Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| I am sure someone somewhere | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| I am sure someone somewhere can easily, and immediately tell the difference between spruce, pine, fir, hemlock, etc but i find it often hard to do so. I can tell you that it has tight grain and I don't see any knots, so it is quality wood they used there. | |||||
| Thank you, I would not say | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Chairwoman | General discussion | |
| Thank you, I would not say they are scratchy, still have an amount of shine. Are you saying then that nothing will bring the color back, not even sanding? Would you think the color change would be right through then? They have no cracking etc, look in good shape apart from color difference. | |||||
| One way to tell the | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| One way to tell the difference between coated leather and uncoated leather is applying water. If it soaks in then the leather is uncoated. If if beads, then it is coated. On old leather, the coating may be worn away. And note the leather care instructions for uncoated leather mention that water can cause blotches. Vegetable tanned leather is not very water resistant, so enough water will cause the leather to darken and harden. This is why the instructions say never to soak the surface, and to wipe down the entire surface. In other words, you are minimi ... | |||||
| I think it was actually | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Troy_Aleksander | General discussion | |
| ... I'm inclined to believe that these are circa 1960s. The grain is definitely black and when I compare against yours, they appear to be very similar. I mean the simple test we conducted was to put them next to a set of teak Kai Kristiansens (that we are fortunate enough to own) and the difference is significant. Anywho, I'm off to search more about this but welcome any other comments! | |||||
| I have been down this road a | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| ... it will have UV blocking particles in it. They will darken the wood. A few applications will make it a bit darker. There are also tinted 'Danish oils.' They will basically do the same thing. There are also neutral oil finishes. You might even try getting a bit clever about it, and apply a darkening oil to the light surfaces, and a neutral oil to the dark surfaces. Different oils will have different sheens, so you might notice that while you are doing this, but you can put a coat over the top at any time to equalize the sheen. Just make sure you wipe ex ... | |||||
| Read this about finishing | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| Read this about finishing wood for outdoors: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/difference-between-spar-varnish... The steel frames are going to be very hard to clear coat. Especially since you are in a wet environment, and possible close enough to the coast to have salt in the air. You have two choices basically: extremely high maintenance chairs that you re-coat with finish perhaps every two weeks to two months, or you faux paint the chairs to look like bare metal which will last for a while. Penetrol is candidate for the constant maintenance finish. The faux steel finish is probably antithetheical to the wabi-sabi effect you want, and it would be hard to do. See here: http://www.artmetal.com/blog/martinsteelstructure/2011/03/exterior_rust_... The big challenge with a clear coat finish is that there can be no UV blockers like you can have in opaque paint, so the UV light destroys the finish itself very quickly. The steel tubes have not yet rusted away to nothing from the inside out, have they? | |||||
| I think it makes a lot of | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| ... you end up with a strand that is less than the necessary width for the seat as a whole to fit perfectly in the frame. One strand won't make a significant difference, but it's never just one strand and they can add up to a strand or two in width! It's just frustrating. Cane can't be squished a bit tighter the way paper cord can (i mean, over many inches you can usually cram another strand or two of paper cord in if you need to, to complete a pattern). I love how the variations in color look, and the occasional spots from nodes and natural blemishes, but t ... | |||||
| I'm slow this afternoon. Is | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | gropius | General discussion | |
| I'm slow this afternoon. Is this before or after you modified it? Pics of both would help understand your question. I thought sideboard and credenza were different names for the same thing? Are you saying there is a difference in height? did you just chop off the legs? | |||||
| It is not an uncommon screw | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| ... as a #10-24 x 2 in. Internal Hex Socket Cap Screw: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-10-24-x-2-in-Internal-Hex-Socket-C... The only difference is that the one you want has a black phosphate coating, not a zinc coating. Either color is easy enough to find in the USA. You might need to order one from the USA if you can't find it where you live. | |||||
| Does anyone know if it makes | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | midcenturygrl | General discussion | |
| Does anyone know if it makes a difference in value between the two if they are in the US? | |||||
| Congrats on these fun chairs, | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | kin1117 | General discussion | |
| ... and mention the identical nature of the 2 chairs with the exception of the labels. That way, buyers can visually tell there's no difference. I'm not as familiar with Nelson design, but with Eames, many pieces no longer carry their lables but it's obvious enough to people what's authentic and what's fake. I've seen some really poorly executed coconut chairs on eBay so hopefully people can tell pretty easily. Good luck. | |||||
| Post #3 photo #6 shows the | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| Post #3 photo #6 shows the end grain on the top edge of the side piece of staceyniel's specimen. Post #10 photos #1 and #2 show side grain (edge banding) in the same location, and wood that is visibly veneer next to the edge banding. Surprising difference. The veneered version is a much safer alternative for the cabinetmaker, as a slab of teak that wide can move a lot, and cause all sorts of problems. And I don't think that these double sideboards are made by the same company as the Tibergaard Nielsen secretary you posted. Even though the identical handles ... | |||||
| So! i tested a blunted nail | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| ... sure it made much difference---it took a bit of doing to get the overlaps in the wraps just right. Actually I'm not totally happy with it yet but I think it will work out. I did have to drill one new hole in the bottom and will have to do another, I think---the problem being that none of the strands of cane that I have are long enough to span the distance between some of these holes! At least none of the strands I've pulled so far---it's pretty hard to pick out the longest from a full bunch. But I just realized that the original holes had to have been dr ... | |||||
| I think glycerin is more of a | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| I think glycerin is more of a lubricant so that the cane slips through the weave more easily as you're working...? I wove a traditional cane seat a really long time ago and put glycerin in the soaking water as instructed---couldn't really tell the difference except that my hands got sticky after awhile! csilva, thanks--but I am quite sure the ends are nailed, and I'm sure there's some trick to nailing them without splitting the cane. I just can't figure out what it is. Drilling might work, but we are talking less than a 1mm bit here! And drilling would ad ... | |||||
| This is clearly not an | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| ... who want the real thing but can't afford it and are willing to settle for a cheap substitute that looks just like it, at least to the casual observer. But vintage chairs that are similar but with their own look have a place in the design world, at least in my opinion. And this one is very different---the arm rests are really long, the back section is taller than most, the two connectors between head and back are really different than on Plycrafts and Seligs, and there's that huge tilt lever on the side. I used to track these type of chairs (and used to own ... | |||||
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