kin1117 -
My current plan is to carefully lift the "flap" to clean out any splinters underneath, inject the area with wood glue, then clamp so it dries flush. I'm thinking I might use JBWeld's wood filler to fill the screw holes then re-tap them once dry. All except for about 5mm of the splintered section is covered by the metal clip, so I'm not worried too much about cosmetics, but I want to make sure whatever I do holds strong.
It'll likely happen in the...
It'll likely happen in the spring when I re-oil the chair. For now I have the splintered section sealed off with some paper and masking tape and put the cushion back on it. I want to do plenty of research before I start going hogwild on a $8000 piece of furniture. At the moment I have some fractured aluminum group chairs I'm in the middle of bonding.
You could try plugs as well
bgillettephoto-
In the past I've drilled stripped screw holes out and glued in wood plugs (the same as you would use for covering screw heads). The plugs are then shaved flush with the surrounding surface and the holes are re-drilled for the screws. The two caveats are:
1) I've done this on walnut furniture with walnut plugs, and likewise on teak furniture with teak plugs. You might have a hard time finding matching wood plugs. You can buy drill bits to make your own if you're lucky enough to have some scrap lying around.
2) When re-drilling holes, if the new hole overlaps the plug and original piece, it will drift to the softer of the two (usually away from the plug. This can be solved with a drill press or appropriate pilot holes (or both).
I've never used this technique on laminate wood, however, so there are likely other concerns I've not considered.
TheMidCenturyBeehive -
Thanks for the suggestion. I hadn't thought of plugging it with wood. The reason I thought of using a filler is so that it would form exactly to the current hole's shape so that I wouldn't have to remove any more of the original material that hasn't been torn out.
Currently the area is covered and protected to prevent any further damage, and since it's a bottom clip for the ottoman it isn't necessary to make the cushion fit correctly. I don't plan on ever selling the chair so my plan is to leave it as-is until I can be sure I'll do it right or if I end up needing any other repairs, at which point I'll take it to a professional.
Your hippie burlap
looks like very appropriate tweedy wool. Does it help any to think of it that way? I'd leave it. But if you don't like the burlap-ish color, check out Maharam's Hallingdal for Kvadrat. You can even get it for less sometimes if you poke around online (modern-fabrics.com often has some).
http:///www.maharam.com/products/hallingdal-by-kvadrat/colors/773?view=detail
A couple of sets of dining chairs
The last two sets of dining chairs we've had. One is a nice set of Mollers that only needed a wipe-down with teak oil. The others are no-name teak chairs that I bought to practice Danish cord weaving (which went splendidly, thanks to advice on this forum from Spanky, TCHP, and others). The teak was refinished and the result is satisfactory given the quality of the pieces.
The Green Ant
Yes, that set went to The Green Ant. Ron already had a pair of captains, so our six gave him a set of eight. They sold the same day, but weren't picked up for a week or so.
We trade with Ron from time to time (just dropped off an Arthur Umanoff magazine rack and Milo Baughman for James Inc. club chair a couple of hours ago).
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