Hi everyone,
I need to redo the webbing on my Grete Jalk chairs for P.Jeppesen.
For the moment they are incorrectly done in jute webbing, not even the right size.
So I'm about to order some pirelli rubber webbing, but how do I fix this to the frame?
Do I zigzag through the holes and place some sort of tack in the beginning and the end..?
Do any of you seen how this needs to be done? I would like to go as original and clean as possible.
That's my "before" photo of a chair that I redid a few years ago. The original webbing was extruded vinyl (photo below is of one that sold online, the only one I could find that showed the original webbing).
Do the slots accomodate the width of Pirelli webbing? I honestly don't remember. I do remember hunting around for something that would fit the slots.
You might be able to do anchor the webbing in each end by sticking a loop of it through the slot and inserting a dowel through the loop---IF the slot is wide enough to fit two layers of webbing through it. I don't remember this, either, but it is easy enough to check.
Looking around it seems a lot are done like this:
http://www.lauritz.com/Item/ItemImage/ItemImagePage.aspx?LanguageId=4&It...
http://www.lauritz.com/Item/ItemImage/ItemImagePage.aspx?LanguageId=2&It...
I just removed the cheap nylon straps from the Johannes Andersen P Jeppesen lounge chairs that I picked up a month ago. The seat support has a very similar design to the Jalk lounge chairs. I can confirm that the slots on the front are offset by half a module from the slots on the back (4 in front, 5 in back). Therefore, I think the zig-zag "W" pattern for a single strap is probably the correct original pattern.
On the underside, there is no groove below the slot where a cinch strap tightening (copyright to leif) would go. Mine had a DIY clamp by wrapping the strap around a scrap metal strip, then screwing it directly to the wood, so I cannot help on original strap fastening design.
The zig-zag pattern is definitely original and also very unusual.
I really like the riveted ends clearly visible in the 2nd photo link by Leif. Or maybe they're not rivets--?? Anyway, you can buy a Pop Rivet tool for under $30, I think. That should work nicely. Or maybe use a few threaded connectors----not sure that that's the right name? Threaded post connectors? One looks like a screw or bolt but the shank is hollow and threaded inside, and the other is a screw that screws into this.
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