I've been searching the googles for a few days to find an answer, but everywhere I look has given me conflicting answers or is about finishing unfinished wood. I have an Eames Lounge Chair and Ottoman with the new oiled santos palisander veneer. The care instructions from Herman Miller say that I need to periodically apply new coats, especially if the surface appears dry. They recommend gunstock oil or linseed oil - but that's where the recommendations end. Once I started looking into the different products available, I discovered that there are different types and formulations of each. Some contain varnish, some are synthetic, some are a mix of everything, etc. Other than my car I've never spent as much on a single purchase in my life and I'm terrified that I'll do something to mess it up. Does anyone here have experience with these finishes and products? I would like to maintain a "satin/matte" finish while giving the grain more definition as well as bringing out the darker reddish tones of the wood (right now it looks very orange).
I was hoping someone would ha...
I was hoping someone would have an actual brand/product recommendation as from what I've read, all linseed oils are not created equally and contain additives. The marketing and labeling I've seen has been very vague so I wanted to make sure I get something safe.
In the end, it doesn't really matter.
Properly applied, you end up rubbing off 99% of the stuff anyway and 99% of these types of finishes are just minor variations on the same oil/varnish/solvent formula wrapped in exaggerated adspeak.
I'd stick with tried-and-true Watco and maybe put it on once a year or less unless the chair gets a lot of sun. If it does get a lot of sun, moving it to someplace it won't is highly recommended.
I've never worked with palisander, but often enough these brightly-colored tropical woods will darken and lose some of their primary hues in favor of brown as they oxidize. Give it time.
Thank you, that was a bit mor...
Thank you, that was a bit more helpful. Marie seemed to assume I was worried about toxins or environmental concerns, but my concern about the different formulations is to avoid anything that will cause build up or drastically and permanently change the appearance of the wood.
Just be extra cautious
with anything containing oils or solvents (even alcoholic beverages) anywhere near leather. Generally speaking, the exterior finish on the wood panels is the least of your worries with these sets.
Don't let the drunk guy hogging all the imported olives sit in it at your party tonight!
I plan to remove all of the c...
I plan to remove all of the cushions before doing any work on the chair, as well as giving it a few days to dry before reattaching them.
I'm a VERY private person when it comes to having people in my home, and close friends understand that a lot of my stuff is from the fifties and is better looked at as sculptural objects rather than sat in. This past year I've been able to afford supplementing my vintage pieces with new productions that I don't have to worry about as much. My original plan for the lounge and ottoman was to buy the base model in lacquered walnut and a more durable, dark grey leather, but I was offered a great deal on this one that had been used very briefly as a display model. The list price came close to $8k, but I ended up paying a bit less than what I would've for a standard, no-options chair.
Many choices exist,
so your request is reasonable. What you want is pure raw linseed oil i think. It should have no additives. Boiled linseed will have additives that help it dry quicker and often used on new wood projects. More important is what to avoid. Like the grocery sprays like liquidgold that has petrolium. Also important as mentioned is to use a clean cloth and apply very thin and wipe off all of it...thirsty parts will absorb what it needs. Too thick and it will become gummy as it cures. I have a dozen options on my shelf and will still research, hem and haw about the best product to use for the job.
You may have a Rockler Woodworking in your area but your local hardware should have the basic Sunnyside.
Just give it time to cure after removing the cushions. Three days should be fine. And use an old clean t-shirt. In a dust-free area. With such a long cure time any dust or lint will cure with your finish. Wipe it down a second time after 12 and again at 24 hrs. Just to check for a possible slow drip.
http://www.amazon.com/Sunnyside-Corp-87332-Raw-Linseed/dp/B000LNQU0U/ref...
oil finish
Did you buy your chair from an authorized dealer? If you did it should have included a card you return in the mail to Herman Miller. After you do that they will send you a maintenance kit in 9 to 12 months containing oil. If you didn't receive yours, you should contact your dealer.
@rockland - thanks for the in...
@rockland - thanks for the info!
@Jimbo - It was a display model, and they just moved into a new building and are still getting all of their files back together, so I'll check it out once I get ahold of the paperwork. I know that sounds shady haha - they're a major client of mine so I trust them. Their main business is high-end suits and fashion (the CEO of Herman Miller shops there), but they're all design nuts and carry Knoll and Herman Miller. They also have a great collection of vintage pieces as well.
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