On the Pritam and Eames
archive pages i noticed a Tage Frid stool i've always
been fond of.
TAGE FRID (1915-2004)
(2) Frid believed it was important to "design around the construction, and not construct around the design," and he disapproved of designers who were "so worried about the looks and the sculptural qualities of the piece that they first think about the beauty of the piece and later worry about how it is put together."
http://www.risd.edu/about_profiles.cfm?type=faculty&profile=faculty_prof...
I'd like to see this in color!
Synethese des Arts cabinet
Design: Charlotte Perriand
http://www.designmuseum.org/design/charlotte-perriand
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That tage frid quote about designing around beauty really struck a chord, I'll have to ponder that!.
The black and white image of the Perriand cabinet is fantastic, I want one, been trying to find some books on Sonia Delaunay who worked with her and Prouve on choosing the colouring of the doors, such a deliacte balance of colours and proportions in those cabinets, its not as simple as it looks.
.
'Frid believed it was important to "design around the construction, and not construct around the design," and he disapproved of designers who were "so worried about the looks and the sculptural qualities of the piece that they first think about the beauty of the piece and later worry about how it is put together." '
While I don't think I spent enough time under Mr Frid to have been influenced as a designer, I can say that the above philosophy describes exactly my design method -- so perhaps he had an unacknowledged effect. I greatly enjoy conceiving of a novel (to me) construction and then seeing what forms that structure offers or promotes -- though when i have got a form in mind from the start, the task then becomes finding the structure which most naturally and effectively provides that form.
Mr Frid was a delight. It appears I have missed my chance to thank him.
Here's
the most recent advice on that subject, posted by Patrick and Alix, our hosts. It is only necessary to have a web host site, where you upload your images. The URL needed to post them here will be provided by that web host.
___________________________________________________________________________
Reminder: Adding pictures in your message
In the form to post your messages, you will find three fields called "associated web images" that you can use to post images.
No need for fancy codes, no tags like: img src or [img etc.
Just post the simple url of your image in these fields.
example: 
As a reminder, if you dont have your own website, there are many sites that can host your images very easily.
Here are a few:
Photobucket http://photobucket.com (free)
Picasa http://picasa.google.com/ (windows only, free)
MobileMe http://www.me.com (fee applicable) great for mac or Iphone users.
posted by Patrick and Alix
Posting pix
Duncan, if you are trying to post already existing pix from the web (as opposed to your own) just right click on any picture and a menu appears with the word "Properties" down at the bottom. Click on Properties and a http address will be given for that picture. Highlight the address and press Control + C to copy the address. Then go back to the forum and position the cursor in the "associated web images" box and hit Control + V to paste the address into the box. When your reply is posted, the picture will magically appear under your text.
Good luck!
Delaunay,
Perriand and Prouve..all masters of colour,
But surely all disciples of Josef Albers ?
http://www.articons.co.uk/albers.htm
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Sorry for the delay..
For those interested, I posted images of my studio (under Portfolio) on my website. I made an attempt to attach them, but failed.
http://www.duncangowdy.com
I'm
envious. Looks like your shop has lots of nice daylight, too. I'm working in a garage right now; the best light is from the open doors. . .
I'm using a contractor's saw that I can recommend: it's a Ryobi BT3000. For those without the ability to own a proper table saw, this unit might be a satisfactory substitute. The arbor is tight and true, the cast alloy table and rise-and-tilt mechanism are well thought-out, the extruded fence rails adjust (right and left) easily, and support an extension table on either side of the small main one -- as well as a small sliding table that really works. I bought an inexpensive 40-tooth 3/32" rip blade (Irwin 14070) that works well (including the best cuts ever on acrylic) and found a very effective 3/32" 60-tooth blade on the saw, a Black and Decker "Piranha" that also does an excellent job. I was worried about clean and accurate cross-cuts on veneered panels and solid stock; with this blade and the sliding table on the saw I had perfect results.
thats a lot of hassle really,...
thats a lot of hassle really, you should just gnaw on wood like I do, its good roughage and helps keep you regular.
It is a nice workshop isn't it? I wish mine were half as good. Though I have to agree as SDR implied you really don't need a lot of equipment to do good work, just a few quality tools, a simple design like the Perriand cabinets (subsituing wood or ply and kd fittings for the aluminium and threaded rod) and you're away.
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