Help to fix scratches on Eames red lounge chair?  

Addemdum
Doesn't look like you can edit posts here so I just want to add that these are the wooden lounge chairs (LCW) and not the shell chairs. I'm at a loss as to matching the stained red veneer and a viable method of repair.
http://www.highbrowfurniture.com/seating/products/lcw_chair/

I would buy some red dye,...
I would buy some red dye, paint, ink, oxide (art supply shop) and mix up a few different batches, put a few small scratches on the underside of the seat and rub into the scratches and let it dry, check which looks the best in normal lighting and then maybe a light waxing all over, test that first on the underside.

I thought
I had posted a reply. HP has a good procedural scheme -- but many kinds of red are available in fine-pointed markers available at the art store, so it shouldn't be necessary to mix your own. Just have a sample with you -- or buy a couple of markers (different brands) that you think are close. Try them on perhaps a manilla folder (to approximate the raw wood color).
In places where no color is missing, but a lighter scuff appears, just wax to bring back the right appearance. But apply wax or other clear finish only after you are done coloring -- you won't be able to color further.
I'd talk to Herman Miller for advice, as well. . .

Speak to Herman Miller - the ...
Speak to Herman Miller - the least they should be able to do is give you a pantone number for the correct shade of red which you can then get made up locally. If you want it to be perfect you'll also need to find out the type of paint and the degree of shine (given as a % value).

None of this
addresses filling the worst scratches -- if they are that deep. (Actually, I'm having trouble imagining such serious damage by a toddler -- have any of these scratches gone through the paint/stain to raw wood ?)
Filling involves other materials -- or a time-consuming process of adding clear lacquer, a layer at a time, with fine sanding in between, until the level of the surrounding wood has been reached. Adding wood filler, getting it to match the correct color, and adding a clear sealer coat, is work for a professional -- if it is advised at all.
SDR

Is it dye or paint? I...
Is it dye or paint? I allways thought it was dye. But yes of course, call Herman Miller *slaps head* I'm so used to living with things that aren't made anymore.

Sorry but I can't agree with...
Sorry but I can't agree with the 'call in a professional' mantra often heard on here. I gave up on so-called professionals about 10 years ago because I couldn't find one sufficiently sympathetic to modern (ie under 70 year old) furniture. So I taught myself french polishing as well as modern finishes, none of which are 'rocket science'. And because I don't own an electric sander and I don't have a friend in the caustic soda dipping business I now get better results than I've ever had from a professional restorer.

On the
Highbrow site the black chair is said to be "ebony" veneer. This has to be a mistake; the stained veneer chairs have always been ash or oak (?), to my knowledge -- this grain shows best through stain or paint, because of the open-grain texture. Walnut and cherry have been added. Ebony wood is very hard and tight-grained, usually with pronounced stripes of reddish-brown (Macassar Ebony).
"Ebonizing" is the practice of staining or painting wood black -- a faux finish, if you will.
SDR U S A

Herman Miller
Herman Miller uses a precatalyzed lacquer to paint the LCW's. The newest versions released in all the new colors are dyed - in the same manner as the originals.
Herman Miller's advice to me was simply to go to a craft store and buy red paint.

So, I'll
repeat my earlier advice: once you have found the right red pen or marker, you'll be able to do easy touch-ups when needed. Again, if the clear coat is damaged but no color is missing, just a little wax or oil on the spot will make it look much better. A dent or depression cannot easily be fixed (though you could try steaming, with a bit of water on a clean rag and a hot iron pressed to the folded cloth over the dent).
Remember that it's easy to make light wood darker, but very difficult to make dark wood lighter ! When touching up, work small and slow, starting with light colors and only going darker where required.

Lipstick
It's mostly a wax like base and you should have no trouble finding a shade that's a good match. Not a permanent fix.

Paulean
I agree with what Paulean said . I have so many of knoll, herman miller pieces i repair them my self I have the nelson primavera console piece ..every one said send it out to be repaired by a professional
I did it my self with a little xxxx
steel wool and finish from home depot and a marking pen light it looks wonderful !!! Not show room perfect but still has a nice patena on it . i also did this with several eames wood pieces and a Fritz Hansen Jacobsen table

paulanna
did not mean to slaughter your name ........
I got this new microsoft natural Ergonomic keyboard 4000 called the advanced Ergonomic Design and it has been very dfficult to get use to .
No doubt designed by some un real designer who wanted to save you from a life of being crippeled in the hands...
we need to get Koen, glassart, and DW wilsons take on the merits of this design . This could be a whole new debate on Ergonomic in the working place.

Thanks for all the advice
I think I'll go the red marker route. It won't be perfect, but at least it won't be bare wood showing through. Most of the scratches are the toddler, one is a pretty deep gash from the rivets on someone's jeans believe it or not! I know that the level of gloss won;t be the same, but alas. I also like the lipstick idea since it is oil-based but may rub off on clothes, only thing.