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leif ericson - Zephyr Renner
(@leif-ericson)
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26/03/2014 10:19 pm  

Get the whole piece of wood...
Get the whole piece of wood shipped to you. Then mark out exactly the square you want cut out of it. And get some strapping young buck or horny old guy to cut it for you.


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Mark
 Mark
(@mark)
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26/03/2014 10:53 pm  

10-4.
.


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Mark
 Mark
(@mark)
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26/03/2014 11:21 pm  

Hey leif,
The seller seems like a solid ebayer, and will cut the piece to exact size, picking the nicest part of the grain. Now the prior (broken?) glass top was probably 3/8 inch thick...and this slab is much thicker. That should look fine. What do you suppose I'd have to do to it to make the finish look sweet? Maybe an oil? or would I have to sand, etc? Sorry for all of the questions. I love teak.
Best,
Aunt Teak


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leif ericson - Zephyr Renner
(@leif-ericson)
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26/03/2014 11:44 pm  

Generally you would flatten...
Generally you would flatten the surface with a sander and coarse sand paper. Then you move into sanding it final smoothness, progressively moving up through the grits of paper until it is as smooth as you want it. I usually sand teak up to 220 with a little palm sander I have.
If it is already flat and fairly smooth you can obviously skip the coarse sanding and go straight to finish sanding.
For finishing teak I generally use Formby's Tung Oil Finish in low gloss, which is available at the paint section in HomeDepot and Lowes around here. But most any oil product will make it look beautiful. Only thing I would avoid is a tinted oil, as the teak is already the color you want it to be.


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leif ericson - Zephyr Renner
(@leif-ericson)
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26/03/2014 11:48 pm  

Oh, and you pour on the oil....
Oh, and you pour on the oil. Wipe it around with a rag. Let it sit for a few minutes, and wipe off any excess.
I usually let it dry at this point for at least a few hours, then gently rub the surface down with 0000 steel wool, to remove any bumps, and oil it again.
I usually put 3 or 4 coats on a fresh surface. Which sounds like a lot until you realize it takes a few seconds to wipe on a coat of oil.


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rosewood
(@rosewood)
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Joined: 6 years ago
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27/03/2014 12:12 am  

Teak top
I like the look of the teak next to the stainless. How about a reversible top? Get one side 'concaved' by a woodworker and use that side for fruit, etc. (ala Jens Quistgaard).


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Starline
(@starline)
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Joined: 15 years ago
Posts: 172
27/03/2014 3:41 am  

Personally I think timber...
Personally I think timber cannot do it justice and drags it down.
I would go stone as it's far more glamorous and will make it look more high end..
I don't think full black suits your interior.
If white for me only Calacutta Oro or Gold but pick as much gold in piece as possible.
Otherwise I would maybe look at a rich Onyx,travertine or a St Laurent Marble for dark but not black.
I know you don't want glass but if you set the stone down 7mm and then get a 6mm piece of glass to sit on clear lugs so it sits down flush with s/s frame can be another classy look.Also protects stone and you can save on not having to fully polish finish the stone piece.
The stone should be sealed from drink spills though whether using glass over it or not..
Anyway decisions are always hard so good luck.


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Mark
 Mark
(@mark)
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27/03/2014 4:08 am  

So noted, Starline.
And thank you for your input! I've never considered layering stone and glass. Interesting....very interesting. Thanks also to leif for providing the above ebay site, hopefully the seller "Ryan"( who seems to be very good at what he does), and I can put something together. I will certainly post before and after snappies giving proper credits, etc. This is my first dumpster find, and I am way too excited about it. I need a puff.
Bar's open, order up,
Aunt Mark


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waffle
(@waffle)
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Posts: 1324
27/03/2014 4:16 am  

hum
I like contrasts. Roughish wood like that pictured works for me big time. Stone just feels too...1980's for me (at least with that base)


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Mark
 Mark
(@mark)
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27/03/2014 4:33 pm  

Hi again, leif.
The seller and I put together a situation where he will be cutting my piece, and I have no use for the scraps...I just want one piece 15.5" square. This mornings question for you...what part of the slab above would be the best choice? I tend to like the wide swirls located near the bottom. Thoughts? I very much appreciate your input on this project. Without your stellar advice, the piece would have probably been returned to the dumpster. Drinks are on me.
Many Thanks,
Aunt Mark
ps final pictures to be posted, natch.


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leif ericson - Zephyr Renner
(@leif-ericson)
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27/03/2014 5:04 pm  

Yep, use the part you like th...
Yep, use the part you like the most.


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SDR
 SDR
(@sdr)
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Posts: 6462
27/03/2014 9:14 pm  

You might want to
check that your frame is truly square. Measure each side (inside or out, doesn't matter) to assure that those measurements are all alike, then use your tape, yardstick, or scrap stick to measure the diagonals.
If it isn't perfect in this regard, to play it safe, I would have the seller send you a piece at least one inch larger in both directions than your frame. Take frame and wood to the local wood shop, and ask them to fit the one to the other. If the frame isn't a perfect square, have the shop mark the wood and the frame so you can easily place and re-place it.
It would be good to know if it's truly flat, too, before you decide to have the top sit flush with the frame. You can easily sight this, comparing the near and far edges of the frame, with your eye level with the top plane.


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leif ericson - Zephyr Renner
(@leif-ericson)
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Joined: 15 years ago
Posts: 5660
27/03/2014 11:01 pm  

And I would second SDR's...
And I would second SDR's advice. In fact I'd get the seller to send you the whole piece, and take it an the frame down to the shop and tell them to handle it.


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Spanky
(@spanky)
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Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 4376
28/03/2014 1:04 am  

YES!
what SDR said! I have a steel coffee table base for which I had a wood top made exactly to fit (like a Florence Knoll coffee table). The damn base was out of square by a tiny bit and I had to get a whole new top made. I thought I would get used to that little 1/8" of the base top showing...but I did not.


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Mark
 Mark
(@mark)
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28/03/2014 2:46 am  

Many thanks all!
I measured the inside and outside edge of the steel frame using a steel yard-stick. The inside measurement is 15 3/4 " all the way around the block. I'm having the chunk-o-wood cut to 15 1/2 " , as to allow a slight gap. The top will actually rise above the rim of the steel top by approximately 1 inch, as it is 1 3/8" thick. The whole project will cost less than a dinner out. If it doesn't work out, ....oh well.
I appreciate all of your thoughts. I've never done anything like this before. I feel love. I feel teak. I feel blazed.
Aunt Mark


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