Search result for: the-last-thing-you-aquired-
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| I think it is a completely | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| I think it is a completely hare-brained idea, but with the proper tension on the seat, it should be springy, and the rails should not dig into the sitter's legs, even if the rails are thin. If the seat is woven like hammock, the the sitter feels the rails, and the cord becomes an uncomfortable seat. Also, the rabbet can be filled to effectively widen the seat rails if that is actually necessary. Again, I don't think this is a good idea, and it would only make economic sense if the doer wants to waste their time, or if the payer wants to throw absurd amounts of money at the project. And the end result will be devalued chairs, but it is possible to do it right, and comfortably etc. It just makes no sense. I have always been better persuaded not to do something when I learn precisely what I would need to do in order to do that thing, and realize that it is not what I want to do. I have also "wasted" tons of my time doing things that seem worthless to most of the rest of the world.... | |||||
| i had something similar... | 1 Relevance | 22 years ago | sleeper. | General discussion | |
| i had something similar... i had something similar happen to one of mine. i have a very nice, though probably non-knoll, 70s wassily (sold end pipes, not capped). one of the arm slings came undone at the end. there was still enough leather there that i actually sewed it myself. i bought a thick needle and waxed thread meant for leather repairs. you can also buy a piece of black leather if the piece ripped and there insn't enough. before i fixed mine, i asked a shoe repair shop owner who gave me great information. if nothing else, go to a shoe repair shop...most of those guys feel very comfortable working with leather and can fix that sort of thing easily. having lived in colombia, i found such labor to be extremely cheap there, perhaps the same is true in SA? i now live in the US and getting such work done is difficult. best of luck. | |||||
| twine: | 1 Relevance | 20 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| twine: We haven't had our chairs long enough to see if the HD foam from Joann's has broken down much. I've used their regular density white foam for sofa cushions before and I know it doesn't last much past a year or two. I've also seen cheap foam on commercially upholstered sofas break down in that time period. The edges of the plywood on all my Plycraft chairs and ottos have been painted or stained black! Some of it has worn off a bit but it was definitely black to begin with. Good point about rubber cement breaking down with time though once you get a billion staples into it, that isn't so much an issue. I sew mine anyway! On buttons: the kits from Joann's are awful for upholstery. They're meant for garments. Even if you can get the leather thin enough (I scrape the back of it) to fit in there, what inevitably happens is the wire loop pops out. It may take awhile but it will happen. I just use the dome cap part thing and throw the rest away. I buy the 7/8" buttons and and then get 3/4" plastic buttons to use as backs---or maybe it's 1" and 7/8", i forget. I sometimes have to chip away at the edges of the plastic buttons to get them to fit. It's a pain in the neck. Also, cut the leather big enough to wrap around but then cut little 1/8" or 3/16" notches in the edge all the way around. This gets rid of some of the bulk when you stretch it around to the underside of the metal dome. Use the eraser end of a pencil, or the end of a Bic pen or a chopstick or something to work the leather under the pointy prongs of the metal dome. Oh, and dampen the leather! It makes it more pliable and won't hurt the finish at all. Let dry before you glue. Thread the plastic button backing with nylon button twine (it won't stretch). I've also used venetian blind cord, which you can get at Joann's. The button twine is harder to find and isn't crucial, just don't use anything that will break or stretch. Fill the back of the metal dome with JB Weld adhesive, then push the plastic button in with the cord hanging out. Be careful not to get adhesive on the leather. If you do, let it harden and then scrape it off. Usually this works for me. You may want to do an extra button or two just in case. I've done it this way with two other kinds of epoxy cements and both failed eventually. It's SO annoying to see those buttons pop off a month or two or three later. I hate taking the whole damn thing apart to fix one crummy button. It's the metal dome part that always pops off on my chairs, btw. The plastic backer button and the cord hold just great. Oh, on my first chair I used black glove leather on the buttons and it worked with the metal backer that came with the kit---but then the metal loop didn't hold. But glove leather IS thin enough to use on those kit buttons, fyi. | |||||
| Four legs | 1 Relevance | 20 years ago | James Collins | General discussion | |
| Four legs I'm making a model with four legs but how to stabilize it? The square, unlike the triangle, can be deformed which is what has allways bothered me about that ubiquitous Noguchi coffee table and what started this whole thing in the first place. So, what would hold the four legs at a perfect square (or for that matter at some lozenge shape for a surfboard or oval top). All I could think of is one thin rigid bar between two opposite corners fixed to the rods or wires between both rod pairs. That all seems like too much stuff hanging in the middle. I think it has to be something that you don't NEED to use if you prefer the table form "squishy" and if you don't use it there is no sign of anything being missing. On the other hand if you do prefer the security of a piece of hardware assuring you your table is absolutely square, then it ought to look cool to really state what it does. Not some invisible little ratchet hidden within the legs. It's a warm sunny day in SF so I've been out with the dogs and got a little baked. | |||||
| Manufactured landscapes... | 1 Relevance | 18 years ago | koen | General discussion | |
| Manufactured landscapes... by Edward Burtynsky's should be a must for every student in design or designer but that being said I agree with Nate in pointing the finger at ourselfes. The working conditions of Chinese workers are at least to a large extend dictated by Nord American and European companies who aswer the call for "rolling back" the prices. As long as consumers are not prepared to pay a price that is close to what they would have to pay their neighbour for doing the same thing, we will collectively force other people into this kind of working conditions. Why is it that we are willing to pay $60.00 to put on the winter tires (that's what I did yesterday) or $240.00 to have a tooth fixed (the day before)but we still want to go to Wall-Mart (that I never did)to buyproducts that can only be on the market for that price because someone is exploiting someone else... I also wonder if those who are so keen on buying "classics" from so called licenced sources also have the same respect for intellectual property when it comes to other producs (drugs come to mind) | |||||
| Teak Sideboard - Ib Kofod-Larsen??? ID HELP PLEASE | 1 Relevance | 17 years ago | teaksideboard | Identification | |
| Hi all, We have still not found a maker for our sideboard. The only thing which looks similar are a few sideboards by Ib Kofod-Larsen for Faarup Mobelfabrik. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks | |||||
| Welts all over the place | 1 Relevance | 20 years ago | LuciferSum | General discussion | |
| Welts all over the place Hey spanky The chair I have has a single welted armrest - so I may just shell out at an upholsterer for that - maybe even have them make them double welted like the original. All of the rest of the stuff I think I can handle.. im pretty crafty. Do you have any history on the plycraft company? I'm kind of curious about the story. And I'm having a mild crisis of conscience about cutting the backrest down to a manageable size...mostly because I know these chairs do have a decent resale value... but I'm also one of those anal people who can spot the differences between the fake and the original...and it just kills me how huge this thing is. Oy. I've got some time to contemplate it, and I've been checking out the leather selection on ebay. Do you think I need to back the leather with anything? or will it be strong enough on its own? I've not worked with leather in an upholstery fashion before so I'm reading up on it. Thus far I havent seen anything about backing, but thought I'd ask. And some day soon I will get a flickr account so I can post images of before and after. 😀 | |||||
| Hi dadidehol, just looking at | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | _ | Repair | |
| Hi davidehol, just looking at the images you posted, it looks like the fiberglass still has a decent (?) amount of sheen on it, the color is a bit uneven but that is expected on the older shells that had use. Is it the translucent kind or the later opaque fiberglass? Maybe it just needs a fiberglass gel coat to freshen it up a bit. There are several posts here at DA to do this just use the search thing at the top. If it is an older or early version, if these chairs are mine, I will do the least amount of restoration/conservation on these, but this is your call. The chair may not look perfect but these flaws makes your chairs unique compared to the new reissued versions. http://www.eamesoffice.com/the-work/fiberglass-arm-chairs/ Also, are those holes on the seat? If they are, those will require fiberglass material like the ones used for repairing boats, tinting or matching the color requires a good eye, or you could do a version with upholstered seat. | |||||
| Chair with skinny arms and a wide spot | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | dcwilson | General discussion | |
| Needle in a hay stack time, I know. Call it Danish modern. Wood. No wicker. Fabric seat. Fabric back panel. No mark that I can see. Front legs rise up to narrow, narrow, narrow arms with a little broad flat spot halfway between front of chair and back. The arms sweep around in U-shape to create the top of the back. The thing has cracks everywhere that would require serious gluing and clamping. But there's something about this chair that looks like a sophisticated eye designed it. If anyone can offer any picture links, I'd appreciate it. I lost my favorites links in some software upgrading, so I can't remember some of the good links for perusing Danish modern furniture. | |||||
| I'm with ScanDesign on the | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | kate kaplan | General discussion | |
| I'm with ScanDesign on the leg-gnawing, and with Minimoma and Mark on combining things. (I have a Stickly child's table that I think looks pretty great next to the Eames 670.) I like good mid-century furniture because I find it pleasing to the eye, comfortable, good to live with - but clearly other people feel that way about say fussy silly French things, and I don't know why it speaks to them. Some kind of recieved wisdom, that someone said that that was the good stuff? but I could say the same thing about myself, I like the kind of furniture and architecture I grew up with. I wonder how many people came to mid-century stuff after being raised with and living with other things, and why and how it felt .... I suppose there are shrinks/social scientists who study taste, and have some answers ... interesting, at least to me. Ps - Hollywood Regency is modern (ish) furniture with a lot of garbage tacked on to it, so people can say that it's something new. | |||||
| Picture? | 1 Relevance | 18 years ago | Riki | General discussion | |
| Picture? If you posted a picture of your table I might be able to tell you what it is. Long, skinny and lower than dining height could be called alot of things, some of which have already been discussed. How old is it? What wood? What do the legs/stretchers look like? Does it have drawers or doors? It could be a sideboard, a huntboard, a credenza, a chest on stand, a drinks cupboard, you get the picture. Most antiques dealers are old school and if we need to look something up, we use our reference books. Judith Miller's antiques guides have great pictures. You might try searching online under antiques "dictionary" or "encyclopedia" or "glossary" for descriptions and pictures. Another thing to try is perusing past auction catalogues online from Christies, Sothebys, Wrights, etc. They usually have loooooong descriptions with pictures of each lot sold and the price it brought. Good luck! | |||||
| Thanks for the additional | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Eameshead | General discussion | |
| Thanks for the additional photos vintageobsessive. Now that you mention the heavy texture on the back, I do vaguely recall that those other chairs I saw online may have had the heavy texture on the back too. But I am pretty sure I would have remembered something as unique as the "shelves" if I saw them. Thats all I have though, aside from my above post. So it seems like there are three possibilities: 1) Home repair / hack job 2) Knock-off production of some kind (especially if there are others) 3) Super-rare production, experiment or perhaps prototype. (but my guess is Eames wouldn't have put out something with a rough back like that, or the "shelves" for that matter) My guess is number 2, because I have seen that rough back thing before. (But I guess it could be a combo of number 2 AND number 1, as someone could have bought one of the knockoffs with the rough textured back, and THEN added the shelves?) Hopefully someone else has seen these and has a simple answer! | |||||
| Small monumental | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | James Collins | General discussion | |
| Small monumental The Phillip johnson glass house and some of the LA case study houses look suprisinlgly monumental for their small size. I think it's the minimal geometry, single, large rectangular prisms with a dearth or projecting acrhitectural clutter, dormers, bays, porches etc. These two homes have just gone up across the street and while I welcome their modern intentions I suspect both will end up very diagnostic to the first decade of the 21st century. I'm not saying that's a terrible thing. My own house looks very dated. It's style is absolutely identifiable with the late 1930's idea of "modern" but now it's universally characterized as "art deco". The glass house and case study houses have a rare timelessness that's not reproducable with a simple formula. | |||||
| I agree with Leif about that | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| I agree with Leif about that side rail---I think that Møller's side rails are all the same. They all have an oval profile and are all straight, at least in my memory (and I've seen them all stripped down many times, though now having said that someone will come along with an example of one that's different--but not as different as the rail in the chair above!) The other thing that isn't Møller-ish about this chair is the way the front legs are closer together at the floor than at the seat. This reminds me of the Kai Christensen chairs that I used to own but got rid of, because the back legs angle rather sharply inward towards the floor. They got wobbly over time and I always thought it was a design flaw---seems like there is more stress on the joint with this angle than when they are perpendicular to the seat like on Møllers. | |||||
| LuciferSum | 1 Relevance | 20 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| LuciferSum How's it going? Are you done yet? (chuckling) I got all the pieces cut out and the welt made for my fourth knockoff which will be a 22nd birthday gift for kid #2. I got the leather stapled onto the headrest but that's it so far. Oh, and I got one button half done. We're also renovating a 12x32' room that will eventually showcase our better stuff that has been in storage in the attic, so the chair project is kinda on the back burner. No room to work on it, for one thing. What size hide did you end up getting? I got about 45 square feet and it is more than enough for the chair and ottoman. There were no flaws to work around in the hide, which helped a lot. It had an odd cutout but nothing that interfered with the layout of the pieces. It can be tricky to lay out the main blocks and still have enough length left to cut a continuous strip for each piece of welt. I try to have only one joint per welt on the finished chair section or ottoman. | |||||
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