Bakelite/Catalin Repair?  

Filter
Is it possible to publish only a picture of the filter ? Would be interesting to see if the screws (at the aluminium base) get through the holes at the filter (at this point, also)?

Mike
To remove the wire, it's necessary to put a fair amount of stress on the 70-year-old repaired lampshade. I'm sorry, but I don't want to do that just to photograph the filter.
The thumbscrews do not pass through the filter.

Filter
yes, I agree and understand..

Jumo lamp - Base
I put a very interesting picture to web. Here you
see the complexity of the jumo lamp. The white material
is a special modelling-mass to bridge the missing parts.
You can imagine, this was a heavy break. It takes 1 month,
to fix only the base problems.

Jumo Lamp
other view..

position of the filter
Hi FASTFWD, may you give me a helping hand ? I had the time to work and fix some problems. Specially for procedure to fix the filter I have a question. You see the metal-frame bridging the middle of shade. Where do you put the filter on ? on the left side (red) "over" the metal-frame, "under" (blue) ? Are you able to have a look ? I also checked the base. I think the base is chromed and I found a stamp. 114-2 The Question is why it isn´t A or B ? The Stamp is on the top of the base, where you usually put the "bakelit helmet":=) on.

Mike
The filter was originally held by the three rivets on that crossbar. Without the filter, the rivets are probably a little bit loose.
If I were you, I'd cut three slots in the rear edge of your replacement filter so that you can slide it between the crossbar and the heads of the rivets (the "heads" are on the outside of the crossbar -- that is, on the side that's visible in your photo).
The filter will lift the rivet heads away from the crossbar slightly, but that's ok because there are three shallow depressions on the base into which the rivet-heads will fit. When you tighten the thumbscrews (not too tightly!), the rear edge of the filter will be squeezed between the crossbar and the rivet heads, and that pressure will hold it securely in place.
Of course, all of the above assumes that your replacement filter is a thin sheet of plastic. If you're using something thicker that won't fit under the rivet heads, you'll have to come up with another method -- maybe you can just place it on the outside of the rivet heads so it'll be held between them and the base (although that will lift the front edge of the shade where it meets the base, so you may also need a matching spacer where the shade meets the base at the rear), or cut a "step" into the rear edge of the filter so that it can rest above the crossbar... Or even glue it in place, although I'd consider that only as a last resort.
By the way... Nice work on the other lamp. Can you say what material you used to bridge the gaps?

n

Material
Hi, I am using only german products. I made my own mix. I am using a two component polyester filling and fibre glas filling, together. (producer is PRESTO). You have to work very fast. I am "forming" directly when I put it on. It takes several seconds (60-120 sec.) Very important to do it with fingers directly (a little bit dirty), but if you are using gloves, you getting no interaction or feedback from the "mass". Its a little bit tricky, you have to found your own mixture. I am using approx 30 % from the fibre - but depends on the room temperature. Sometime a little bit more. So, I agree with Dan, who restaurated the polaroid in a brilliant way. If you want to restaurate a lamp from an Artist or Designer, you should be (yourself) an Artist,also..because you have to undestand the architecture, design and philosophy of the object..
I will check your other informations tomorrow. THX
here is one link (example)
http://www.shop-014.de/jath-g89-Presto_Glasfaserspachtel__1_kg.htm

Big advantage
The bid advantag of the fiber is, that you getting a "structure". The "room" between the new structure will be filled with the polyester filling. You understand ? Its similiar to bakelit, because bakelit comes most of the time also with wasted material.

RE: Filter Position
Ok, now I understand. I had no idea, because on the crossbar (outer lef and right) are already screws to fix the crossbar (itself). If I am right, these screws fixed together with the base, giving the "needed space" for the filter. You are right its less than 1 mm. I will try on Sunday. Thank you

Mitchell Label
Label comes with "Mitchell Manufacturing CO. Chicago, Illinois" For my understanding (it looks original) it must be one of the first produced polaroid desk lamps ?! I have also seen copied labels, with wrong ID´s and missprints (probably scanned). So, I am still interested to build a good history of this lamp. If sombody has more informations, catalogs etc. pl. tell me...If you are collector or doing restauration (or both), you understand why it´s very important to have a good backup-..
http://www.1stdibs.com/furniture_item_zoom.php?id=53048&view=5

Stamp on Base
This is a macro shot. You see the base is signed with 114-2 (expect series or modell 2) together with a corporate or quatity logo ? named "DOEHLER". May sombody has informations about this ? Rgds

Luxurious Version of the executive polaroid 114
Mike,
You have a very rare 'luxurious' version with chromium. The standard executive modell was aluminium (satin finished). Today we call it brushed aluminium. You are right 9.75 - Here is the backup for the chromium version.
http://books.google.com/books?id=O0oEAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA100&lpg=PA100&dq=pola...
An other very important design book represent the polaroid desk lamp on the cover 'Design 1935-1965 - What Modern Was'
http://www.amazon.com/Design-1935-1965-Selections-Liliane-Collections/dp...
I found an interesting video, where the polaroid desk lamp 114 was a superstar at 'The World of Tomorrow' a streamline vernissage. Have a look at
Rgds chirico
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3X5rGdDD6GY

Mitchell Label
The Polaroid desk lamp 114 was designed 1937. Polaroid manufactured the lamp itself until 1939. Since 1941 it was produced by the Mitchell CO. company (acted as sub-contractor). The yellow label you pointed, is a later one. The polaroid with the silver label is one of the first versions ever produced. The following was the fm:149a modell. Hope this helps you.