Search result for: the-last-thing-you-aquired-
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Hey Ken, | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | racecar | General discussion | |
| Hey Ken, I've successfully used raw tung oil (Enviro-Magic brand) on a cutting board, doing the same method you describe. Because it was a cutting board I didn't cut it with mineral spirits as a lot of woodworkers suggest. Just wiped on a coat, let it soak in for 20 minutes, wiped off excess, and let it cure for a few days and then buffed it with #0000 steel wool. Repeated that about 5 times. If the steel wool was gummy, I let it cure longer. The protection was really amazing. Red wine spills overnight on the board just wiped right up the next morning. I tried the same exact thing on a walnut DCM, but with different results. I'm attaching a picture, it's hard to see, but toward the top edge, it's not nearly as "golden". This is after at least 4 coats, waiting 3-5+ days in between. I'm not sure what happened. It looks like I may have buffed through the coats, but I was very very light with the steel wool. Any ideas? Just as an aside, I now mostly use walnut oil on cutting boards. Mineral oil is always oily, while tung oil actually cures. Walnut oil is somewhere in between and semi-polymerizes over time if you could call it that. It's not petroleum derived, it's non-toxic, and it's easy to use. I was hoping to use raw tung oil on furniture and would love to hear any tips you might have and a bit more about your process. -eric | |||||
| a slightly different view | 1 Relevance | 22 years ago | jbideas | General discussion | |
| a slightly different view I am a long time PC user. Never really "got it" with the MAC. But I have also not tried for over ten years either. A few weeks ago I was on the road and decided to purchase a web cam for the laptop. I purchased one that a thought would be adequate and it was as far as delivering images goes. But the problem was that the darn thing would not stay on my laptop. Every time I moved it would fall off. My colleague, in the next room, had a Mac and decided that he too needed a webcam. When his got there it was packaged crisply and smartly, a small cube compared to the PC Cam's big, loud box and interior molded plastic shell. The cube unfolded with a message on each part and the camera was neatly and logically packed. Just the box made me drool. The camera itself looked like something from a James Bond movie, sleek, sexy and small. Just a small white tube with brushed stainless accents. The camera came with a clip on holder for the laptop that was adjustable for different thicknesses. The designers at Apple had thought of everything from the packaging to the comfort. For me this experience was the inspiration to get back to doing what I love, which is designing high-end billiard cue cases. I plan to get a Mac for the primary reason that I believe they think like I do. Secondly, I believe that the Mac OS is far more stable than Windows and when I am working with large files and lots of open stuff I want to be able to depend on my machine. Maybe I am misguided but at least my computer will look cool and flow. John - newbie to this forum | |||||
| Barry | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | LuciferSum | General discussion | |
| Barry Sometimes inflection gets lost in text, and I am certainly not trying to sound condescending or rude. But, the sofas you list and the PK31 are NOT intended for the same market. Class and commodity are defined by layers. Very often, when you occupy one layer, you compress all of the others into one. However - there will always be a tier above. Again, not trying to be rude - you and I probably occupy similar tiers- but there are faaaaar more tiers above us than you might think. Luxury is a funny thing. I'm sure Barry, that many of the things you and I do on a regular basis would be considered 'luxuries' by those less fortunate than us. I spend $5 a day for my morning coffee and $600 on a plywood chair. To the person going to Dunkin Donuts, or Ikea those prices seem outrageous - and really... can the quality be THAT much better? Now, I agree with Koen, that materials and manufacturing can only go so far in explaining the price of something. After that comes the genius of marketing. And clearly FH knows that if they produce this couch for 30k, they can sell it. Good for them. As to what kind of person would buy such a sofa? Well I was at a party recently and I asked a gentleman how he had spent the weekend. Well...he'd wanted a good bottle of wine, so he got on his jet and flew to Napa, then shot down to Puerto Rico, and then over to Costa Rica, then back to the east coast. He also owns a Bentley and lives in a mansion on a mountain in which he installed the ballroom of a French chateau and his collection of BC Roman marbles. Need I say more? At a certain point luxury becomes ABOUT luxury - not any kind of quality or recognition...simply because you can. | |||||
| Is this an original Aalto stool? | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | toomanychairs | Identification | |
| Trashpicked today. Yes, it has a globby paint job, and it's in very rough condition overall. Looking to strip, sand, reglue, and lacquer. I am optimistic. Is this the real thing, produced by Artek? I am leaning toward a yes, based on the following. PRO: 44cm high, 35cm diameter, apparently same as the originals. Bent legs are solid wood, not ply, with four splines in the tops to accomodate the bend (see photos) Photos of other originals seen online also have the small hole at center of seat underneath CON: No veneer edging; hardwood joints in seat visible on edge. Eager to hear other opinions. Photos attached. Thanks all. | |||||
| I hate to | 1 Relevance | 14 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| I hate to disagree with my friend Heath, no amateur when it comes to woodworking and related crafts -- but I believe he errs here in two particulars. One, the shapes of the open seams on the top surface of the stool show that the wood has warped unevenly, meaning that pressure alone wouldn't be able to close those joints. And two, it is likely that the stool is no longer perfectly round -- nor are its healthy mates, I suspect -- because most turned shapes begin to go out of round not long after leaving the lathe, due to the uneven nature of wood shrinkage. So, placing this stool on the lathe now (which would involve gluing a temporary centering block to the top, to avoid damage to the surface there) would confound the person attempting to clean and sand the stool by that method. But he is correct in his remaining observations, I think. The open seam in the central column of the stool can't be closed without breaking other joints above and below, I would say. Best to mix some epoxy (I'd go dark brown, but what do I know of current fancy) -- the only problem, there, being that new wax or oil have been added to the surface, no doubt contaminating the open seams to be filled. I would have left this object in its found state, open seams, dry surface and all. I think those defects go together, all of a piece; weathered wooden objects are expected to have a dry surface and opening joints. But we've seen plenty of the kind of thing presented in the last photos, above. So be it. | |||||
| RE: Kai Kristiansen chairs ? | 1 Relevance | 6 years ago | aaronny | Identification | |
| Posted by: leif ericson - Zephyr Renner And going back to the language thing. German and French, 18 years after then end of war, were not just any two brotherly languages. One of them invaded and occupied the other, and then vice versa, while it was demonstrated that atrocities such as the holocaust were happening in Germany. So was a Frenchman going to print up delivery tags in German and use fancy German abbreviations? No. Definitely not. Definitely not. Such nonsense can only be written by someone who comes from the deepest American province and has no idea of post-war European history. (Apologies to all american well-educated members here). Already 1957 the EEC was founded, an economic community of France, Italy, Belgium, Netherland, Luxembourg and West Germany, and it was common practice, that delivery labels from all members were used in all member states. And not a single French company has refused to use labels in German, not even with "fancy German abbreviations". Economic thinking had priority if the companies weren't totally stupid.Dear Mr. Renner, please consider this as short lesson for your further education. Needless to say free of charge. | |||||
| Hal, | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | mgee76 | General discussion | |
| Hal, You shouldn't have to do a lot of sanding, if any, if you properly chemical strip. I can't tell by the pictures too closely, but the majority of the damage I see is to the top. I haven't really inspected one of these desks too closely, but I would imagine you could separate the legs and the cabinets and be left with just the desk top? If that's the case, and you want to refinish, I'd suggest taking it apart and then stripping the top. Sand only to remove scratches, dings, and other things you can't steam our or repair another way. If you're new to this process, I'd personally suggest that you get some Citristrip and some cellophane or thin, plastic wrap, like a cut up trash bag. Slather the piece in the Citristrip with a brush and then wrap it in plastic. Try to make sure no air can touch it. Leave it like that for several hours. You can test a portion to see how soft the finish has become, and, when satisfied, simply scrap it all off with an edge knife or other dull scraping tool. It should easily fall away. At this point, wash the whole thing with mineral spirits, let it dry for a day, and then proceed to deciding how to finish. Of course you can use a stronger product for quicker results, and there are many out there. But if you're apprehensive at all about any of this, I'd suggest taking it easy and using something that is, at the very worst, going to make a slight mess. If you follow those instructions, it should be fool-proof. If you merely attempt to sand the finish off, you're going to get worse results and risk forcing the finish into the wood. Save your time and energy and just strip it down and keep it original as possible. | |||||
| centerpiece for a sarrinen table and Poulsen PH5 lamp | 1 Relevance | 18 years ago | ~L | General discussion | |
| Our home is going on the market this weekend and I am in the final stages of getting it looking fab. We have a white 48" round Saarinen style table and 4 armless Saarinen tulip chairs in our eating area of our open kitchen and a Poulsen PH5 hanging lamp over it (thanks to this forum!). Our kitchen is white laminate with light grey formica counter tops and a 6 burner Jenn-Air on the center island. The only thing on the counters are a microwave, a few baskets for my fresh fruit and my garlic, and knife block ( I am storing the coffee pot, toaster oven and pottery container for the everyday cooking utensils). I do have one double upper cabinet with glass fronts with some of my good dishes and glassware - it looks very nice! Another upper cabinet has my favorite cookbooks (weeded out) and a couple of 50's cookie jars (they are a set - Dutch boy and girl and the colors go with the room). I am trying to figure out a centerpiece for the table. In my last home I was able to put fresh flowers on the table as it was a South of France decor. I am at a loss of what to put on this one, or if I need anything at all. I don't expect rave reviews from buyers on my kitchen as I live in the colonial capital of the US with people who absolutely LOVE Saltboxes, executive colonials, country decor and the like!!!! Up until now the table has been BARE! Any thoughts? | |||||
| Need help identifying couch and chair! | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Dlevy05 | General discussion | |
| Hey everyone, I just stumbled upon this great forum, in an ongoing search to find who made my couch and chair. My girlfriend and I bought these two items from a family who has owned them since new. Unfortunately they only thing they knew about the pieces were that they were originally bought (by a former generation) in the 50's in Brazil. The couch was in great condition, and in need of only partial restoration, when I found it. We stripped the wrought iron frame, and repainted it, a beautiful anodized black, carefully undid all of the hand sewn stitches in the pillows/cushions, and removed the original latex foam (which I believe was a material used in higher end products of the time), cleaned the fabric (that took two whole weeks, and a lot of labor!), replaced the foam and sewed the fabric back up with my mother, who is a master at these things... So, at the end of the day, we have these beautiful pieces which we love, and cherish, but would like to know more about them. If anyone has any info regarding this design, the value of these things, or anything else, please let us know! Thanks in advance! P.S. On each seat cushion there were eight buttons (four on each side) and two buttons on each back pillow (one on each side). If you can't make it out in the photo, the orange color of the fabric is a deep rusty orange (a bit deeper than the photo shows) and the back pillows are a dark blue with purple hue. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=5244522&l=18cd5151d9&id=515026949 | |||||
| Need help with Wall Unit? ID | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | l1flafly | General discussion | |
| I purchased this wall unit at a large discount since it was missing the mounting hardware, when I got it home I realized I had never seen a wall unit like this and was puzzled as to how I'm going to go about actually mounting it. The unit has no markings and I cant find anything with hardware that would fit this piece. I need help on this one, any one recognize this thing? The set came with this drawer piece and two drop down desk units that match, no shelves or other parts. Second photo shows the bottom of the unit, the two lines running across the bottom are actually grooves that are on all the pieces. Third photo shows the mounting holes (I assume) that are on both sides of the units towards the back end. Any help is appreciated. I will keep looking otherwise. | |||||
| EZ Anchors (aka screw anchors) | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | william-holden-... | General discussion | |
| EZ Anchors (aka screw anchors) I've hung all my shelving using this type of anchor in my drywall. > accurately mark the wall where you intend to put screws > aim a Phillips head screwdriver at mark > tap the screwdriver head through the drywall with a hammer > remove screwdriver from wall. Now there's a nice pilot hole. (Alternately, use a drill for pilot holes) > tap the anchor's point into the hole with a hammer, until the threads just about meet the surface of drywall > screw the anchor into the drywall using a Phillips head > voila! Now you can screw the rails into each strategically placed anchor, the hell with studs. I've hung four shelving units in this manner, they each hold hundreds of pounds of books & electronics, they've been installed for more than a decade. The only thing you need to pay careful attention to is measuring & marking the screw holes accurately, and making sure that each rail is precisely level with the rest. I suggest that you make a diagram (with measurements) of where the screws should fall on the wall, before beginning. EDIT: As SDR points out afterward, screw anchors need a specific size screw (--if memory serves, it's a #8 sheet metal screw). Ask your hardware guy about the screws, if you go this route. | |||||
| Love Boston!!! | 1 Relevance | 22 years ago | DavidDC | General discussion | |
| Love Boston!!! Olive, I went to law school at Boston College many many years ago, and lived in Brookline for 3 years. Though I original hail from Los Angeles, and now live in the DC area, I absolutely love love love your city!!! I think the rowhouses on Beacon Hill are gorgeous, as well as many of the old(er) homes in Newton and outer suburbs. What I don't understand is this McMansion phenonomem. I can understand why people desire newer construction (although I think the quality of such construction is debatable, and I'll take a Sears kit house over a teardown any day), I can't seem to grasp this more recent trend of why people want to live in a simply enormous house and are willing to be "house poor" (or "house broke") to do so. I know couples without kids who don't even entertain and who desire a six bedroom place. Is it a status thing? What I like about my current, smaller rowhouse in Alexandria, with it's open floor plan, is that I feel like I'm using all of the home. In my previous house, which had a "bonus" family room, a living room, and a formal dining room," etc etc etc, I felt so much space was being wasted. I almost felt guilty if I didn't sit in the dining room or the formal living room at least once a week, since I spent almost all my time at home in that small "bonus" family room. | |||||
| Thanks all. | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | tchp | General discussion | |
| Thanks all. I think I figured out the backrest wrapping. My initial conclusion that the wraps were done from the center outward to the arms was not necessarily correct. At this point my luck has been better working from the arm toward the center. In the end it may not matter which direction one goes. I inspected the old original cane I had removed from the backrests and saved in a paper bag, and it slightly overlaps each wrap, at the bottom of the backrest. At the top there is no overlap. At first I could not get the cane to want to do this, since it was still too hard even after soaking, and wanted to slip off. However, I used my HAAN handheld steamer and this made it easy to do, since it makes the cane very limber at the points where I need it to be. Another thing that helped was the old ghosted imprint of the original cane, since I am using this as my guide. If my wraps start to vary from the original, I am able to correct it by unwrapping and start that area over. EDIT: Starting the second side of the backrest, I found that it seems you pretty much have to wrap from the armrest inward toward the center of the backrest, since the downward slope of shape of the wood does not allow you to overwrap the cane slightly if you try wrapping from the center toward the armrest, since the cane just slips off itself. So, right now I am wrapping in toward the center from the other side. This actually gives you quite a lot of control over how much of the cane you want to overlap onto the preceding wrap. | |||||
| RE: Madsen and Schubell | 1 Relevance | 7 years ago | Herringbone | General discussion | |
| Ok, so here‘s the story about model 9. We have all reason to believe, that the chair doesn’t only look like the Oda chair by Nanna Ditzel. Model 9 almost certainly IS the Oda chair by Nanna Ditzel. Which of course indicates, that the Oda chair, which fetches pretty high prices as a Nanna Ditzel original, was in fact never designed by Nanna Ditzel but by Arnold Madsen for Madsen and Schubell. Why do we think this?There is no historical record, that Nanna Ditzel had something to do with it. Leif asked her daughter: nothing. He asked Peter Kjelgaard at Bruun Rasmussen: nothing. I asked Brdr Petersen who produce the chair: nothing. The chair is supposed to have been originally produced by Paul Kolds savværk. But no ad from Kold for this chair has appeared nor is the chair mentioned in any catalog as a Nanna Ditzel. There is only one source for the Ditzel credit: the Japanese expert Prof. Oda, who wrote about it in his major book about Danish chairs. But after weeks of research we have to assume that his attribution is wrong. We have documentation that the chair was produced by Madsen and Schubell. We have Flemming Schubell, who was involved in the production of the chair at M&S and who identifies photos of old Ditzel chairs as probably being M&S. And we have no recorded connection to Nanna Ditzel. The fine folks at Brdr Petersen have been producing and marketing the chair since 2011 as a Ditzel design. They have acknowledged the lack of documentation already and changed their info on the chair on their Website. Which is a respectable thing to do. | |||||
| Pt.4 | 1 Relevance | 20 years ago | dcwilson | General discussion | |
| Pt.4 One more thing, T. S. Eliot arranged The Four Quartets in a linguistic structural procession of chamber music pieces. I would be being quite presumptutous to suggest anything to a man of your gifts during the act of creation, but that is who I am. When you get bogged down occassionally in the rigor of the working out of the ins and outs of your project, you might read a little bit here and a little bit there of the the Four Quartets. Somehow the opening of Burnt Norton, the first of the four, suggests its relevance to you as antithesis. Forgive me, for I know he is a bit too devout for your taste, but it goes like this: "Time present and time past Are both perhaps present in time future, And time future contained in time past. If all time is eternally present All time is unredeemable. What might have been is an abstraction Remaining a perpetual possibility Only in a world of speculation. What might have been and what has been Point to one end, which is always present. Footfalls echo in the memory Down the passage which we did not take Towards the door we never opened Into the rose-garden. My words echo Thus, in your mind. But to what purpose Disturbing the dust on a bowl of rose-leaves I do not know. Other echoes Inhabit the garden. Shall we follow?" Music moves through time and space. And you are on your way through your procession through a space you are creating, for others to follow through, also. Of course designing such a building appealed to a man of your tendancies, preferences and capabilities. Let the procession from sound to space carry on. I'm already saving my nickels and dimes to go to France and hear a tune or two there. And I will gladly follow you through the space you found your way through before me. | |||||
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