help ID a "wright" table, superfab golden stain/treatment  

FYI, you can search auction...
FYI, you can search auction results at Wright20.com

I don't know
what is meant by "Wright." The table appears to be a Parsons table (a style), hopefully of plywood (as opposed to MDF or particle board). The finish is a painted one -- there's no visible repeat to the pattern which would suggest plastic laminate or wood veneer. The "patches" visible on the underside, near the sash hardware installed to connect the halves of the table to its leaves, is likely the ghost of temporary scabs which held the table and its leaves together (with a tiny gap between parts ?) during the finishing processes.
The split between table halves is just visible in the first photo. I don't know what would keep this table structurally stable at the central joint(s). Are there dowels which penetrate the solid-wood aprons at the edge of the table ?

The burlwood surface does look printed, yes?
The hardware and general construction look rather pedestrian at best. And the table appears to sag a bit there in the middle. Not promising, but I've been wrong before.

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yup, late 90's faux tortoise shell finish. Good job though, construction poor, a screw pulls the leg inwards, there'll be dowels connecting rails to legs, often seen on cheap to mid level knock down chairs. Its called pocket hole isn't it?

This connection
of leg to aprons must be very old, as tables go. In this case, the joint can't be intended to knock down -- because of the paint job ?
The dowels, if they are present, don't even have to be glued to do their job: they are in shear (as the engineers say), and keep the leg from sliding in relation to the ends of the aprons. Of course, glue couldn't hurt, when a continuous surface between leg and apron is essential . . .

This
is how I would make a painted Parsons table. I developed this joint, ten years ago, to do a burlwood-veneered desk.
This was my trial sample. Although messy (the voids were filled before veneering), it is structurally sound.

Interesting technical exercise, SDR.
Nicely done, though I wonder if all that glue area is really necessary when a well-fitted double tenon is stronger than the wood itself.

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I think its been done with a wooden version of one of these and then veneered over the top...hard to tell from the pics though.

Glue is
stronger than wood, now. All other factors in wood joinery are dependent upon a number of variables -- I believe. We have trusted the mortise and tenon joint for eons, but like most traditional joinery it was designed as though glue were nonexistent -- or at best optional.
I am particularly interested in solving the problems of wood members connected at right angles to each other. I admit that my joint may be "unnecessarily strong" -- but as it was relatively easy to mill (on the table saw) and isn't exposed to view in the finished work, I thought it worthy of the effort.
How strong is too strong ?

That's right,
Heath -- though I believe we're talking about paint in this case, rather than veneer ?

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I meant veneered then painted, perhaps with that awful iron on stuff?
I feel like this poor fellows table is getting rubbished.
Oh no Gill Scott Heron has died, remember Whitey on the Moon? Last shuttle trip too.

Heh heh --
well, my table would have to be veneered on the top before being painted, too -- that chevron joint would surely telegraph through the paint, sooner or later.
Sorry about friend Gil. He "got sick after returning from Europe" -- what does that mean ?

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Sharp edged veneered furniture has never grabbed me, seen so many chips.
Mmmmm well I suppose its a bit funny, not him dying, Whitey On The Moon could easily be Whiteys Danish Sideboard.
But the revolution will not be televised, twittered maybe.

Speakings of joints and GHS.....
Speakings of joints and GHS...
I think GHS lived to see that the revolution has been televised, infinitely.