help needed for Wegner table  

Kitchen work top oil
Colron make it or TRIP TRAP in Denmark

It's almost impossible to go wrong
sticking to any "Danish" oil finish. As far as I can tell, they're all just slight variations on the same ancient formula, no matter the salesmanship. Buy fresh products in small quantities and use them up. Follow the directions on the container for best results. Avoid the rusty can that's been down the cellar for 20 years. After the finish has cured for a week, a coat or two of paste wax never hurts, though these should be removed with a little white spirits before re-oiling, a step we should probably make, anyway.
Some products might be slightly harder than others, but, really, it's the frequency of reapplication that matters. Some surfaces, depending on use and location, will require more frequent re-oiling than others.
Of course, someone will likely be along shortly to refute all of this and tout their favorite "Scan-Care" product.

thanks for the help but I'm not convinced
Vegetable based oil rubbed into wood. Grain and structure visible; darker than soap, creates luster and brings out contrast in grain and structure; darkness over time to reach a rich patina. Should be treated 2 times per year. Anyone can completly restore a table. Oil is more stain-resistant than soap.
Is this Mineral oil?
http://www.scandinavia-design.fr/carl-hansen-bois_en.html

Depends on whether or not you consider
flax seeds to be vegetables. Mineral oil is derived from petroleum and never really "dries". Danish oil finishes are primarily linseed oil with petroleum-based solvent and metallic salts added to ease application and shorten drying time. Some brands contain other additives to improve hardness, protection from liquids, and/or resist UV and mildew.