Eames 670 - Damaged in move  

It is sometimes possible to a perfect repair on a split in wood. By this I mean that the person repairing it can not even find the break afterwards and such a clean tight glue line is stronger than the wood.
I am guessing that perfection will not be possible here, but i don't think anyone can give you a reasonable educated guess of how far below perfection it might come out without photos.

As painful as it is (although I've certainly seen worse), here are some pics.

It could be worse (although if it were worse it might be better).
I don't know much about eames lounge chairs, and some other people here know a lot about them, so maybe they will chime in. I do know about repairing sod though. One challenge I notice is that the wood and shock mount will have to be simultaneously re-glued, with different glues that might not do well with being wet and next to each other and compressed into each others' space for clamping. (Or the wood could be glued, then the shock mount removed and a new one glued on).
The hardest part about re-gluing a thin piece of wood like that is getting it properly clamped across the whole surface area. Normally you can clamp two pieces of wood together and the strength of the wood pushes the whole glue area closed properly. A vacuum press would be very nice to have for that repair.
If there are any small fibers missing on the end grain side of the ear, the hole can be patched very well. On the side grain end it is a bit harder, but not to bad either.
I think it is very likely that the repair will require an operation somewhere that will cause the entire shell to need to be refinished if it is going to be done right. I have no idea how complicated it is to match the original finish.

Send pics to Herman Miller for an evaluation/estimate and negotiate settlement from there. The damage is to a critical structure that, once compromised, will always be suspect. ("But, your Honor, I can never feel completely comfortable in my four-thousand-dollar chair again!")
I'd want at least a new back panel. Typically, the veneers on 670/671 sets are matched sequentially, so you have a good case for all new panels, IMO. At the very least, settle for an HM-authorized repair.
As for possible devaluation, I'd say about a grand, or the cost of a new lower back panel.
Good luck. I hope you used a reputable moving company.

fell,
No kidding...should there be "any" resistance from the moving company a letter from a qualified attorney (no My Cousin Vinny) motivates most parties to respond in a prompt and positive manner (cost to defend vs. cost to restore).
The same theory applies to the moving company's agreement to except responsibility for the damage and financial commitment for the restoration (not repair) of the chair as does the actual restoration... Expect the best and plan for the worst. Persistence is a positive function in this situation.
This is why you have insurance. Let them do the work.

It seems so straightforward, does it not, niceguy? If only!
Unfortunately, the carrier's liability is (not so) clearly spelled out in the "Bill of Lading", which is often the only signed contract in a typical household move and is usually signed by the client in a shuffle of paperwork during the hectic goings-on of moving day. Typically, in the event of total loss, the carrier's liability is limited to a certain dollar amount per actual weight of shipped items (i.e. $.90/lb.) unless additional insurance is purchased by the client.

I tend to think that just the lower back panel doesn't do me much good since the other three (ottoman) have 6 years of aging/fading on them. I think I need to push for a full new set of panels or a high quality repair of the current back panel (if it's possible). -CF

You need a lawyer who can generate not just a one page nastygram, but in fact an entire box filled with pages of you complaint. With the nastygram up front, of course. And it doesn't really matter if the box is filled with 10 copies of the same material in random order. The point of the exercise would be measured in billable hours at their attorney's office.

Perhaps fell's biggest problem, if push comes to shove, is that the proprietors of (and attorneys for) many trucking companies located in and around NYC are, themselves, cousins named "Vinny".

tktoo,
I am fully aware of everything you suggest. The "key" is the "signed contract". All "excuses" including "hectic goings-on of moving day" for not reading or understanding the contractual agreement are unacceptable (or are the true reason for failure).
This is the time for "low friends in high places". It makes "billable hours" a non issue. A "rainmaker" is best.
If I was fell I would prepare to purchase 3M epoxy. Myself, I would be anticipating the arrival of a restored chair.
Years of practice being "niceguy" have their rewards.

UPDATE.
I am the new owner of these shells, purchased them off Ebay and randomly stumbled upon this post. What a coincidence! I have a plan for the restoration and currently I have been successful at separating the broken wood from this shock mount. It was quite easy as it seems that the original gluing seem to not set well which is supported by the way in which this failed. The glue is actually extremely brittle maybe due to heat. Going forward I plan on rejoining the veneer to the shell and then attaching the shock mount. I have not looked at the other mounts but plan to do so eventually.
Would it be better to use a new mount or just use the original. It seems like it is great condition.
I am willing to post progress photos if any are interested.
Devin

Hey!
Restoration is going great with this chair, shock mounts off (man those are a pain!) and the damaged veneer is reattached!
I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out if this shell is lacquer or oiled finished. I am on the fence and going back and fourth between each. Since it is a newer walnut shell (2010) I know the lacquer is an option. Just trying to figure this out before I begin sanding out scratches etc.
Thanks,
Devin

As soon as you sand you will know. Lacquer will be a thick layer that comes off as an opaque white powder. An oil finish will be basically indistinguishable from sanding wood.
If you have looked at enough lacquer finishes vs oil finishes you can tell just by looking, unless the lacquer finish was applied very very thinly. A lacquer finish will look like there is a finish on top of the wood. An oil finish very rarely looks like that.

Thanks for the reply Leif!
I tested a small section and sanded with 0000 steel wool. Low and behold white powder! Now there are some marks on the shell that will need to more intense sanding through the lacquer. What would you recommend I use to refinish after sanding is all said and done?
Thanks,
Devin