Stained beech: does it always look flat? and other aesthetic questions  

Beech absorbs stain very unevenly, so a very thick layer of tinted lacquer is used to "stain" it. This is what gives it the flat look. Additionally the lacquer is slowly degraded by UV and other problems, making the surface dull. Finally, UV destroys certain molecules in the tint faster than others, so strange discoloration can happen over 50 years. For instance, Selig's "saddle" color stained beech can become a greenish brown.

Beech that is stained with a thin oil stain can look lovely. It has very vibrant rays. Most makers, designers, and buyers are not comfortable with this much "character" inconsistency in their wood.

Thank you. So it makes sense that an old piece of stained beech could look pretty unappealing.

I'm guessing it's a huge job to try to sand it down enough in order to get to the bare wood, or even impossible since the stain sinks in a ways? So would you then just reject a piece made of stained beech that had those uneven parts, or that looked very dull or discolored?

It's easily stripped and refinished, though some of the finishes on chair frames and things can be a little tricky. When you have bare wood, use dye instead of stain for best results.

Thanks. Sounds like it would be a good deal of time even if easy!

I had a beautiful Kofod-Larsen reclincer and ottoman that was beech with tinted lacquer, i guess the Saddle color. It was supposed to look like walnut but one side was very greenish. After a few years of pondering what to do about it, I finally decided to strip it, which went ok--but of course the wood was still quite stained. I didn't want to have to sand the whole thing, mostly because I hate sanding but also because there was a limit to how much time I spend on it. So i ebonized it with ink and did the cushions in a light gray Hallingdal. It was stunning, if I do say so myself!

Ebonizing really draws attention to the sculptural qualities of a piece, and black goes well with everything. It's still a lot of work, though. But I got the chair for cheap because part of it was green, so it worked out ok for me.

I love ebonized finishes. Oh so clean, oh so elegant....except when applied to the Noguchi cocktail table base. Only walnut lights my fire on that piece. I once saw the aforementioned table with one ebony base piece and one birch? base piece...two toned tragic (2 piece base)! This actually was in the home of a Herman Miller rep, so it might have been constructed from spare parts. Now, the rep was a large man, at least 6'5", and had a big hairy belly. He cleared the table top during a house party...and danced on top of the glass table! I was shocked. The table didn't budge/squeak/bitch, or shatter. Oh.

Off topic, hi

Aunt Mark

Thanks. Ebonizing is a great idea; and I agree the black frames look very sharp; but for my own home I prefer wood, and I think you've all given me enough information now to feel confident I made the right choice. The piece in question wasn't cheap enough to justify lots of work, and it doesn't sound like I would've had an easy time getting it to look the way I want. So henceforth I'll stick with teak or walnut, unless the piece in question is extra-special, +/or a great deal.

And off topic, tall hairy-bellied Herman Miller reps can dance on my Noguchi cocktail table any time.

"And off topic, tall hairy-bellied Herman Miller reps can dance on my Noguchi cocktail table any time."

Me too. As long as they bring the Noguchi table with them (and leave it behind).