Cleaning & Refinishing Moller 75 chairs  

The methods you describe will work nicely. 

I don't know anything about commercial brands of teak oil in France. Many in the US have added varnish, which is fine---but it means you have to use a slightly different method of application.  I use a brand in the US with no added varnish.  I just wipe it on, let it soak in for 10 minutes or so, then wipe off, let dry a few hours, then buff. 

Boiled linseed oil tends to be a friendly medium for mildew, at least where I live (humid summers).  

If you do the soap treatment on the seats, be sure that all of the soap is dissolved first.  Any little bits of undissolved soap will not magically disappear after they're in the woven cord and in fact they are not easy to remove once they get into the weave.  

Don't worry if you get a bit of oil on the cord---it might look bad at first but after awhile it will dissipate and the stain will eventually lighten to the point of becoming almost unnoticeable.  You can minimize the risk of getting oil on the seat by always working on a downward angle from the cord and by not applying an excessive amount of oil.  That's probably pretty obvious but if you're like me, you will start out being very careful and then get a bit too relaxed about it after awhile.  I don't bother to cover the cord---if you're reasonably careful, you can keep from getting oil on it.  I think covering it can create a sense of false security.  Oil can seep under the cover when you least expect it. 

Thank you for your reply,

I'll take your advice on avoiding the false sense of security of covering the cord! 

I'm in France too and I use Starbrite Premium Golden Teak Oil on my chairs. You can get it on line, but I buy from boat shops.
The wire wool / oil cleaning combo will work really well, 
Its not cheap, but buy the smallest bottle you can and store it well and you can reuse it when they need to be brightened up a bit.

A little will go a long way!

It might keep longest if you squeeze all of the air out of bottle before capping it tightly.  And maybe transfer it to a smaller container as you use it up.  I think it's the air in the bottle that causes it to eventually thicken and solidify.  (I could be quite wrong about this, too.)

Nope sounds right to me!

I have a couple of same chairs and want to replace the papercord on them. Does anybody know what kind of papercord better to use here? I saw in internet that papercords are of different thicknesses.

There's one vendor online--Frank's Cane & Rush Supply---who offers 1/8", 7/64", 7/32", etc., which is kind of confusing.  Just get 1/8".  I think some other vendors might not even mention the diameter, but it will be 1/8".  

There's also a 1/4" diameter paper cord but hardly anyone sells that and it's only used on a few designs.  The vast majority use 1/8", including Møllers.

Hi, I just found 2 Moller #68 chairs in the bushes. Yes, someone dumped these two chairs, apparently, they thought they were junk as the rope cord was coming apart. My win, as I was removing the rope cord prior to cleaning, I looked for any markings, and they are true J.L. Moller stamped.  I am going to clean them, and most likely upholster with an appropriate mid-century fabric. My question is how do I tell if they are teak, oak or cherry? In researching the Moller chairs, they did come in 3 wood options, and each a different finish soap wash or lacquer. And if I can't tell what kind of wood, can I use the Teak Oil anyway to clean?

Allright, thank you.

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You can post some well-focused closeups of various parts of the wood frames here and someone may be able to ID the wood for you.  Or you can look at other samples of those three wood species and learn the differences.  

That chair looks very dry and maybe sun-bleached, too.  It may take more than a finish to get it looking good again but it's hard to say from just that one photo. 

It's most likely teak, given that a lot more were made of teak than of cherry or oak.  

Is there some reason you don't want to redo the seats in paper cord?

Dear chairchat,

We have looked up some of the oils you can use for your chairs. If it's teak, linseed oil or a tung oil is preferred. If it's oak, tung oil or Danish oil if you're looking to bring out its rich tones, as well as preventing staining to the wood. If it's cherry wood here is a blog that explains all the pros and cons of the oils mentioned.

Link--> https://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/woodworking-101/tips-tricks/5-simple-cherry-wood-finishes/

All the best,

The Design Addict Team