Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Post is from 2+ months ago, | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | fastfwd | General discussion | |
| ... cushion seems to be the right size, but its profile isn't correct. None of the photos shows the complete chair or ottoman, and the chair photo is a 3/4 view, which is the one that's most flattering for those Chinese fakes (and it's also one I haven't been able to exactly replicate from any angle around my genuine chair, but I only have a cellphone camera so it's possible that the difference is due to lens effects). On the other hand, the bottom of the ottoman looks approximately right (except for the wrong screws), and the relationship between the width of ... | |||||
| It's probably covered in one | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| It's probably covered in one of the three big long threads on paper cord weaving, but it's not that complicated---I use diagonal pliers and grip the nails at the level of the wood but GENTLY (not enough to cut through them). Then just ease them out using the rail as your fulcrum. If they break, you can still sometimes grip enough to pull the remainder out, especially with 4" diagonal pliers which have much less of a bevel and can grip close to the wood. If the nail breaks off level with the wood or is just too short to grip, just tap the remainder in flu ... | |||||
| I don't believe the top that | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Spanky | Identification | |
| ... wouldn't be thicker than the marble, and floating tabletops (as well as floating chair seats) typically cover the side rails if not extend past them. And 2) I'm pretty sure glass tops can't notched out at the corners to fit around leg posts. However, wood tops can be notched out; there are lots of examples of this in Danish design and from designers from other parts of the world. I'll add a photo of one example. When I see something like this that looks a bit off, I immediately start to imagine scenarios that led up to it being what it is now, something ... | |||||
| Rare Antonio Citterio Chaise Lounge | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | John Gorman | General discussion | |
| I have a rare Antonio Citterio chaise lounge made by B&B Italia. It's from the 1970's. It's big brother can be seen here: http://www.1stdibs.com/furniture_item_detail.php?id=190283. I'm wanting to sell it but i'm thinking it needs to go to someone who appreciates good design. The only picture I've ever see was in the Phaidon Design Classics book, page 859. It's the chaise with the diagonal back rest. If you have any recommendations of where to sell this it would be much appreciated. | |||||
| Globe Office Furniture Co. - Philadelphia - Chair | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | maxbernat | General discussion | |
| Saw this terrific Wegner-esque chair outside philly. For an office chair from 1950-ish, nice lines. I like the tapering and diagonal slant of the legs. Can't find anything about Globe. Anyone know more? | |||||
| Series 7 mystery | 1 Relevance | 17 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| Hi all, Thank you for welcoming me to your forum! My first post will be a few questions about these series 7 chairs I've had for some time. It seems like they have been "modified" in that they look like the armchair variant but with the arms simply cut off? Another thing about them that puzzles me is that the steel plate underneath has a diagonal rod that I haven't seen on other series 7 chairs. The Fritz hansen sticker says "1166" - is that the manufacturing date? Maybe someone here could enlighten me? | |||||
| Glue the foam to the burlap | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Spanky | Repair | |
| ... into the foam and when the foam is only 1/2" thick, even a little is significant because when the foam is compressed, it will stick that way and not bounce back. The foam will get mushed into place when you pull the vinyl around the sides to just inside the frame or at least covering the bottom edge of the rails. No need to fasten it down first. Smooth the leather from the center of the seat to the edges with the flat of one hand to get the most even tension, then put a few temporary tacks in. Do a few on one side, then a few on the opposite side, then ... | |||||
| You could conceivably replace | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Spanky | Repair | |
| ... it deserves a beautiful seat. Sources: HHPerkins.com Caning.com CaneAndBasket.com BasketMakersCatalog.com FrankSupply.com and probably a few others The first four are all about the same for a 2 lb coil, but shipping may vary a lot depending on your location. Frank's is cheaper but I know for certain that their quality went downhill a few years ago. I had a long conversation with Mr. Frank and he said at that time that he was looking into another supplier; I don't know what came of that because I switched to HHPerkins in the meantime. Their cord is excell ... | |||||
| Yeah, they look fine to me, | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Spanky | Identification | |
| ... I've tried everything, including other types of staple removers, and this is what works best, in my opinion. Amazon doesn't have the best price but they do have good detail photos of it. The points are VERY sharp. I pull the staples partway out with that, like 20 or 30 of them, then go back with diagonal pliers and pull them out all the way. I can go faster and with less hand fatigue with spring-loaded ones. 6" or 7" is fine and never grip the staple so firmly that you cut it in two. If you get a little 4" pair, you can get some of the stubs. The 4 ... | |||||
| Looks good to me. I'm glad | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| Looks good to me. I'm glad to finally see how the leg miter is joined -- with two diagonal dowels. Somewhat iffy structure if you ask me -- but you didn't. Odd angles can be copied from an object directly, using a bevel gauge; the gauge can be taken to a table saw or swiveling miter saw, the saw adjusted to match the bevel gauge, and the angle read out on the dial of the machine -- or a piece simply cut at that angle without any numbers, math, or geometry being employed ! Trial cuts in scrap material should always be made, to test the set-up, when employi ... | |||||
| The only tip I can give about | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| The only tip I can give about doing this weave that really applies to any cord seat is to apply plenty of tension while weaving, and consistent tension. If the cord is pulled consistently tight at every turn then it will naturally bend into crisp 90 degree turn, and you will not have to worry about the diagonal lines wavering from straight. I know tight is a relative term to read, but when I finish a seat it is springy from the tension, not at all like a hammock, and is much more comfortable for being springy. | |||||
| Wow. Nice. I wonder how | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| Wow. Nice. I wonder how those miters are secured. It's so easy to add a diagonal spline to a joint which has already been glued up. Looks good in a constructivist sort of way -- but essential for longevity of the joint ? | |||||
| I think the welt was done | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| I think the welt was done along the grain for a clean line around the perimeter of the chair. Cut on the bias, you can go 77 inches before you have a seam, which creates a bump, even when done properly as a diagonal seam. The chair needs 11 feet of welt, which puts the seam near the middle of the top arc. Not a pretty place for a bump. Any other arrangement requires two seams, and there isn't any good place for even one seam. The whole perimeter is very visible. As a high end chair, it might look worse to have ugly seams in the welt, making a continuous ... | |||||
| I was mildly surprised that | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| I was mildly surprised that the original welt was NOT cut on the bias. It might have been done that way for parsimony, or to maintain the grain direction. It was cut along the selvedge for the most part. A part of the cushion welting was cut across the fabric. The cushion welting even has a standard diagonal join in it. (I didn't show this in the pattern layout photo as I deferred the cushion until the end). I actually figured out the pattern layout fairly precisely because the factory was nice enough to leave selvedge on various pieces as clues. ... | |||||
| There is a name for that | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Spanky | Repair | |
| There is a name for that material but I can't remember what it is. It has shown up here before once or twice. I think it might be made of paper. But Leif is right, it's not original to this bench. If you do the work yourself, you should get a pair of small diagonal pliers (4.5" or about 115 mm) to remove the staples. The pliers are made for cutting but don't cut the staples, just grip them gently and pull them out of the wood. The small size has almost no bevel on the jaws so you can get very close to the wood if any staples break off. Use a thin piec ... | |||||
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