Oops.  

Put a towel over the dent...
Put a towel over the dent and use an iron on full steam, it should lift most of it up
Re try if it doesn't work the first time
BUT BE CAREFUL OR YOU'LL HAVE A BURN MARK AS WELL

steam
use a wall paper stripper (steam) with a fine pointed nozzle so you only apply steam to the dent. The steam will help raise the grain.
Simon

Hi,
Is it solid or...
Hi,
Is it solid or veneered? if veneered dont put heat any where near it, if you want an easy fix that will still look good get some hard wax sticks and fill the hole finding a good colour matched wax stick. If it is solid wood try a tiny drop of water leave it over night and this should lift the worst out.

Bentply...
It's an Eames EDU, so veneer plywood. Sorry, should have said in my original post.

Ok, I would go with a good...
Ok, I would go with a good colour matched wax stick, unless it is solid wood moisture will not make alot of difference to a veneered surface especially if the base is plywood.

Thanks!
Thanks, Bentply (and Ball and Simon, too -- next time, I'll be more careful about posting ALL the relevant details).
I'm going to try the wax.

GOODLUCK!
GOODLUCK!

Steaming
works well on solid wood, IF THE DENT IS SLIGHT AND NO WOOD FIBERS ARE TORN.
The photo clearly shows a severe gouge with fibers broken and compressed into the substrate layers. No amount of steaming would repair this damage. Posters would do well to examine the evidence before offering their standard advice. . .
Wax sticks come in two types, hard and soft. The softer materials, readily available in hardware stores, can be blended fairly easily to achieve the desired color, and can be pressed into the dent with a smooth and flexible putty knife. It never hurts to surround the damage with blue masking tape, to prevent unnecessary spread of color, material or tool marks. The tape is removed before final flattening of the repair.
(Hard wax sticks, so-called "burn-in" sticks, are used by professionals, using a torch or other heat source. These provide a more durable repair, which is apparently not necessary in this case.)
Heat is a useful adjunct to the wax-fill technique. A hair dryer can be employed to soften the wax materials; they can be laid out (and mixed if necessary) on a metal surface like the blade of a kitchen spatula, and heated from above or below to make a runny liquid. This can be dripped into the bottom of the dent to make a firm and well-anchored base for the surface work. More material is applied with the knife and pressed firmly, until the area is slightly over-filled.
A smooth and flexible putty knife is used to plane the final application of wax, which will be slightly proud of the surface. Paint thinner (mineral spirits) can be used to clean any tools. A clean rag dampened with thinner is carefully used to wipe excess wax from around the repair.
Colors should be chosen on the light side, and a sample prepared to compare with the existing wood color, before work is started on the damaged area. Making wood stains and fills darker is relatively easy; making them lighter after application is usually difficult to impossible.