Search result for: the-last-thing-you-aquired-
Page 490 / 490
Prev
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Great photos! thanks! | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| Great photos! thanks! I agree with Leif said about the hiding properties of the texture of the fabric, but do you realize that the only seams---aside from the perimeter--- are the two darts where the back curves into the seat? Well, and the ones under the seat but they're very visible. And ok, two short ones on the outside where the seat edge meets the back, which I noticed after looking at pics of other chairs online. With only that little bit of stitching to do, I would just hand sew it using a ladder stitch with short enough stitches so that you don't get that wavy pattern, which would make it noticeable. Boucle is best at hiding this because the randomly loopy texture pretty much obscures the grain (the lengthwise and crosswise threads) of the fabric, but it you will get the effect with most texturey fabrics. Avoid smooth, flat weaves. Also, avoid very directional patterns---and actually the crosshatch stuff that's on there now is fairly directional. But it's only those two darts you have to worry about so it's not such a big deal. I think the reason you aren't seeing seams is because there aren't really any to see! OK--the welt cord. That looks like a fairly stiff type. I suspect that it's the reason the fabric is so worn at the corners. The welt cord needs some substance to it but it also can't be drastically different in firmness from the fabric or it will end up wearing on the fabric. The fabric will be between a rock and a hard place! It should be padding, not an extension of the hard chair frame. There are two main types of welt cord---really soft cotton welt that is used mostly in slipcovers and throw pillows, and stiffer stuff for upholstery. The stiff stuff can range from not too firm up to solid extruded vinyl. I don't think you need anything too extreme, just firm enough to get that nice clean line around the cushion and the chair edge. The fiber content looks like one of the early acrylics or maybe rayon. It's not wool or linen or cotton. The foam is latex if you're getting orange powder out of the chair. It oxidizes from the surface inward and most of it may still very well be soft. But eventually it'll all be hard and crumbly. Most upholsterers remove the old fabric parts and use them as rough patterns when cutting the new fabric, so don't worry about that. What you do need to worry about is getting the same thickness of padding! Many, many upholsterers seem to go with whatever is most often used in conventional furniture---usually an overstuffed look. This is not correct for most mid-century modern furniture. You need to make it VERY clear that you want the same thickness in every part of the chair that is on there now. It's easy enough to figure the thickness without undoing a thing--just take a long upholstery needle and poke it into the chair at a given point, taking care that it's perpendicular to the surface. Stop as soon as you hit the frame or other firm surface. Mark the chair surface on the needle and pull the needle out and measure. Write it directly on the fabric if you want. Foam comes in 1/4", 1/2" 1", 2", 3", 4", 5", and 6" thicknesses and anything in between can be made just by gluing two or more layers together---so don't let anyone tell you that it's not possible to get 2 1/2" of foam on the back, or whatever. It is. It will take some skill to get the same look on the seat cushion as the original. The original foam was mostly made in a mold. I'd probably start a small, thin foam layer for the center, sandwiched between two 1/2" foam layers that are wider and longer, which then gets sandwiched between two more layers of thin foam, etc., until the right width and length are attained. The inside edges of each layer of foam would have to be thinned down a lot with a razor blade so that the finished cushion tapers smoothly to the edges. That would be one way to do it, anyway. If you start out with 3" thick foam and try to sculpt it down to 1/2" at the edges with that really long taper, it'll be an exercise in frustration. | |||||
| RE: Really dissatisfied with new Eames Lounge Chair - other owners' experiences appreciated | 1 Relevance | 7 years ago | davidhunternyc | General discussion | |
| For the last few months I have been doing research on what version of the Eames Lounge Chair to purchase, not for me but for my friend who is new to modernist furniture. Back in 2012 I spent many months researching Eames Lounge Chairs for myself but decided to pass on purchasing one because I don't like Palisander rosewood and Herman Miller was charging too much money in my opinion. Adjusted for inflation a new lounge chair and ottoman should be about $5,500. But now I was on a mission to find the perfect lounge chair for my friend. At first he loved the tall version of the chair with white Edelman leather at the Herman Miller store but, after all the boxes were checked, they wanted $8750 for the chair and ottoman. This is crazy expensive. We inquired about the Palisander rosewood and asked if there were some way to choose the shell for the chair. Some shells are yellowish. Some are dull. Some chairs have more dynamic surfacing. For $8750 we should have some kind of say in terms of what we got but no, this could not be done. I escalated the matter to the factory in Michigan and again Herman Miller said this wasn't possible. Really? So it's a crap shoot? You could get a nice shell or you might get an ugly one. My friend and I walked away. Chapter 2. The following weekend my friend and I drove to Wyeth in Sagaponack to see original Eames Chairs from long ago. We saw several versions but our favorite was a Generation 1 Eames Lounge Chair with 3 bolt arms, down feathers and boot glides on the ottoman. The thing about these older chairs is that they don't photograph well. Crushed cushions with worn out leather just doesn't look good in photos but in person these older chairs look spectacular. They are more comfortable to sit in too. The later chairs with thick foam place the body higher from the seat bottom and forward from the back. Your body sits more upright and it's not nearly as comfortable as the older chairs. Despite the high prices at Wyeth the price for the Generation 1 chair was more reasonable than I thought. The customer service at Wyeth was exemplary. Chapter 3. So now my friend and are convinced not to get a new chair. We want an historic chair with patina. This last weekend we sat in a Generation 2 chair and we both loved it. It's from the early 60's and it's stuffed with feathers and foam. It cradled us like the Generation 1 chair to a slightly less degree but it was still very comfortable. To clarify, the foam and feathers is encased in a white cotton or linen fabric first and then stuffed into the leather. I was surprised to see the above photo of the new Herman Miller chair with foam sticking out the button. Another benefit of buying a real vintage piece is that they are more beautiful. The patina on the leather and real Brazilian rosewood shells isn't something that can be replicated today. There are plenty of vintage chairs out there in the world and they were better made. Unlike the new chairs you can see the shells before you purchase. Unless it is a Generation 1 chair the Generation 2 & 3 chairs are less expensive than the new chairs from Herman Miller. It baffles my mind because it should be the other way around. Vintage chairs are qualitatively better than the new chairs but consumers are ignorant. With a vintage chair you'll have to check the shock mounts and there might be some repairs that need to be done but it isn't too difficult to resource. Chapter 4. Screw Herman Miller. Buy vintage. Attachment: Screen-Shot-2020-02-08-at-9.04.50-PM.png | |||||
| Don't thank me, I am thanking | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | therye | General discussion | |
| Don't thank me, I am thanking Lief and this site for being two for two on helping with chairs (the other were Perttu Mentula) that I was stumped with. What a great site for designer furniture. Thank you so much Lief, you and the others around here are a wonderful asset to these boards, I read all the ID posts. The following is my really long story, don't know if anyone cares, but I feel it is the least I can contribute to the board. So, here is my story for this chair. A listing for an estate sale through a guy I like cause he does a lousy job marketing popped up on tuesday and I noticed a Penguin Chair, and what I was pretty sure was a Milo Baughman Curved Walnut Wide Barrel Back Lounge for Thayer Coggin. There were also two eames LCMs from the 90's I would say. THIS CHAIR WAS NOT LISTED!!! Now I have been really into MCM for about 7 months. Reading these boards and learning as much as possible. Getting most of my stuff of Craigslist with most of it being non-designer.. I have been going to this guys auctions for about three years, but there has never been much MCM. I was doing research about two weeks ago (memorizing 1stdibs and live auction listings) when I saw Milo's curved walnut lounge and thought, that is probably my favorite Milo Baughman chair design. I have also always liked the Penguin. So I wasn't missing this auction. Problem was my budget. I can only really spend about $800 MAX!!! I'm thiniking no way I get the Penguin and the Baughman for that all week! No way! Maybe I will try to get the Eames for like $200 for the pair and the Penguin. I can afford that, probably. Just so happens that it was pouring rain most of the day. All the furniture got covered in plastic about an hour after I got there and the 113 was back in the the corner near the front of the house next to a Thonet moulded plywood chair. Nobody hardly paid it any attention. The skies cleared and they started auctioning furniture. The thonet went to a guy who plopped it down on the side walk and started watching the biding. I got the 113 a few items later for $140 and joined him. So I sat in style as the bidding went through all the mid century modest stuff, then the Penguin came up. A guy have seen at these auctions bid me up to $200, but stopped there. After the biddings over he walks by where Im sitting says "Kofod Larsen". Thanks buddy, got it. A long wait for the Milo, but I sit and watch, a lot of stuff I normally would bid on. A Kip Stewert Decleration armchair sels for $185!!! DAMN way more than I would of paid for it. The Eames sell for $225 a piece!! DAMN Not looking good for the Milo. So the guy I'm sitting with who has only bought Thonet Moulded Plywood chairs up to this point says to me, I just wish they would get to the this row, pointing to the row of furntiure that included the Milo chair. I said yeah there is some nice stuff there, mostly in jest. He says I only want one thing. I said yeah me too. With a sigh, and we both laughed. When it gets to the Milo chair the bidding was hot up to about $250, and at $350 the last guy (same guy that got the Eames chairs) paused, I bid $375, and he shook his head and walked away. The guy who is bidding comes over to me and says, "I think thats Adrian Pearsall" I said, "Nope its Milo Baughman" then pulled up the 1stdibs listing with two for $8,000 and he just shook his head and said "Well it probably built better anyways". I had done it $720 I had gotten the Penguin and the Milo, with an unknown beauty in the 113. It really was a triumphant feeling! Now I plan on selling the 113 (its too danty for my rugged family) for enough to keep the the Penguin and Milo Barrel for free! So thanks to everyone on here who answers questions and helps us who are striving to gain a knowledge base! Especially thanks to you Lief!!!! | |||||
| Replacing Cord on Danish Side Chairs - 3rd edition | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| First edition thread hereDiscussion continued hereCaleb James' excellent videos on weaving a rush style seat of paper cord: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=az5fjeRdt3A (that's part 1 of six) Racecar said: I wasn't sure where to start. The caning shop in berkeley is just down the street from work and they have classes, so it's been on my mind to try it. The chord is decent, but I don't think it's original. There's a bunch of cardboard shoved between the two layers. My guess is that it was done by a previous owner to firm up the seat. I'd be surprised if it left the factory that way. The chord is tied together in at least ten different places, which seems kind of sloppy. Good tip about the soap flakes, I'll try it. The pattern on the chair I picked up is different from the chair in the poster (that I got from Carl Hansen & Søn at a design fair in LA). The chord meets at a point in the center on mine (and others I've seen 1st dibs that claimed to be original), but most of them meet with a 'line' in the middle, like the poster. I wasn't sure if it would have been made both ways or if that's a sign that it's been redone. I'll repost your photos for clarity's sake.OK, first--The Caning Shop sells very good quality cord and authentic Danish L nails so I'm inclined to think their classes are probably worthwhile. If you get frustrated trying to do this yourself, that may be a good option--or if it just sounds like too much for a starter project. I did a bunch of the much easier Moller chairs before tackling a rush-style weave in paper cord and even then I had to back away from it for awhile. But that was before Caleb James' videos on youtube, which clued me in to the importance of a few essential things.Anyway! The cardboard between the cord layers is a thing done with fiber rush seats, for "padding"---maybe to give them more the look of authentic rush? I think the seat on your chair was probably redone now that I look at it more closely. The diagonal lines are pretty straight but they're not quite as straight as what you see on an original Wishbone seat, and you're right, the lines should not all meet in the center. It's not a bad job at all, though. The number of knots is legit.There's a video on youtube of a Danish guy named Benny weaving this kind of seat in a Fritz Hansen store in Denmark (I think Fritz Hansen anyway) and he uses very short lengths and just knots as needed. You have to pull the entire strand through the weave at each corner. I load up a shuttle with a ton of cord to start, usually enough to get me to where the opening in the center of the seat is too small to get the shuttle through, which is also close to where you can't use a shuttle anyway because you have to start threading the cord through the slot at the center back. But loading the shuttle takes time.Benny can do an entire seat in 45 minutes---WAY less time than it takes me. But the shuttle keeps the cord from getting tangled so it's worth it to me. I don't like how the knots are placed so close to the center on yours, though. If they're close to the rails, there's more room between them and the top layer of cord and less chance they'll ever poke through. | |||||
| I'm not familiar with these | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Spanky | Repair | |
| I'm not familiar with these chairs but I've done a lot of upholstery repair. Unless there's something unusual in the way these are made, here's what you need to do: 1. Remove chair from frame and remove tacks or staples from the cambric, which is the thin fabric that covers the bottom. It might well get damaged during this process Then remove tacks or staples from the edges of the fabric or leather--use a tack puller or staple removing tool (the kind for upholsterers, not office workers) to do this, not some random screw driver or whatever. Do not gouge or tear the upholstery material! 2. Snip the button tufting cord and remove buttons. Note how they were tied underneath (the camera is your best friend here--photograph EVERYTHING! Later you won't remember how it's done.) 3. Peel back the fabric/leather. It looks to me like the sides of the seat have welt trim, which might mean more staples/tacks to remove. You have to strip off the entire seat to get to the webbing support under the foam. Be careful with the welt, it's stretchy and but can tear if you pull on it. Pin notes to it to mark front and sides. 4. When all tacks/staples have been removed, peel back the seat fabric and remove the foam. If it's hard and crunchy, it is latex. You could replace it with urethane foam but latex is more comfortable and of course it's almost always preferable to replace old material with the same type originally used, at least on better quality furniture. Latex does cost more, though. But worth it. 5. Remove the elastic webbing, carefully undoing whatever fastens it down. It's most likely Pirelli rubber webbing (tan in color, probably dry and cracked and lacking in stretch). Replace with the same type of webbing: attach to the rear of the frame first off the roll (do NOT measure and cut all strips before starting, because you need extra to hold on to while stretching it), stretch it, fasten. Cut with razor, do the next strip. I gauge tautness by twanging the first strip and matching the pitch with the second but you can also just mark them with a pencil once you know how much the first one is stretched. Do the side-to-side strips the same way but weave them (if woven) before anchoring the first end. 6. Replace padding materials. Fasten fabric to the seat frame. It should fit exactly the same way if you used the same thickness of foam. If it was stapled, you should use a pneumatic upholstery stapler, NOT an electric or manual staple gun. They don't fire staples in all the way on most hardwood and the staplers are heavier gauge (not good). You can also just do cut steel upholstery tacks but do get good quality ones and also get a $5 tack hammer from the hardware store, way better than a claw hammer. 7. Reattach buttons in the same way as they were originally. Use button tufting cord; it's made to last. Get the tension the same on each button. Find a video on how to thread the upholstery needle with the button and how to insert it and all that. It's a visual thing, not hard to explain but way easier to understand with a visual. 8. Replace cambric and fasten the same way as before. Most cambric these days is a nonwoven synthetic. If that's what was on your furniture originally, great. If not, look for woven cotton cambric. If you can't find it, woven cotton sold as quilt fabric is the closest substitute. Stretch it evenly and staple or tack the folded edges as neatly as possible. If this sounds too complicated---and it does require a certain level of skill---have a pro do it. Just be sure to specify that you want the exact same look that the chairs had originally (bring pics), do NOT strip off any material before taking them in (so that the upholster can see how these were done and just copy it). Most upholsterers do not stock latex foam but it can be ordered online cut to size (google it). This is not a quick project. If you're inexperienced but super meticulous and methodical in general, you might be able to a pretty good job of it. But if you have doubts, don't attempt it. I've seen lots of DIY upholstery that is sub par, and with good furniture you want it to be just right, whether it's you who's going to be living with it for the next however many years or if you're doing it in hopes of getting a better price when selling. | |||||
| So here is what you going to | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| So here is what you going to discover if you try to sand these yourself. You will start on a rear leg, and discover that it gets far darker than the front leg. So you will suddenly realize you have to sand the whole chair. Then you will realize you can't sand the areas around the upholstery (it appears to be leather!) and you will realize you will have to remove all the upholstery. So let's say you skip ahead to the top of the chair, and the you will realize that you need to invest in a spine sander to get the inside corners of the backrests cross bars. That costs a few hundred euro ad the title sanding tubes are not cheap, and you need a lot of them, because the rosewood gums up the surface fast. Maybe here realize that the oil and shellac or lacquer underneath it is aso gumming up your sandpaper and yo are going through it at an alarming rate. So you realize you need to strip the chairs before you sand. So you decide to take the upholstery off so you won't get stripper on it, because you need to take it off to sand anyway. You reader it is really hard to pull staples with a screwdriver, so you go to the upholstery supply place and buy a staple remover. Fortunately it is only a few euros, but there are are 4 different kinds, so you buy them all. And yo start removing staples a bit faster now, but it is very hard to do it without tearing the leather. And then the leather tears. So you remember the leather that the upholstery supply place has. It only costs $400 for a good cowhide, and you figure you need made two. So you've cut all the upholstery off now, beautiful vintage leather, but it's got to go. And you are stripping the chairs but there are so many surfaces, and it is not all coming off uniformly. And it is taking forever. You wonder if the citrus based 'safe' stripper is the maybe too weak. So you buy the chemical gloves, and the methylene chloride strong stripper, and the abrasive refinishing pads. It only costs maybe $10 euros per chair. And it is goes well except when you get the stripper on your arm, and get a chemical burn that takes 3 weeks to disappear. Don't do that again. Finally the chair is all stripped, so now you can get back to coarse sanding! And you notice that your sander technique is not so good, especially now that the wood is coming off faster. You are rounding points, and edges, and curving flat areas. You are just happy you have not completely destroyed the chair you were working on, but it was a close thing. Another second and you'd have made the horn into a stump. So you wisely decide to spend about a week practicing on random wood shapes with your new sanding tools, so that you've got the right light touch to sand your chairs. And now the chair is finally rough sanded, and almost black everywhere. (Please tell me you like them in black). S yo start sanding finer and finer, and each time you realize the wood is so smooth, and you are still leaving scratches everywhere. And you realize you have to sand the entire chair, every scratch mark, with this grit, before you go up to the next, because it just takes forever with that one. And you realize that this rosewood is so hard and smooth and fine grained you are going to have to sand to 600 grit to get all the visible scratch marks out. And it only takes a week, and you've bought $100 euros worth of sand paper, and sanding cylinders. And when you got to 600 grit, you still were not satisfied until you had sanded it with 0000 steel wool, and now the wood almost glows, and it does not even have a finish on it. But you are not going to put an oil finish on it, because I just explained that oil finish on rosewood may not dry, because the anti-oxidants in the oil in the wood seep out. So you go to the hardware store, and buy de-waxed shellac. And you put it on. And the chair is a steaky mess, because the shellac dries the very second you put it in the chair. So you get the steel wool and sand every single streak out of the shellac. And you put on another coat of shellac since you've sanded through it all over the place. And a few more times. Now you can finally oil. My goodness, wasn't that fast. That's it! Now you cut out a new piece of cowhide, oh, but you need a stapler. And you read here that the manual stapler, and the electric staplers aren't so good. So you go buy a pneumatic stapler, and an air compressor. Only costs $200 euros. And you need jute webbing, and cotton batting, and a bit of foam. $10 euros per chair. And you discover that putting the leather on there stretched just right is not so easy, so you go buy 10 chairs you don't care about and some cheap cloth just to practice doing it right, only cost $50. Because practicing on leather wood cost a lot of money. And you are finally done, and the chairs don't match the table at all anywhere. But the chairs look great! And it's one cost you 3 thousand euros and 6 months of your life. And amazingly you did not ruin your chairs because now you see other chairs done by 'professionals' that look terrible, and you realize that you were extraordinary lucky about 1000 times that you didn't destroy your chairs. While you consider your options why don't you stick that one leaf out in the sun, somewhere it won't get rained upon and not behind a window, because they block ultraviolet light. See how fast it lightens up. | |||||
| And more, from an article in | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Spanky | Off topic | |
| And more, from an article in the Washington Post, which I'm sure hurt little Donald's feelers and may be partly behind his decision to ban them from covering his political events. I have bolded my faves. 1. The complex superstructure that is Donald Trump’s hair 2. A masterpiece whose guiding principal is a heroic desire to completely conceal the forehead 3. A thin sheath of perfectly placed strands 4. An abandoned nest 5. A hairspray labyrinth 6. It appears to be a comb-over, but, incredibly, it doesn’t arrive from any direction. You cannot stare at The Donald’s hair very long. It’s like staring into the sun. 7. A decomposing ear of corn 8. A corn husk doll cursed by a witch 9. An ambitious corn dog that escaped from the concession stand at a rural Alabama fairground, stole an unattended wig, hopped a freight train to Atlantic City and never looked back 10. The furrowed wake that a speedboat would leave on a lake of orange sherbet 11. A Mobius combover 12. [His hair] resembles the behavior of alpha chimps who, as primatologist Frans de Waal reports in ‘Chimpanzee Politics,’ make their hair stand on end in order to look large. 13. The male equivalent of a push-up bra 14. An upside-down Twitter logo 15. A mullet that died in some horrific accident 16. Carefully crafted helmet of fine gossamer, woven into a precise immovable template 17. Golden fleece 18. Dyed the nascent yellow of a baby chick 19. A hue best described as ‘Cigarette-stained-teeth blond’ 20. The patriotic shade of amber waves of grain 21. A ginger forest 22. Orange fizz 23. Burnt Cheetos auburn 24. The same unplaceable tinge as the marble in the Trump Tower lobby 25. The ginger flank of Trump’s hair was plastered firm down at the sides, and a side parting had emerged. The back was long, straggly, and running free. 26. Orange and matted on the sides, and now white/silver, wispy, swept back, defying the laws of physics and practicality on top 27. More flyaways than LAX 28. More soft-serve swirl than Dairy Queen 29. An aggressive cowlick gone rogue 30. An unruly shrub 31. An unfortunate situation 32. This multidirectional comb-over is so complex that even engineers marvel at its structure. Resistant to wind and rain, NASA has looked at it as a possible Shuttle Shield. 33. The roll of sod that never looked quite right in your yard 34. Farcical follicle humiliation 35. Combed like he’s televangelist Benny Hinn 36. Like Biff, from “Back to the Future” 37. Like Lucille Ball 38. Like a troll doll 39. Dyson Airbladed 40. Norwegian bunch grass 41. Mexican feather grass 42. A South American Flannel caterpillar 43. The hair of 33 Barbie dolls 44. A hairpiece come to life 45. It is a flourish. On top, it flows forward to the forehead where it does a fine, serpentine U-turn, while along the sides it sweeps over the tops of his ears like rows of cirrus clouds. 46. [It] appears to be courting the women’s vote, combed on the left side of his head in the shape of a vagina. 47. A pancake hat 48. An omelet 49. Bread at the end of the loaf 50. A wavy slant that seems to defy gravity 51. White roots and light filaments wrapped and wrapped around the back of his head 52. An airboat skimming the Everglades 53. The halo of meticulously crafted bulls— 54. A Kangol hat made of spun sugar 55. What appears to be Daniel Boone’s mythical coonskin cap 56. A pumpkin having a nervous breakdown 57. Bolted down like a storm cellar door 58. Decomposing pumpkin pie inhabited by vicious albino squirrels 59. A viscous, bird-killing oil slick 60. Fine strands of gold-plated fur 61. A horse’s mane blowing in the wind 62. A dead skunk 63. A radioactive skunk. 64. A dead squirrel 65. A mutant squirrel 66. A beaver’s tail 67. A very well-behaved guinea pig 68. A badger sitting atop his head 69. An actual, live woodchuck 70. A dishrag that on closer inspection is alive with maggots 71. It may look like a dead gerbil, but it actually advertises both his vanity (hence, his humanness) and his imperviousness to ridicule. It would qualify as the most original Washington haircut since Ronald Reagan went prematurely orange. 72. A dead, furry lobster 73. Diffused, unsavory salmon 74. Artless 75. Banjo strings 76. That thing 77. That construction 78. That curious thatch, which he wears longer than most men of his generation who are not in a ’70s revival band. 79. A small straw hut 80. Wisps of insulation material 81. Best left to an architectural critic 82. A face on the top of his head. A twin, all but absorbed in the womb. The eyes move. The lips quiver. 83. Buttery-fluffed 84. Souffle’d 85. Miraculous, restorative-powered 86. Epic and luxuriant mop 87. Billowing golden pompadour 88. Weird piece of velcro 89. Strange phenomenon 90. A glowing orb presiding over the night’s spectacle 91. A creation consisting of two different parts, like an Ikea shelf 92. A comb-over from hell 93. The new wave of comb-overs, [which] drops the lie and the shame and just asks onlookers to marvel at the scale, vision and depth of the comb-over you’ve just created. 94. The grotesque, exhibitionist, peacocky mutation that adorns his skull 95. The Trump Crosshatch (TM) 96. A mound of cotton candy 97. A bridal-level updo 98. A blow-dried confection 99. An inter-dimensional, gravity-warping vortex 100. “Hair” | |||||
Page 490 / 490
Prev
If you need any help, please contact us at – info@designaddict.com