blue tape and work flat if you can. You can always add another layer of the epoxy as long as you thoroughly wash the previous application with acetone to remove amine blush as it can interfere with proper adhesion between layers of epoxy applications. Then I'd do the same with the holes in the back panel. The idea is to end up with nice flat and smooth fills. As SDR mentioned, the finished surface is all about texture, since the wood was originally (and will be when you're done) covered with a mostly opaque film. So, (here's where the artistry comes in) next incise into the filled areas a pattern of lines following the grain of the surrounding veneer as a guide. Scratch them in with a needle, knife, or any other tool that produces the desired effect. No messing with trying to make veneer patches! If you're not happy with the first try, clean it off, fill the scratches with epoxy, and try again! Done well, this technique can be quite convincing under paint. When you're all done with that step, spray the whole thing with a couple of thin coats of Krylon gloss black. When that's thoroughly cured, rub out with #0000 steel wool, install new shock mounts, drill new holes in the spine, assemble and paste wax it ...and voila! That would be my approach in a nutshell. Of course the details can be varied to suit desired results with regard to the finish and how worn one might want it to appear. So hit me with any opinions or questions and I'll respond sometime tomorrow. | |||||
| I'm grateful in some ways I | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | Kyle Barrett | General discussion | |
| I'm grateful in some ways I don't deal with life changing sums of money like these. I am happy lucking in on good design every now and then at very comfortably below the 1k mark. I just wrote out an entirely speculative paragraph about the whys and whos and in all honesty it's irrelevant, so I deleted it. I see why Leif had to do this, because this isn't a small amount of money we're talking about and it's just morally not correct for the price not to be adjusted for them and for the repair details to be referred to so nonchalantly - this is the point of this thread. However, talking of the objects themselves it's an amazing set despite the damage. And the table is utterly dreamy, I am not particularly fond of the look of the Egyptian chairs personally but that table is a real special thing. Are the silver inlays entirely decorative or have some sort of structural importance? I only ask as their placement is curious. | |||||
| I guess IKEA | 1 Relevance | 18 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| I guess IKEA The C&B cushions will most likely lose their shape within a few years, or at least the back cushions will. But they're pretty easy to replace, just get some foam cut to shape and wrap a lot of thick poly upholstery batting around it and stuff it all back into the covers. That said, the C&B sofa still looks clunky. The $2000 one is nice but as you say, you'd be uncomfortable letting the kid on it, and it's a bit high in price. The IKEA cushions will also break down over time, probably sooner than the C&B's, but by then you'll be ready for something better. I doubt either the C&B sofa or the IKEA one will have much resale value in 3-4 years, so you're essentially looking at spending another $350 now for something that looks clunkier. That's how I see it, anyway. It can take a long time to find the right used sofa. Ditto on floor models, though when you do score, it's a lovely thing. | |||||
| Along these lines... | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | dcwilson | General discussion | |
| Along these lines... If you think a Nelson leaves waffle butt when you sit on it, imagine what happens when the edges are radiused. While it removes the pain of sharp edges, it encourages slippage into the cracks. But here's the thing: you both own them despite their impracticality. This indicates to me that persons do not require much practicality in this sort of bench, regardless of whether the designer is famous, or not. What about filling the spaces between the slats with a material that solves the problem and yet retains the slatted wood also? I know, I know, it contradicts the idea of a slatted bench, but what the heck? Whatever works and can be made beautiful is the guiding rule. What if red slates, the color of the pan beneath, were inserted between the wood slats? You'd still have a ribbed/corrugated surface, but the ribs would be closer together and there would be less slippage into gaps. | |||||
| Ace Hardware sells individual | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| Ace Hardware sells individual hole punches in a bunch of sizes! I got one and it was very good quality. I found that it worked best when I used a nylon cutting board under it. cdsilva, I'm not sure why you said you were posting the photo of the Pearsall chair joint for me---does it have something to do with my rants about Pearsall quality? I am not familiar with this particular chair and I don't remember ever seeing any metal parts like that bent rod thing on other Pearsalls. Interesting. The chair reminds me a lot of this one that I redid a few years ago. It's often attributed to Finn Juhl, but then so are lots of chairs that aren't. | |||||
| I would guess it to be at | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| I would guess it to be at least from the 1980s. Even the Danish-made teak furniture was getting kind of clunky looking by then, and the teak is lighter and more yellowy-orange. I got a nice teak sideboard on legs, Danish-made, maybe late 60s-ish, for $300 at auction a few years ago. I'd keep looking if I were you. I don't think you can resell that thing for more than they're asking. On the other hand, if you really love it, go for it. You might be able to get your money out of it when you find something you like even more, later. In the meantime, look at lots of pictures online, make pinterest boards or use Flickr or just your own computer to save the stuff you really love, then go through the photos every once in awhile and delete any that no longer hold your interest. For a lot of people, tastes are always mutating and evolving and it's so easy these days to keep a record of this! It's a great way to compare similar pieces and just learn more in general. | |||||
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