Thoughts on Watco oil products for teak  

I too wonder about this.
I have used watco often and like how easy it is but am curious about what was used originally on vintage Danish furniture. Also, what's the best finish for a Danish coffee or dining table that is likely to get food or drinks spilled on them?

Here's a link to an article that explains
the differences between finishes and brands, including Watch Danish oil and Watco Teak oil. It doesn't say whether they're better or worse for the wood than other finishes, and it doesn't say anything about straight up teak oil (if there is such a thing).
I use Star-Brite brand teak oil, which in my area is sold at Ace Hardware stores and marine supply stores. It doesn't seem to have much, if any, solvent in it. It smells like oil, not mineral spirits.
I have used wiping varnish on teak when I want a certain look but most of the time I just use teak oil.
Cheesedanish, I don't know about a more impervious finish---I guess the wiping varnishes afford more protection but they're still not like polyurethane where you pretty much don't have to worry about anything at all. I would just be vigilant about coasters and placemats. If you have big dinners with kids and/or drunks and you just want to enjoy yourselves and not worry about the table, you can get protective boards made and then use a tablecloth liner and a beautiful tablecloth. Leave the table bare the rest of the time. I love my teak dining table but I really don't enjoy having to keep an eye peeled for drips and blops when we're eating good food and having great conversation.
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-thei...

Thanks for the reply...
Thanks for the reply Spanky!
Does anyone know if there are long term negatives for using it- makes the finish gummy over time, makes finish cloudy, turns teak an odd orange color?
I have seen some weird things happen to old teak finishes and in the past I had no problem re-sanding, but when it came time to re-oil I used Watco- anyone know if I am just reintroducing problems or if there is a far superior teak oil product.
I guess a simpler way to ask would whats your favorite teak oil and why?
Thanks again.

Both
I have used both the Watco teak and Danish oils, and have not found any noticeable difference in their working or final properties. They are good for the earlier Danish furniture that had a soaked in type finish but not great for later pieces, especially table tops. They will soak into scratches, and on the earlier pieces the scratches blend away, but on the later stuff the places with finish loss get dark and stick out like crazy. It is the difference between the original finish sitting on top of the wood, and the oil finish soaking in.

I like Star-brite Teak Oil because
it's just oil, no varnishes. I find that when I use the brands that have varnish in them, it sometimes dries with a little too much gloss, even if it's supposed to be low sheen. Then i have to go over it again with #0000 steel wool to knock it down to a warm glow. Whereas with the Star-Brite brand oil, I get that right away without the fussing later.
Also, I can use the Star-Brite oil without worrying about inhaling solvent odors. I do have a respirator but it's nice not to have to wear it. Not that that has anything to do with the look or durability of the finish, just a nice bonus.
eta: oh, and sometimes there are little dust specks that dry in the varnish/oil finish and then I have to smooth those out. It just always looks a bit like a less-than-great refinish job that needs to be gone over again before I get the age-old patina that I'm after.

Scan-Care and Flag Teak Oil
Have used both of these products and found them to be the best for treating my indoor teak furniture. You can find the Flag products on eBay and ScanCare Teak Oil here,
http://www.scancare.net/RETAIL_CATALOG.html

Darkening teak
I've used watco teak oil before, and it can darken teak in my experience. I like Formby's tung oil finish in low gloss (note it isn't tung oil, in spite of the label).
For a really high end piece, you might procure a piece of scrap teak and try a variety of finishes/brands to see what you like. One thing you might make sure to try is pure tung oil. My father who designed furniture in the 60s insists the Danes used lemon oil frequently.

A cautionary note with tung oil,
I agree with Leif, tung oil is worth considering. I have used it with increasing success as my experience using it has grown.
Pure tung oil is just that, pure tung oil. Having no drying agents, more time is required between coats...a lot more time.
My first go at it was on a teak desk, using tung oil, superfine sanding between coats, and what I thought was enough drying time in between...it wasn't, ending up a gummy mess to sand off.
I would recommend at least 3 or 4 days in between coats. It does leave the wood with a nice feel and the little grace time it affords for cleaning up spills doesn't hurt either.
The added bonus having no harsh chemicals, and can be used indoors if you're spacially challenged.

WOW! Thank you all so much f...
WOW! Thank you all so much for your advice and input!
I totally agree about the Watco darkening the finish on teak pieces as well as highlighting scratches/imperfections.
I can't wait to check all of these suggestions out!