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Cushions for IB Kof...
 

Cushions for IB Kofod Larsen Chair  

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cassandra
(@cassandra)
Active Member
Joined: 2026 years ago
Posts: 10
24/10/2017 12:38 am  

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Spanky
(@spanky)
Illustrious Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 4376
24/10/2017 1:29 am  

I'll let someone else answer your dowel questions.

For the cushions, most people have an upholsterer make them. There are many different lounge chairs in this style and dimensions are not the same on all, so it's just easier to go to a local upholsterer and have cushions made.

That said--you want to be sure about the cushion dimensions when telling the upholsterer what you want. I don't know about this chair in particular but on most the seat cushion sits against the back of the chair and is even with the front edge of the seat frame, or extends past it up to an inch. The sides of the cushions generally touch the arm posts.

Thickness for the seat cushion is generally 3" to 4". I think back cushions look top heavy when they're the same thickness as the seat so I usually go 1" less thick. And yes, use less dense foam for the back, otherwise it'll feel too firm. Ask your upholsterer if he or she has different densities of foam in stock! Some just order the big 50' rolls of lower density because it's more economical. You don't have to cut the foam to size to test it, just drape the long end over the arm. It's kind of amazing how different the feel of the chair is depending on the foam densities of the seat and back.

High quality urethane foam is ok (do NOT get foam sold in chain fabric stores--it's cheap stuff even though they charge a lot). Latex is best but it's 3-4 times the cost of urethane and must be ordered online unless you're lucky enough to live near one of the few sources. Latex is more resilient, lasts longer, and is super comfy to sit on!

Home sewing machines come with different horsepower motors. Some have a lot of plastic parts and are just generally junky and not good for much of anything, and even the well-known brands churned out junk. Vintage machines are not necessarily better. But there are a few that are up to it, though you may want to avoid bulky fabrics, fabrics with a heavy sprayed backing, and welt. Welt just complicates it all.

Maharam sells all kinds of fabrics. The ones you want for authenticity are the Danish wools from Kvadrat (Maharam is their US distributor). Hallindgal is beautiful but scratchy, Tonus is beautiful and softer in feel, Tonica is like Hallingdal but finer gauge weave--there are a couple more but those are a good place to start looking.

Modern-Fabrics.com sells mill remnants and often they have Maharam/Kvadrat fabrics. You don't need a lot (2.5 yards? Not more than 3. Add some if doing welt.) Ebay is another source. Get swatches first!

Batting: use ONLY upholstery batting, not quilt batting which will not hold up at all with wear. Batting should be completely glued down, not just at the edges, and not stapled to foam. Cheaper spray adhesives do not hold over time.

Make sure your upholsterer does not use super thick batting on the foam. Most of them do conventional upholstery which calls for thick batting to give the look of down-filled cushions but with Danish Modern you want a cleaner, less poufy look. I usually go with 3/4" which compresses down to about 1/2" at most when the covers are on.

I think that covers it but don't hesitate to ask if you have more questions!


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cassandra
(@cassandra)
Active Member
Joined: 2026 years ago
Posts: 10
24/10/2017 1:47 pm  

Thanks, spanky, great information!


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