Search result for: the-last-thing-you-aquired-
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| . | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | HPau | General discussion | |
| . Diffeent types of saw indeed, these are very good although if you're feeling like more of a traditionalist Lie Nielsen sell joinery sets that while expensive are excellent. I've gone back to more handwork, its cheaper, quieter and safer and unless you are batching out something often faster and more convenient, and the neighbours won't complain! On the other hand I agree with SDR about the table saw...as he says it depends on what you want to do and you don't have to be a purist either, sometimes you'll want to use a machine one minute and a hand tool the next, who wants to hand cut a mortise? Not this guy, ever. If you are finding yourelf wanting to take it seriously but can't afford the good tools just stop and save for it and sketch your ideas until you can, it is horrible having to struggle with poor quality gear...I wish someone had given me that advice 5 years ago. Actually the LN set is only 1500 bucks, you'd still need a bench, a cross cut saw and some squares and marking out tools but 'd say for 2k you could set yorself up with top notch basic gear, some guys pride themselves on restoring old Stanleys and having a shop that looks like a museum, cool if you've got time for that sort of thing I suppose. Then you need to get some wood....sorry thats probably all a bit too much info but I hope it helps. Actually that LN set is more limited than I thought. http://www.lie-nielsen.com.au/catalog.php?grp=1460 | |||||
| Oh Aunt Mark, I thought you | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| Oh Aunt Mark, I thought you might be in favor of leaving it as is! I like certain kinds of things in a weathered state (Harrison Ford would be an example) but not this thing. For one, the arms are very rough to the touch which doesn't invite using the arm rests at all. And the weathering is actually kind of uneven and strange, like there's one sort of pitted area in the top back but lacquer remains around it. I've been wondering how that could have happened. The cord seat is intact but it has that pale gray color of a cotton hammock that's been left out for a few seasons or more. I think what happens is that mildew starts to grow when it's damp, but then a hot, sunny, dry spell comes along and bleaches out the mildew almost completely but there's always a faint hint of it. Lather, rinse, repeat all summer long, and next summer, and the next, etc. The underside of the seat has really gross-looking brown water stains that I think might be the pigment from the brown paper?? I hope that's all it is. I too hate faked weathering and wear with a passion. Especially furniture where the paint is "worn off" in places where human bodies wouldn't have touched it much. That's so silly. | |||||
| Sideboard France & Son? | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | AndreaS | Identification | |
| hello, I picked up this sideboard in an Italian house, together with two France & Son armchairs and a scandinavian looking bookshelf. Owners had clearly a thing for scandinavian furniture 🙂 Anyway, I dug a bit but couldn't find much about this sideboard. It is very well produced and extremely solid. I was wondering if it might also belong to France & Son but I don't have many publication to help me... any ideas? any suggestion would be the most appreciated thanks! | |||||
| Greg S... | 1 Relevance | 18 years ago | dcwilson | General discussion | |
| Greg S... I was involved in that prior exchange also, but thanks anyway. Just a few days ago, I discovered there is a pretty vocal but so far decidedly a minority group of Triumph owners expressing disatisfaction with their boats. Triumphs have a lot of things vibrating off of them apparently, because screws are used instead of bolt throughs with substantial backing. Not sure what to make of all thing. Also, one guy noted that while Triumph's use poly for the hull bottoms they also use some kind of foam core in the hull sides. He says this is quite similar to the way certain plastic water sport boards are made and that these tend to delaminate in about 3-4 years. Again, this is a claim, not a fact as far as I can tell. With all the capital investment in FRP, it would not be surprising to find a lot of lurkers out on boat sites disinforming about poly boats like Triumph. On the other hand, poly is a relatively new boat usage and it no doubt will have some down sides. Interestingly, in Australia, and Northern Europe, where poly boats appear to be in widest use for the longest time, I haven't found any stories yet about significant problems with durability...quite the contrary. | |||||
| Nothing stands alone, really... | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | Eameshead | General discussion | |
| Nothing stands alone, really... But this piece-- it doesnt stand alone. There is a lifetime of context behind it. It is a link in the chain. (Like i said in my very first post on this subject) The whole "great art should stand alone" thing is a myth anyway. We dont experience much without some kind of words or context or education propping things up one way or another. Or providing a context for meaning, There are words next to the Mona Lisa too. Acceptable forms and acceptable "art marks" only get that way through the evolution of an art language. What makes MEANING is not universal, in my opinion. Different cultures have different ideas about good design too... organization of space, density, stability, color -- none of that stuff was ever "inherent in the object". Its a learned value system of visuals that is usually fused with a personal vision. That said, I know what I like too, and when a work of art is compelling, it SEEMS like it should be obvious to everybody else on the planet. But it often is not. The collective consciousness is all we are left with as a final vote. A final decision about what history decides is great art, leaves much disagreement in its path. What was the question? Jesus I forgot what the hell point I was gonna make. | |||||
| eames lounge chair ottoman query! | 1 Relevance | 18 years ago | jonnie | General discussion | |
| i found this ottoman at a second hand shop, the veneer is coming off quite badly, is it best to patch up the veneer, or have the whole thing re veneered, also i don't expect it to be an original piece as the veneer would not come off if it was quality, but can anyone tell me how you know if you have an original piece, are there any tell tale signs. thanks for your time. | |||||
| Hi, does anyone recognise this mark on Eames shell please | 1 Relevance | 14 years ago | gary & fran | General discussion | |
| Hi, does anyone on here recognise this mark on the underside of an Eames shell armchair in lemon yellow with small shocks on a nickel h base please......the obvious thing that springs to mind is Zenith plastics? any help would be appreciated. thank you | |||||
| Bertoia wire side chairs questions | 1 Relevance | 17 years ago | Fungus Mungus (USA) | General discussion | |
| Is there an easy way to tell if a Bertoia wire chair is authentic if the original cushion is missing? I think, based on the shape of the mesh (rectangular patterns as opposed to square patterns), I've found a set of original chairs for $25 each. There are no markings on the wire frames themselves. The white rislan coating is cracked/flaking off the bottoms of the bases on most, but the rest of the coating is in great shape. The cushions were redone/replaced years ago. Also, some of the little feet are missing...is this something I can get from Knoll (assuming these are authentic)? I've attached a pic of the chairs in question. The thing that bothers me is the cracked rislan coating...I know the only way to repair that properly is to get the whole chair powdercoated...and expense I'm not prepared to deal with. fm | |||||
| That is an interesting design | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Pegboard Modern | General discussion | |
| That is an interesting design to be sure, but not George Nelson. The pictures of the labels looked very odd to me when seen alone. They both look brand new to me and I assumed they were fake. The one in the drawer looks similar to an early Herman Miller/ George Nelson foil paper label, the other label is not one I have ever seen before. I don't really know what to tell you about this bedroom furniture. While Herman Miller would accept custom orders for furniture, in every instance I have seen it is a modification of an existing design. They might agree to make a special size, configuration, wood species, apply different hardware, etc. They did not make unique one-of-a- kind furniture for customers. Certainly not a single bed or bedroom suite. Aside from the label, the only thing that looks vaguely like Nelson is the hairpin-ish legs. There is nothing about the design which would suggest that it was designed by George or anyone in the Nelson office. In fact there are details which look totally contrary to Nelson's design sensibility. I fear that someone may be trying to get a better price for what is otherwise a cool period piece by applying labels which are not original to the furniture. | |||||
| I should really find a woodworking forum, but... | 1 Relevance | 17 years ago | fastfwd | General discussion | |
| I should really find a woodworking forum, but this is quick and (I hope) simple for the experts here: I've got an old, sloppily-refinished Bertoia bench (oak slats, 1" thick) that I bought secondhand a little while ago. I started to take it apart for a proper restoration today, and I discovered that a previous owner had snapped the heads off a few of the screws. Instead of extracting the broken screws and repairing the holes, he chose to drill new holes next to the old ones and fill them with random drywall screws. I got a killer deal on the thing, so I'm not complaining too loudly, but still... Anyway, the only experience I have with a similar repair is from twenty years ago, when I spent a week helping a friend repair dozens of stripped screw holes in his boat. We drilled each hole to around twice its original diameter, pressed in an epoxy-covered wood plug, then drilled that plug for the screw. I'm planning to drill out the broken screws and then repair the bench the same way as the boat. Good idea? | |||||
| bubs | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| bubs For the two-side-rail chairs, you can't pull your weaving cord off the coil because you have to pull it all the way through the side rails rather than just looping it around an L-nail on the underside. You need a finite length for that side rail wrapping. The trick is to get good at keeping the whole length from getting tangled so that you can work with a little bit longer length than they recommend and thus have fewer tacked ends underneath. I think I had three in all. Maybe two. When I first started out on these chairs, I spent a LOT of time untangling cord. Like, more time untangling than weaving. You can start at the front or the back of the chair. I like to start at the back because it's tough to fit the last few rows in and it's just easier not to be reaching across the seat to do it. That's all. Otherwise it doesn't make much difference. The other thing you need to be careful of is keeping the wraps on the side rails as tightly packed as possible. Push them with the dull edge of a butter knife, or something like that. Just be careful not to let it slip and gouge the cord (or your fingers). | |||||
| brigittelee, | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Spanky | Identification | |
| brigittelee, I'm delighted that you like our Tabu Tiki Room. It has given us much joy. There are a lot of resources on line to find out more about tropical furniture design in rattan, bamboo and koa wood, and there is also a terrific book called "Tiki Modern" written by a friend of ours about the heavily carved/ tiki covered furniture in our place. It was made by Witco (as was a lot of the other decor, and the furniture in Elvis' "Jungle Room" at Graceland). If you (or anyone else on the forum) is interested in Tiki and would like a copy of our book, send us a message. It is now out of print (hence the silly prices on Amazon) but we still have copies on hand we can sell at cover price (shameless plug). There is also a Schiffer book called, surprisingly, "Rattan tropical comfort in the home" that you might enjoy and has more information about bamboo and rattan furniture designs. Lastly... Mark, this morning when I woke up, the last thing I expected to see today was a picture of a pooping pet pig. Or for that matter, a velvet toy pig in a bathtub spanky. Thanks! | |||||
| Hi dcwilson, yes I'm... | 1 Relevance | 20 years ago | Antonella | General discussion | |
| Hi dcwilson, yes I'm... Hi dcwilson, yes I'm thankful for the comments you have made about Marc Newson's designs. I like functionality also, but I think sometime non-functionality is also nice because it makes us act more creatively. Some of Marc Newson's design are functional though. Not all, but some are I think. You're right I didn't give many explanations about what I think are his merits. Ok, I'll do it now: The first thing is that spontaneously I like his style. For example I like Talby (the mobile phone), and I think he is the one who has launched the fashion of very slim mobiles. But, again, it's because I Like them. Maybe somebody may like the thick ones. I think of him like a designer, an artist and an innovator at the same time. For example the 021C car for Ford Motor Company reflects his ingeniousness, I think, because it doesn't make me think of a car to go fast risking everybody's safety, but of a car designed to go slowly... He designs aeroplanes, bicycles, interiors... and so many other things. He's a professor also. He deserves a bit of trust I think. One of the things that really amazes me is the Voronoi Shelf, because it is made of the safest material ever: Carrara Marble. You can eat on it for how safe it is!! ... It's like a sculpture... it reflects his sculpturing skills... I think it's wonderful... Is it not easy to design a shelf like that... So, I just like his designs and the more I look into them the more I discover things I like. | |||||
| Work in progress | 1 Relevance | 13 years ago | kin1117 | General discussion | |
| Work in progress I spent a couple hours on the seat panel yesterday. I started with bleach mixed with water, but it didn't do anything to the stains after 3 tries. So I went ahead with BKF again without scrubbing. I mixed it with water and made a thick paste and tested it on a small area. When I saw no ill effect, I spread it on top of the panel for a minute or 2 the first couple runs. Then I'd wipe it clean with a damp cloth. I repeated that process about 7-8 times. After each try, more stain would come off. The picture was taken this morning after the wood has dried. It looks similar to when I scrubbed the back of the top panel with the finish coming off. Here're a couple of thoughts: 1: the faded finish is a result of the stain, but not scrubbing because the same thing happened even when I didn't scrub. 2: the faded finish can be reversed. I used "Howard Restore a Finish" and it turned out very well. I tried it on the back of the top panel and will do the same with the seat later on. So far, I'm pretty happy with the progress and will show you the end product when I'm there. Thanks again for all your support and guidance. | |||||
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