Selig - Kofod Larsen? chair. Identification help  

A person at this URL claimed to have a Selig catalog that showed this chair and listed it as Kofod Larsen.  He scanned the image, but apparently only emailed it to the person making the original inquiry.  Perhaps you can still contact either of these individuals and get the image.  But, it is looking like there is strong evidence it is Kofod Larsen, in any case.
http://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories/23664-does-anyone-have-any-infor...

Thanks! First time i've seen another photo of one. I contacted them... fingers crossed. 

I rarely win lots at auction houses due to my low price ceiling (I find enough deals on craigslist and eBay). However, these two chair lots snuck under the radar recently and I was able to pick them up for very reasonable hammers.
The first is the Kofod Larsen design for Selig that this post was created for. I also tried contacting the person from the above link to see if they could send the catalog listing, but received no reply. Does anyone here have this chair in their Selig catalog?
As it arrived late last night, I have not yet had the chance to do a detailed inspection. The primary framing is not stained, and I think it might be solid walnut. If so, this would be the first solid walnut Selig chair that I have come across. The back is laminated, and the seat frame might be stained beech. I was also happy to see that a strap fragment came with the chair. This was not visible in the auction photo, only the remnant tabs though the leg slots. I can now have exact replacement straps made. There is a peg on the inside of the leg tops that holds the leather strap in the slot. I haven't yet figured out an easy way to get that peg out though. The belt straps and piano hinge allow for a little backrest angle adjustment.
The other chair lot in the auction was a Pearsall 1410-C. As luck would have it, another 1410-C was one of my first mid-century purchases, and has seen use in a few different locations throughout the house. As part of the ongoing furniture rotation strategy, I may now reupholster both in some leftover light gray Hallingdal that I have and find the pair a new home. Attached is a close-up photo (primarily for spanky) that shows the metal connection between backrest and walnut frame. This particular connection is missing some metal straps that allow the bracket to be screwed to the plywood frame.

Here's a closeup of the inside top of the back leg post. There is a brass dowel that snuggly fits into a hole that locks the leather strap in the slot. The dowel on the other side was slightly sticking out, and I was able to get a grip on it with some pliers and pull it out.
By the way, does anyone have a good brief description suggestion for this backrest design? Makes it more cumbersome to search for similar chairs when you can't properly describe the signature feature. Other Danish lounge chairs are easier with "picket backs", "paddle arms", "sled legs", etc.

Two possible ways to extract the brass pin:
1. Tear out the remaining leather strap to expose the shaft of the pin in the slot and then use a sharp, stout blade and carefully try to lever it out. Brass is softer than most knife blades so you might be able to get enough "bite" on the pin to get it to move.
2. Drill a small (1/16th") diameter hole in the end of the pin deep enough to insert either a #4 steel screw or proper size screw extractor to pull the pin. For drilling into metal it's best to dimple first with a center punch to help prevent the bit from "walking" at the start, use a new bit (either cobalt or titanium-coated made for metal), use slow speed, apply some pressure, and wear eye protection. Brass is somewhat self-lubricating when cut, so no need for oil or water.
I use brass round bar all the time for my work and have lots of scrap pieces in small diameters. If you can accurately measure the diameter, I can likely send you more than enough to make replacements. Or Online Metals is a good source.
If you don't have the right hole punch, you can successfully drill holes in belt leather by first clamping it tightly between two pieces of stiff hardwood scraps and then drill through everything. Otherwise, drill bits tend to tear up the fibers and make a mess of it. Also, leather drive belts for machinery tend to be strong and thicker than you might find if you don't have a local saddler to consult.

Thanks, tk. Those were roughly my 2nd and 3rd options,respectively going forward. For the leather, I was thinking of starting a cut on side, aligned with the slot and pin location. I think careful drilling sideways through remaining leather to avoid wood damage would be the most practical way to cut the hidden portion of the strap.
However, my first option, not yet attempted, is the least invasive. Turn the chair on its side and gently tap the opposite side of the leg top with a rubber mallet while jiggling the leather strap. Hopefully this combo will result in enough slippage of the pin where I would be able to get a grip with some pliers.
For the worst case scenario of having to drill, tap, and remove, all would not be lost, as I could easily reuse the pin by flipping it around for reinsertion. No replacement would be required, but thanks for the offer anyway.

Ace Hardware sells individual hole punches in a bunch of sizes! I got one and it was very good quality. I found that it worked best when I used a nylon cutting board under it.
cdsilva, I'm not sure why you said you were posting the photo of the Pearsall chair joint for me---does it have something to do with my rants about Pearsall quality? I am not familiar with this particular chair and I don't remember ever seeing any metal parts like that bent rod thing on other Pearsalls. Interesting. The chair reminds me a lot of this one that I redid a few years ago. It's often attributed to Finn Juhl, but then so are lots of chairs that aren't.

I will just mention that the picket back chair and sofa by Selig, designer unknown, are also solid walnut.

"does it have something to do with my rants about Pearsall quality?"
Bingo. It does not appear to be the most sturdy and durable of designs for connection between frame and backrest.

Thanks, I thought so.
The hole punche i was talking about above is called a "hollow punch" and singles are around $10 at Ace. You can buy them in sets, too. In case anyone's interested.

The drilling option worked like a charm. I picked a bit smaller than the slot width and it went easily through the disintegrating leather. Once it hit the brass pin, the twist of the bit actually kicked the pin out slightly. Therefore I was able to go straight to the pliers without having to use a blade in the slot.
Now time to focus on: 1) wood reconditioning, 2) new elastic seat straps, 3) new cushions, and 4) new leather backrest straps.

Nice chair. These don't seem to come up as often as other Larsen chairs. I bought one fifteen years ago and haven't found another one for sale since. I like the solid walnut construction because its easy to maintain opposed stained wood. I also like that this chair does not snap together And the masculine design makes this a very manly chair.

secrettruth, how do you find the adjustable back design for the chair? Do you find yourself changing it a lot, or is it too much of a hassle and you leave it in a preferred position. It's an interesting concept, but the range of the leather straps does not seem very large.
I'd be interested in seeing picture of your chair, especially the leather straps.

cdsilva, I leave the chair in a reclining position. I have a footstool that I use with this chair to lounge sort of like the Eames lounge chair feel. Not really a hassle to change the range of recline, but I don't think it was designed to be constantly messed with. It's a cool feature that gives options to the user.
I'm happy to see my chair has siblings, just wondering why there are not more examples on the net.
Also based solely on the arms I believe this truly is a Larsen design as previously mentioned by one of the other participants. What are your thoughts on the designer?
I recently had some new straps made and will post pictures of the chair when I get an opportunity.