Note: When I say "sticky" I refer not to the track (which is not perfect, either), but rather this (my predicament):
Among other repairs, I reconditioned this piece with 000 steel wool and teak oil, going over it with a final coat of linseed oil. The problem is that the doors now click when sliding into the back, because the individual joints of the tambour door are sticky from linseed/teak oil. I have let them dry for over a week and they continue to clack as they slide into the back. The clacking stops after one or two slides, but returns a day later.
I am considering going over the doors with a little olive oil and lemon juice, though I really don't know what to do...
What do you think?
Bonus challenge: ID
I have seen the Svend Larsen tambour credenza in both teak and rosewood that is nearly identical to this one; however, the pulls are different--these pulls are trapezoidal instead of perfect rectangles. Another difference is the inner drawers--they have a different cut (no picture, as of now). Additionally, the back of this piece is not finished, as I the Svend Larsen is. I have heard the name Ib Kofod Larsen a few times in my research, and perhaps he is the designer--though a friend of mine suggests that maybe they are just the same person. There is a Faarup Mobelfabrik stamp on the backboard. Also, no "Danish Furniture Makers Control" stamp or sticker.
Many thanks for your ideas.
http://furnishmevintage.com/general/long-svend-aage-larsen-danish-teak-credenza/ 
<img class="wpforo-default
Tsk, tsk --
such timid advice !
Unfortunately, the remedy requires access to a place where the tambour is bent -- where it goes around the corner. Better yet would be to have the tambour out of the case. I haven't played with one of these cabinets; is the back removable ?
The remedy, of course, is to open the space between each slat and, with cloth and solvent (mineral spirit ?) remove excess dressing from the wood. I'd guess that more oil was added to the surface than strictly necessary . . . ? In any event, I can imagine no other way to correct the situation. I'd do it before the oil dries any more.
Thanks SDR
Mineral spirits were my first thought, but I didn't want to take a step backwards having just reconditioned the tambour doors--as the mineral spirits would wear away the linseed, which would ultimately need to be applied again.
In regards to the doors coming off: They do indeed! I removed the back and one door to repair a veneer chip. The pulls were merely screwed on, which after removing, allowed the doors to slip through all the way out the back. No mysteries with tambour--it's so simple: just slats glued to burlap. Such a beautiful design...However, one door was impossible to remove (possibly due to warping), so it stayed in.
At any rate, before realizing the clacking, I had the pulls wood welded on--which was perhaps not the best idea. They are going to remain there possibly until the end of time.
What I ended up doing this evening was applying a coat of olive oil (sans lemon juice) and removing all of the excess--my line of thought being that the oil would slip into the tambour joints and lubricate. From the back I was able to do about 60% of the door on the corner with open space between the slats. Thus far, it seems to have worked as planned and, additionally, made the doors MUCH smoother.
My neighbor uses olive oil (+ lemon juice) on all of his wood furniture and I've yet to smell it go rank, which I imagine can happen. Having removed all of the excess, I feel quite confident I have fixed the doors. I will know for sure tomorrow...
When I have good photography on the finished credenza, I will be sure to post.
Many thanks!
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