end grain flooring  

That floor looks Great!
That floor looks Great!
And congratulations for the construction of new workshop! Great! Great!
Leaving just the concrete isn't enought? Perhaps that wood isn't expensive and you'll put it yourself... Will be lovely, will look like a luxurity workshop! Great! Great! Great! Keep us posted with some pics if you have time.

Every moment
spent getting all your blocks to the same (height) dimension, and laying them on a uniformly flat surface without compressible chips, etc, beneath the blocks, will pay off -- because sanding end grain takes a LOT longer than sanding wood in the normal direction. And I would expect a belt sander to try to grab and upset any loose blocks, so getting them tight, perhaps with filler or adhesive (?), will be essential. (Perhaps a disc sander, while somewhat less aggressive (?), will be less of a problem in this regard. I don't have any experience with this kind of woodwork.)
Or perhaps you don't intend to sand, for a shop (as opposed to residential) floor ?
Best of luck ! Yes it should wear like iron. Hope you don't have a leaky roof. . .

The linked
information seems particularly thorough. I note this section:
Conditioning: Maintain an ambient temperature between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit in spaces to receive wood products for at least seven days before installation, during installation, and for at least seven days after installation. After post-installation period, maintain relative humidity and ambient temperature planned for building occupants.
Do not install wood products until it has adjusted to the relative humidity and temperature of the space where it is to be installed.
Moisture contents between flooring/paneling and sub flooring should vary no more than 2-1/2% of one another before installation
This is particularly important because the "tiles" (what thickness would you expect these to be ?) are very prone to swelling and shrinking in width and length -- more than traditional wood flooring. (That's the source of my comment about a leaky roof !)

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Looks great end grain is really tough...

Beautiful flooring option!
Also a good use of off-cuts.
Should be very durable. The end-grain does suck up the sealer used.
I have a common cutting board built that way and needs more mineral oil
than my other boards.
I recently saw a hallway in a home, in print, using end-grain.
A section of sidewalk on the waterfront in Brooklyn is laid that way.
It stretches the openings of two large shipping bays of a long ago closed,
and recently burned warehouse. I lived in one of the metal fabricator bldgs
where the USS Monitor was built in the early 1860's. I discovered it while
walking my elder dog when she was a puppy. 17 now so that may date it
at least 30-40 years? or more. Looks like typical NY cobblestone, but wood!
Just set in soil. Must be very long stock as it doesn't budge. Anyway,
just a testament to its exterior durability.
I did read somewhere that wood used for exterior was often soaked in used
motor oil for a preservative.

Sifting through photo files.
First snowfall today...
I'm working in my old neighborhood.
Snapped some pics of the sidewalk. Looks the same as it did
twenty years ago.
Even the broken bits.

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Thanks for the update on thread, very busy lately and not much spare time.
Didn't end up using the block floor because of a drainage problem, so its bearers, joists and plywood with a masonite skin, its looking good.
Anyone here have a masonite floor? What do you think of it?
Putting up insulation in workshop, 40 + degrees here lately and sweating and itching like mad trying to get it finished...should have some new work to share in a couple of weeks. Most excited by a design for a curved room divider, we'll see.

Looking
forward to that. Keep it up . . .
I have some 1/4" tempered Masonite outside in the dirt around a tree, glued with poly to some pressure-treated pine. All good after 16 mos. -- no deterioration yet.
Photo when new:

Some fine looking slat work o...
Some fine looking slat work on the bench there.
Unfortuantely I couldn't source the tempered sheets where I am but got stuff nearly as dense, I'll give it a light sand and a few coats of floor grade polyurethane. Apparantly as a flooring material its best to acclimate it for at least 24 hours and leave 4-6 mm gap between the sheets, and if its not screwed down properly buckling can be a real problem, but overall I think it will do a good job.
Its been nice to be away from the forum for a while, Barrys sheet thread was very entertaining.
More and varied threads and posters too! Very nice.

Just did a tempered
masonite floor stained black.
It did take the stain beautifully, 3 coats.
Very porous so i gave it lots of dry time.
I think i gave it almost 8 coats of poly.
the first poly coat needs more dry time than you
would think.
We pin-nailed to give it extra adhesion.
Surprised it is holding up so well outside SDR.
A friend of mine put squares of it in his bath and
after about 5 years it is not looking so good.
(a bathroom is not a great idea unless extra sealer is used)