Search result for: the-last-thing-you-aquired-
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| which brings me to this | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | whitespike | General discussion | |
| which brings me to this Where exactly did this "mod" title come into play.? It would seem it's simply a nickname for modern (as in architecture + design) but it seems to be a false assumption. I mean, do you really think that Pete Townsend or Ray Davies gave a damn about Craig Elwood and Richard Neutra? I don't think so, plus didn't this title popularize in the 60s when modern design had not only already been established in popular culture ... but had begun to be moved passed into the realm of postmodernism? Where did the bulls-eye wearing, moptop adorned vespa mods get their title? It's funny because several years ago the kids my age (yes, I'm in my mid 20s) tried to revamp the mod thing. I found it pretty funny. To me, this "mod" thing is inferior to the (assumed) originating source (modernism). Yet none of them know about modernism in regards to design. It seemed like a buzz word that no one knew the definition. Perhaps I am wrong about "mod" and it was an absolutely important movement ... convince me. It seems it was just another fad (the antithesis of modern). | |||||
| I think it depends on how... | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | brbeard | General discussion | |
| I think it depends on how... I think it depends on how you intend to use the systems. I've got an Omni, and it can be really hard to find parts for it. The brackets that were used to mount the cabinets to the poles have been known to fail (whether this is due to improper installation, or just due to the fact that the brackets are bakelite and time hasn't kind to them, I can't say). I've solidified things on my unit, just as a means of easing my mind, but the thing does make me nervous. I don't own a cado system or css, so I can't speak on those. Have you considered a String wall unit (designed by Nisse Strinning). It's not the easiest thing to find in the US, and typically commands a somewhat higher price here, but they do pop up from time to time. Unlike the Omni and Cado, the shelves are SOLID wood (veneered over white pine). It's a solid system - really high quality. I want one bad, if you can't tell 🙂 | |||||
| I only have one. | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| I only have one. One nice thing for on top, that is. I have some ivory wool blankets for warmth. I tried the duvet thing. Down is too hot, or at least the big fluffy things we had were too hot unless I opened a window in winter and let the room get down to 50 or so. After that waste of money, I made a king-size duvet filled with wool. It was nearly as hot as the down! So now I have wool blankets. Add or peel off as needed. I have also toyed for years with the idea of making a pieced or appliqued quilt with a strong graphic pattern of some sort. The problem is deciding on a design that I think I could live with for a long time (to make it worth the work). Oh, and then the work. I used to make quilts to use and display and I probably have too clear an idea of what I would be getting into. I did make a traditional king-size one 22 years ago. It was a lot of work. Probably never again. (OK, maybe if I paid someone else do the quilting part.) | |||||
| This could possibly be | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| This could possibly be English. I prefer Norwegian by a lot though. It could be Danish too. But the handle-less doors really was a very Norwegian thing; I have no idea why.. And I suspect it is going to be a very difficult piece to identify. I love seeing the hand work that Tktoo points out, but it also suggest it came from a very low volume shop, and quite possibly is custom, or semi custom (i.e. made to order), and finding documentation on that sort of thing can be very difficult. If you can find more drawers with those hand cut dovetails and that square cut stopped dado (the square end would have been hand cut with a chisel), then the odds are high you've found a piece by the same workshop. And if you are lucky such a piece might have a story with it of who made it. Or maybe it might be marked, although I wouldn't be surprised if this workshop never marked its wares. What does the bottom of the case look like? | |||||
| Yes, consider a cheap flight! | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| Yes, consider a cheap flight! I know round trips to Denmark and Norway were between $300 and $400 two or three years ago. But they might also ding you pretty hard on luggage if you bring back a huge bolt of fabric. (Fourteen yards of a very bulky fabric is a very large diameter bolt.) But either way---this is one of those situations where you have to think how you'll feel in the future. That's how I often decide whether I want to invest in a pricey upgrade. I know that if I settle for something that's not exactly what I want, I will always think about the thing that I really DID want when I look at it. Whereas if I go ahead and blow the money on the thing that I really, really want---my pleasure at having it will pretty quickly blot out the memory of having paid a lot for it. And the more time that passes, the more I think it was totally worth it. It's when I spend a lot for something I don't truly love that I never forget how much it cost. I always wish I'd gone the extra distance to get what I really wanted. Ask yourself if you will be as happy with a less bulky boucle or any other fabric, for that matter. If the answer is no, and if you can afford the extra money for duty and shipping--well then, that's your answer. | |||||
| I was asked yesterday wha... | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | LRF | General discussion | |
| I was asked yesterday wha... I was asked yesterday what is the best way to get the old foam off a Eames shell chair, and the only answer from a professional stand point is to grind it off with a grinder outside, if you are going to recover the inside of the shell it will not hurt a thing, if you are going to reuse the shell good luck it has been done, but not by me, just make sure to get all the old foam off, It will not make that much difference cause once you re sculpt and foam it will be just fine, I bought 20 shells on ebay this summer for 10 bucks each they were so filthy , I need a shower after unloading them. I did cut the covers off with a box Knife and they came off all in one. they were not foamed a lot of the lafondas are this way and these were just like the lafonda shells that cream white color that has yellowed over the years, they had no embossing of Herman miller but they were cause the shocks were the same and every thing else was, Now I sold 10 to a guy in Santa Fe and he redid them and they were beautiful, He said he used a combination of the cleaner for the showers CLR a little acetate, and paint remover, all out side with gloves, | |||||
| White Spike, I used to use "simplicity" too...Pt. 3 | 1 Relevance | 21 years ago | dcwilson | General discussion | |
| White Spike, I used to use "simplicity" too...Pt. 3 Hey, this gives me an idea: maybe there should be a "designers studio." not some degree granting school, or some avant garde firm, but a grimy little place somewhere in manhattan, or where have you, where a few wise old designers work the mental side of designers, teach a kind of sense memory thing to reconnect designers with their authentic feelings. a place where even great designers can go and just really let go and be really, really bad in front of teachers and fellow students. i recall the actors studio was full of young actors and old experienced ones that came back for tune ups. maybe there's something like this already that i don't know of. but it sure sounds like it might be a good thing for designers. authenticity is so important to creativity and good work. i don't want it to be a cult that produces a bunch of clones. just a place where serious designers and would be designers can knock the callouses off their hearts and reconnect to the spark. | |||||
| It's nice to share this with... | 1 Relevance | 17 years ago | jason sukiennik | General discussion | |
| It's nice to share this with... It's nice to share this with a group that truly appreciates them, modern design is not too popular in my neck of the woods. I won't be using them, I will probably end up selling them as I don't feel comfortable owning something this significant/valuable, especially with kids. One other thing I'd like an opinion on is the chair that was taken apart. As I mentioned the guy cut it down the middle when he removed the upholstery. The thing is, that chair may have been an earlier model as there are no screw holes threaded thru the side pieces, the ones that tighten down onto the stretchers, there are two on either side of the seat stretchers and one on either side of the back stretcher on the others. This chair only has the large screws on the four corners, nothing thru the sides. It appears that the upholstery is all that held it together. I have all of the parts including the cut piece of Saran, the cut is very clean, probably done with a razor. The wear is consistant with the other three. Would it be possible to have it woven back together? If it happens to actually be a transitional model it seems that may be worthwhile. Any thoughts? | |||||
| a suggestion | 1 Relevance | 20 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| a suggestion I recently cleaned all wool upholstery on some dining chairs with just soap suds. I put a little water and a slosh of Woolite in a plastic container and shook it until the thing was full of suds. Then using a barely-damp sponge, I worked the suds only into the fabric. Then I blotted with a big dry towel and sponged clean water onto it and blotted that. I used a lot of the suds on some bad spots and those were hard to rinse but with a lot of blotting I finally got the suds out. This worked really well on the light soiling. It was not quite enough for the really bad places. (These chairs looked like small children had sat on them for many, many meals.) You can also try Goof Off, which is essentially dry-cleaning fluid, I think. But my experience with it is that it dilutes the dirt and spreads it around more. You kinda hafta do the entire piece. Plus it's a solvent and it stinks. The good thing about wool is that it gives up dirt pretty easily. | |||||
| ha ha | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | TinyArmada | General discussion | |
| ha ha I have got to laugh. You can go piss all over modernesia if you want - because he actually sells fakes and calls them real. And we get hit up for selling some remaining birch runners because no one else can be bothered to make them? Go piss on someone else. It would be a fair hit if I was making walnut or maple - but then, I wouldn't because there would be no point. Not that the last two posters would even understand someone else's point of view - because you two are just so right about everything. You last two posters are interested in one thing only - conflict. I doubt you share your views with the current producers of pieces that are knocked off - or perhaps you can share on this thread your letters to those companies showing your "genuine" concern. But I am not biting - you started this thread and you had one thing in mind - *&%$ talking people down - it what you do most often - but terribly poorly. And thanks for the big mention on DA, you literally sold out all my runners I was selling in less than a few hours to recoup my restoration costs on my original RARs and the cost for the set we use. Thanks boys. And I do mean BOYS. | |||||
| no sale on the "ETR prototype? | 1 Relevance | 13 years ago | Eameshead | General discussion | |
| no sale on the "ETR prototype? ..so M_Dennis87 and glass artist, now is your chance to swoop in and make a low ball offer! I'm only half kidding.. Just because it did not draw a bid is not proof that it couldn't be a working model or prototype of some kind. It just means that nobody wanted to bet the minimum bid on a table that was widely advertised. And conversely, if someone WOULD have paid the minimum bid, that would not have been "proof" of anything either. I guess that is the way auctions work though. One person's interest (bid) gives the others confidence in the item, and all of that can feed on itself. All it takes is another bit of info coming out of the woodwork, like some former employee saying they remember that table, or some old studio photo of a work in progress, and there you go. But there it went, with no bids. And objectworship, "that THING" selling for 400 on ebay is a good example about the auction mentality. It's funny how difficult it is to get used to that tall base after seeing the LTR's for so many years. But then its also very easy to convince oneself that it is the real deal. Even if it is a THING. haha | |||||
| painting shells | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | LRF | General discussion | |
| I know this has been posted several times, but i just had a big batch of shell chairs painted for my new kitchen, giving my daughter the Arne Jacoben series 7 for her new house and I am going to make up a set of Eames shell chairs Whitefiberglass White vinyl with White Crimp cord, The old set was a dirty dirty white instead of sending to a auto body shop we sanded them and used a airless gun, and it turned out great but the key to the whole thing, looking really good is use poly after they have cured for a day. They need to be completely dry this makes it harder so they do not chip. some of the old flex showed through even better than i thought. I think almost anyone can do this, if they have a airless sprayer, just let it dry, I will post a picture when i get my camera, any questions feel free to ask. This is not a solicitation for any business just informational. The cool thing is you can do any color you want now i am trying to get a order on colored crimp cords made in Germany, That would be a cool look. | |||||
| ABS | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | koen | General discussion | |
| ABS ...or Acrylonitrile,Butadien,Styrene is a fine material,especially the one used by Kartell but it is very sensitive to solvents, so i would not try to remove the stains with any solvent. Plastics, with very few exceptions (PET a.o.) absorbes the volatile components of markers and the likes, so the colours might affect the plastic wall beyond the surface. The nice thing with A.B.S. is that it can be polished back to it's original state. Some of the suitable polishing agent have been mentioned already but anything that polishes acrylic will do (Acrylonitrile is the main component of A.B.S.)P.M.M.A, Polymethylmetacrylate is not the same but behaves in a similar way. The only thing to watch out for is too much friction, so hand polishing is safer. Waterproof sandpaper (200) is a good start if you want to take off major color marks,afterwards you can go back to finer grades before polishing. If you are handy with a razor blade as a scraping tool, that will work well to. But stay away from solvents! Good luck! | |||||
| I should add that the skis on | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Spanky | Identification | |
| I should add that the skis on this thing are solid teak timber - 3.5" x 2" x 82", one along the front, one along the back. | |||||
| I would like to say that my | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | raulduke | Identification | |
| I would like to say that my chairs did nothing to any of you. Not a thing. And I still think they're handsome albeit dishonest. Kind of like the whole first family. | |||||
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