Search result for: the-last-thing-you-aquired-
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Weighing in...part 1 | 1 Relevance | 20 years ago | Olive | General discussion | |
| Weighing in...part 1 Hi Mark, sorry to get to this at the end of the story, it seems that you've had quite a spin on the ol' forum today. We DA types really do loveto give our thoughts on space and design. Here are my thoughts: 1. Ite has been right on the money with all his/her comments. Robert and Spanky have given some good pointers too. 2. Spanky's point on color cohesion and Robert's comments about art are really good. 3. Your place reads a bit like a who's who of mid-cent icons which leaves you little space for your personality. I'd say edit out at least 1/3 of what you have and simplify the furnishings while also adding in some individuality. The space seems cluttered and that is oh so not modernist. (Except for Charles and Ray) 4. As an example of individualism...I have lusted after an eames stool to sit beside my Saarinen womb chair but have choked on the price. Whilst in Santa Fe this summer I found a Pueblo indian chile pepper morter that had a very similar size and profile and it is now sitting upside down and holding my tea cup. Cost $45, Style: priceless and the credit card ad says. You need more Mark in your room quirky things help do that. 5. Color is a good thing...throwing your elementary school poster paints at your home is not. You need to tone down and reign it is a bit. Work with a color consultant or a designer to define a palette for your walls/floors/hardscape and another one for your soft furnishings. Then stick to it. I'd recommend a neutral envelope to the space and bringing the color in with furnishings and art. | |||||
| The Eames Lounge was designed | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | Eameshead | General discussion | |
| The Eames Lounge was designed from the inside out. THAT was a radical idea. That is why it has become ubiquitous. Radical ideas are never boring. Unless you just want to reduce things down only to the level of the mere "look" of a design, and separate it from the REAL story. What solidifies the Lounge's place in the the history of design is it's innovation, it's technoloy, in relation to it's own time. The "look" comes WAY after that. (I find it exquisitely beautiful by the way!) The beautiful complexity of the relationships of the major wood shell forms in the Eames Lounge was considered and refined with the utmost attention to visuals-- but only AFTER function was put first and foremost- and on a level of rigor unseen before in the history of furniture design. Now that is "beauty". It is a sad day when the success of a design causes people to forget WHY it was so successful in the first place. It is important to remember that one's taste is a diffferent thing than ones ablity to respect the integrity and greatness of any given design. It's perfectly acceptable to not like the look, but it's pointless to remove a design from its context, and then still assess it on an aestheic level. A huge part of the beauty of this chair is the IDEA. It becomes a symbol AFTER that. And soon, people start drooling over the look, and eventually forget about anything but how sexy the curves are (or are not) as the chair becomes an icon. I agree with objectworship's statement above. Ideas have to go beyond "I like it" or "I hate it" based on some blurry reasoning having more to do with a reaction to a design's over- popularity than anything substantive. | |||||
| Hi Ben, | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Eameshead | General discussion | |
| Hi Ben, If this is a 3rd generation Zenith shell, there should be three very small raised dots that form a small triangle dead center between the four shock mounts on the reverse of the shell. (This photo does not allow us to see under the cross bars of the H base, where the dots should be.) No embossments, no raised letters or other markings at all are indeed consistent with 3rd generation Zenith shells. So it probably is. The base looks like a 1957 (or later) H base. This combination of base and shell is possible for a 3rd gen Zenith shell, but a bit less likely, so there here is a chance that the base and shell are not an original pairing. IF the shell does have three dots on the underside, it would be possible that the shell was around 1955 or 56 and the base is 1957, and it is an original pairing. Making things a bit more complicated is that there are boot glides on this base, which should have the later white plastic glides. It might be that the white glides broke off and the dealer replaced them with boot glides. (Boot glides are usually associated with approximately 1953-1955 bases, so IF these boot glides are original to the base, the base would be a very early H base, even before the 1956 H bases which had rubber and metal swivel glides.) The main thing is look for the three dots in the fiberglass. The rest is just supporting evidence. Also, the shell appears so new and shiny that it looks a little TOO good-- so you might also ask if it has been recoated with penetrol. If it has been recoated, I would wait for one that has not been refinished. If not recoated, it is in extremely good shape. Hope this helps | |||||
| My daughter and I went to a | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| My daughter and I went to a big salvage/resale shop in the city today. She parked the car and said she had to make a work call first but then would catch up with me. I called dibs on any Danish furniture "Not that there will be any because that place has pickers and dealers crawling through it all day long" (it's huge). She reminded me of four Moller church chairs she picked up there for about $55/ea recently. I said it was just luck. I wouldn't see anything good. Ten minutes later I was back at the car peering in at her and saying, "I TAKE IT BACK!" Because i got this Wegner J16 rocker for $130. I know, I know...it's rough and the last thing I need is another project, but the seat is actually perfect (just a slight gray undertone from weathering, but i rather like it). The joints are all good. I dunno how it got so wrecked on the front side and so unevenly?? The back of it is fine. I think I will strip it and sand it to a uniform tone and then soap it up---seat too. And then I'll probably sell it because I already have one. But the transformation will be fun. | |||||
| Need help identifying this barcelona stool. | 1 Relevance | 7 years ago | Evan_ | Identification | |
| Hello everyone, A while ago i bougth an old barcelona stool frame. I bougth it through internet and before i received it i was 100% sure that it was authentic Knoll but when it arrived i had second thougths. Everything seems to be perfect. The curves of the frame, the X section, the holes for the screws, the dimensions of the frame and the dimensions of the steel bar are the same as the dimensions i read in a MoMA catalogue that i have. Everything looks perfect exept one thing. I believed it was made from stainless steel. I did the magnet test and it is magnetic. Then i read online that some grades of stainless steel can be magnetic. The frame is old, i don't know when it was produced and what kind of stainless steel Knoll used to use back then. Afterwards, while i was cleaning the frame i noticed that there was something like peeling on one leg so i thought that the frame might be chromed plated but all the other details of the frame are characteristics of the stainless steel version. I read online that Knoll shifted from chrome to stainless steel in 1964. Can anybody tell what it is going on with this frame? I bought it at a very very good price so even if it isn't Knoll i have made a good purchase but i need to find out. If it isn't Knoll it is the best replica i have ever seen in my life. Thank you so much. Attachment: Στιγμιότυπο-2020-02-15-12.33.16-πμ.png | |||||
| Recent remodel | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | brentgable | General discussion | |
| Recent remodel I work for a home builder on the east coast and we did a remodel last year where we took a fairly traditional home and pretty much gutted the thing and transformed it into a contemporary. The home was built by an architect and it actually had what we call the 'bones' of a modern house. The stair rails however were painted white spindles and knell posts so they had to go. I totally agree that a railing needs to be touchable so for our hand rails we used 2 inch round mahogany stained red to contrast the bamboo flooring and treads. We also fabricated all our posts by cutting our design out of 2 inch angle iron leaving a very small section beneath the railing with a 90 degree bend recessed into the rail so your that hand barely feels it. We welded these to square feet and had them powder coated black. These were all mounted to the stairs pre powder coat and all the holes were marked out and drilled. It was extremely labor intensive, but the client was really happy with the outcome. The stainless steel cables we used were from a company called Precision Cable and Swaging and the connectors are called Top Hat Cable System. They are the nicest ones we've found as none of the threads show so they are very sleek. Here is their web site address: http://www.prescable.com/top_hat.htm | |||||
| LRF | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | LuciferSum | General discussion | |
| LRF First of all: Do you have any basis for making accusations that the Eames foundation is going to sell the house? You really need to do some research before you make reckless statements like that. This is a highly regarded forum and you do it a great disservice by making uninformed allegations. Secondly: Your only seeming "fact" for beginning this thread is that an acquaintance told you secondhand that the house was in disrepair. You seem to have disregarded the link that SDR provided to the Eames Foundation - the very thing you were demanding in the first place. The first bullet on the Eames Foundation website states that the house has been declared a national historic landmark - a benefit that will provide the house with federal money for upkeep, as well as expert advice on the restoration of the property. The second bullet on the Eames Foundation website deals with the foundation calling in a botanical expert to help restore the pine tree between the house and the studio. These clearly aren't the actions of a family looking to cash in on the property value of their grandparents estate. In fact, in the words of the Eames Foundation: "The primary goal of the Eames Foundation is to maintain and protect the integrity and authenticity of the Eames House. If you've already visited, you've experienced the miracle of the House. Steel and glass were excellent and resilient material choices. As some of the materials and processes were experimental, however, there are other very real physical considerations needing attention. And we want the House to continue to inspire others for at least the next fifty years!" | |||||
| HP... | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | dcwilson | General discussion | |
| HP... If green is your thing, then perhaps we should look at updating it in entirely in green materials. Tree farmed wood only. Maybe use particle board materials where possible in order to make use of the saw dust and wood chips being recycled anyway. Maybe the bulges could be kept, but a more modernist form languge could be used to express them in. Also, castors might be fashioned of tree farmed wood. I've never understood the need for metal or resinous castors or rollers. I am not married to space age materials, but I have now used bicycles made of carbn fiber and like them alot. They have tremendous capacity for surfaces to be expressed in ergonomic curves to fit the body. They are light. They are extremely strong, at least in the vectors in which they are designed to be strong, etc. But carbon fiber isn't clean yet, that's for sure. Hey, maybe we should talk to koen about the feasiblity of casting a chair in ceramics. Maybe join the ceramic members with wood joints. Or vice versa. Wood members with ceramic joints. I'm open to anything. Who says chairs have to be light. I've long thought ceramic furniture might be neat and it would drastically alter the production location equation away from shippiing finished products around the world. The very heaviness of ceramic furniture would force such furniture to be made near its market, to minimize shipping costs, which would make such furniture enormously green. | |||||
| I think you're safe doing the | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | Spanky | Repair | |
| I think you're safe doing the top rail exactly like your original weave. It's possible that different weavers had their individual quirks in the overall pattern. I've certainly seen that in Danish furniture woven with paper cord. I didn't look at the Sidecar post in detail but I know that on the pieces I've done with binder cane, the starting end usually was tacked and the finish end was just tucked under---which I think is because there's usually no way to anchor the finish end with a tack and still be able to hide it. When you tack the starting end, you wrap the cane around and over the tack to hide it. Maybe i'm mis-remembering it, though--haven't done this type of weave in at least 2 years, i think. By the way--modern cane splits more easily than the stuff they used 40 or more years ago. I have seen old cane tacked with tiny blue steel upholstery tacks but I've had WAY better luck using small wire nails (which i've also found on lots of old caned pieces, Danish & otherwise.) You will need a tack hammer for these (about $5 at any hardware store). And unless you're really good at hitting tiny nails exactly square on the head every time, just hold it in place with needle nose pliers until you get it halfway in. I figured that one out the hard way. Oh, and another thing that i keep forgetting to add---don't try to work out all the details before you even start. It's too much to keep in your head. Figure out your first step or two (including how to pre-soak the cane---vitally important). I know I always do a lot of reading first but there are always a few little tricks or steps that I gloss over---then later I get stuck and reread it and think, "oh THAT'S what they're talking about!" Many little eureka moments. Do a lot of reviewing as you go, it'll save you a headache or two. | |||||
| Porsche Design | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | LRF | General discussion | |
| I was in the new Porsche Design store in Dallas at the North Park mall . this week This is a cool store. These people not only know how to design cool cars but they sure have a handle on good design on every thing they do from sunglass to wrist watchs, Not knowing that much about Porsche Design other than i drive a Porsche Cayenne S SUV and have worn there sunglasses for years, These guys are engineers of great stuff. If you are looking for a good Timepiece check theres out. Another good store in that mall for us Design addicts is the Raymond Nasher museum store, this guy owns one of the largest collections in the world of sculptures, that he houses in a separate museum location, but he opened up these stores with tons of great books on Modernism and Art . they actually encourage you to see down and read the books very nice. Since i am giving a trip report on Dallas North park Mall one needs to Check out Nieman Marcus from floor to floor this store is more like a modern museum than a dept. store, The chairs they have all over most all modern and original from years past with great artwork scattered all around really cool . This store not only has great merchandise it makes you feel good to go shopping in such a nice environment , so you all from the UK and Australia come on down to Dallas we would love to have you. | |||||
| thanks! | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | rockybird | General discussion | |
| thanks! Well thanks for all the compliments and advice. I feel really fortunate to have this home, but it is taking a lot of work and money to get it up and running (a scarey thing in this economy). It had been unlived in for three years when I got it and was in TERRIBLE shape. Not even the lights worked. Most if not all of the plumbing fixtures were broken. There was water damage. The previous owners had added a wall to close off the kitchen from the great room and it looked like a dark cave. They added the most awful ugliest fireplace which stretched about 15 feet across one wall. The cabs. were good quality, but tuscany ornate style. I have removed everything, including the wall, cabinets, flooring, appliances, plumbing fixtures, vanities, and jack-hammered the fireplace out of there (the year "1965" is painted on the orignal wall behind the fireplace). There is nothing but raw mastick-covered concrete now. I was hoping to polish the concrete floors but apparently the old tile grout lines will shine through the sealant and it will look like a grid. So, I am going to install 18x24" tile, not cheap for a 3800 sq. foot house. Today I went and got a permit to take down a garage that is blocking the view of the mountain from two bedrooms (there is also a carport). Most of the house has been re-wired as of today. The good news is that I found the orignal drawings in the house. Thanks again for your advice. I might post again asking for it! | |||||
| Pearsall or something else? Need opinions! | 1 Relevance | 14 years ago | SailsTampa | General discussion | |
| Thanks for link to Pearsall catalog. I found my high back swivel chairs(2139-C). The 3 seater sofa and lounge chair were out of the same home but .... I didn't find them in the Pearsall catalog or anywhere else I've looked online. The wood either isn't walnut or it has a lighter finish that is worn off at corners There are screw holes covered with little wood tabs where arms and legs attach to frames. Seems more clunky than Pearsall. There are pieces of curved wood trim across the front of sofa and the lounge chair - defining the seats. They kind of look like smiles. I love the way they look in my living room but they need re-upholstery big time. I am not sure if the expense is worth it if these aren't the real thing. Opinions? http://s1144.photobucket.com/albums/o495/SailsTampa/ | |||||
| Woody... | 1 Relevance | 13 years ago | onegroovydude | General discussion | |
| Woody... "The anecdote that you last described is merely another illustration of how your primary motivation for buying (aka your main reason for "liking") an object is its potential profitability, rather than its artistic or design value. As I said before, that is certainly fine, just have the willingness to admit it and I think folks here will be a bit more receptive." I would agree if that were the case. If I bought everything on potential profitability, I would take a van down to the flea market, and fill it full to the brim with whatever I could cram in, and then dump it on the net. I would never know what any of this stuff ever was, if I didn't see the artistic value first. I leave hundreds of things behind every week, that doesn't reach out and grab me. I've probably passed up thousands of dollars, because I didn't see the artistic or design value in an object. I don't understand why you can't see that. I don't know the profit of 80% of the stuff I buy until I get home, and research it "after" I bought it "for" the artistic and design value. Of all the things I've ever sold, I've only sold the same thing a handful of times. I've sold 800 totally different items, so how can I buy on the profit margin of something that's brand new to me every week? Also, why aren't you a multi-millionaire by now? Or maybe you are (I seem to recall you mentioning that in another thread).... 🙂 I've been stuck working by myself my whole life. It's like trying to run a big restaurant, with 24 full tables, and you're the server, chef, bartender, dishwasher, busboy, and cleanup crew. And still run another company on the side. It's hard for any one man to do successfully. I can't get reliable, trustworthy help. I end up having to babysit, instead of working. I get very frustrated with people who have no common sense. I end up spending more time watching them, than working. | |||||
| Don't take it apart. This is | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | fastfwd | General discussion | |
| If you'd purchased the chair used or without a warranty, I'd certainly go along with Heath's recommendation to take it apart and start measuring. But you've bought it new from an authorized FH dealer, right? So this is a straightforward warranty or shipping-damage claim. Disassembling the chair or attempting to make any repairs will complicate that claim, so don't do any of that. The way you've described the problem seems more tortuous than necessary, so I wonder whether I understand the problem correctly. To me it sounds as though the chair simply wobbles from its right-front foot to its left-rear -- a problem that could conceptually be fixed by placing a wedge under either the right-front or left-rear foot. Is that an accurate description of the problem? If so, you should absolutely not accept the chair as-is. $6000 is too much to spend for a wobbly chair. So... If you still have the shipping materials, don't throw them out. Make sure that the chair really is wobbly and it's not just an uneven floor: Find a surface that is known to be flat (I use a marble dining table when I have to do this sort of thing at home) and set the chair on it. With three of the chair's feet on the table, hold a ruler next to the fourth foot and take a photo to show how far above the surface it is. Next, and without delay, contact the dealer and show him the photograph. Ask for the chair to be fixed and don't take no for an answer. He shouldn't give you any trouble at all; when you spend that kind of money, you're entitled to expect not just an excellent chair, but also excellent customer service. Good luck. | |||||
| Unmarked Hans Wegner CH25 | 1 Relevance | 14 years ago | Andre | General discussion | |
| My first ever post and already asking for advice... Last Sunday I bought one of my all-time favorite chairs -- a Vintage Hans Wegner CH25. I bought it from a reputable dealer in Seattle who gave me until Wednesday to return it for any reason. The chair is in great condition with a lot of rich patina acquired over, I assume, multiple decades. It looks just like the type of CH25 I always hoped to find one day (and be able to afford it). The one thing it does not have is any kind of marking. On the web I found pictures of CH25 that have a silver Carl Hansen & Son/ Hans Wegner sticker as well as a stamped number next to it. Others have a black, stamped marking stating the same. Mine has none. I checked below the arms ? no sticker and nothing is stamped in. I looked on the inside of the cross bar between the front legs and nothing either (expect for something that looks like some glue residue). Otherwise every detail of my chair matches the pictures on the Carl Hansen & Son website as well as others from various sites on the web. The craftsmanship is excellent and the entire chair feels very substantial. Do you know if there are CH25 that, at some point, were made without any markings or types of markings that wear off over time? Is it possible that my chair is just an excellent copy of the original? Please have a look at the pictures of my chair and let me know what you think. I?m also wondering if it is worth to contact Carl Hansen & Son to check with them? Thank you for your help, Andre http://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=8CB7B75C36C2CB94!146 | |||||
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