Reweaving Moller chairs with new paper cord - advice please  

This tutorial from thcp is...
This tutorial from tchp is extremely helpful
http://www.thomaspenrose.com/diy_cord01.htm

Thanks jesgord. I have had...
Thanks jesgord. I have had that tutorial bookmarked for some time, and have read it carefully. It is extremely helpful, but it doesn't seem to answer my question.
It says on page 2, to:
"use a cut tack to attached cord from your roll of replacement cord, and wrap it up and over the first nail head on the front rail, as in the image. Then pull it under and up over the top of the chair's front rail, and pull the cord back toward the back rail of the chair."
It would seem that the cord is used directly from the roll, but I don't see how this is possible! If the end piece is attached to the chair, as shown in the image, how does one manage to wrap the rest of the cord when there is no other loose end? Or in other words, if the rest of the cord is part of the roll, how do you wrap the cord around the chair frame?
Not sure if I am making sense. I am sure that I am missing something obvious here.

Yes, the cord is used directly from the roll
on chairs like the 75 where there is no extra wrapping on the side rail. (Wegner CH23 is an example of extra wrapping on the side rail.)
In that tutorial on page 6 you can see how the side-to-side weaving is dong with a loop of cord at the leading end. You are weaving two strands at once with a loop at the leading end. When you hook the loop on the L-nail on the far rail, you will already have the return strand in place because you did two at once.
Then all you have to do is pull it tight, loop it around a nail on the opposite side, pull a little more cord off the spool and weave another double strand.
If you just try it, you'll have a huge EUREKA! moment. I remember when I first read directions on how to do it, I did not understand it at all. But then I went ahead and tried in in spite of being confused, and suddenly it made sense and seemed very easy!
If you do Espen's method of weaving to the middle and then starting again at the other side and weaving to the middle, you will have to cut the cord after the first half and start a new loop on the second half. I tried this method and did n0t find it much easier than weaving the seat in one go, for some reason. I do start at the back and work towards the front. I find it easier to not have to reach across the whole seat when I get to the really tight weaving at the end.

also,
you'll notice that as you pull cord from the spool the cord itself will get twisted tighter and tighter until it starts kinking. The solution is to just rotate the spool a few turns each time you pull a length off. This is easier to do if you put the spool in a bowl, then just rotate the bowl. You want to keep the loops of cord from getting caught in each other as you pull the cord off the spool. It's very, very easy to create huge tangles in a short amount of time, which then take a very long time to untangle. As me how I know this.

.
The warp is done differently than the weft.
The warp is obviously done first. Start the warp at the thinnest point of the front or back rail. With a møller, the front and back rails are uniform thickness, so lets make,this easy and start at the front left corner.
I don't do the warp as one piece of cord, that is unnecessary. Cut a long piece of cord, maybe 10, or 20 meters. Bundle it into a sheaf. And note, the longer you cut it the higher likelihood the whole warp will be done with one piece of cord, but also the higher likelihood you end up with a waste extra piece.
So tack the end of the corner to the front left inside of the rail. Do the first two couplets of warp, front to back, looping them on the warp nails.. Then wrap the front rail until you reach the next warp nail, then do the first single couplet of warp, and proceed wrapping the front rail, and doing couplets of warp until the front rail is fully wrapped. If at any point you run out of cord, tack it behind the rail, trim it, and carry on with a new piece.
Now you need to fill in the gaps around the rear rail. So cut a short piece and tack it on and wrap, jumping the warp couplets on the inside of the rail when you reach them. Again, if you cut too short, tack the end, trim, and tack on a new length.
Now you are ready to do the weft. This CAN be done off the spool as one piece, easily. I start at the rear right. Set the spool on the right side of the chair, in a box, with a hole cut in the top, out of which comes the cord, and the cord comes off the INSIDE of the spool. Weave a couplet of cord left, pull tight when you come out the left side, and catch the loop on the nail. Pull the continuing cord tight on the right, and catch it on the right side nail. Weave the next couplet. Two couplets hang on each nail.
When you get to the end, tack the cord, trim, and you are done.

Spanky:
Re kinky, twisted cord: your bowl trick should work, but have you tried the box and pulling from the inside of the roll? I've never tried a it with a bowl pulling from the outside, but it seems the bowl might get away me.
If you pull from the inside of the roll and put the roll in a closed box with a hole in the top, nothing needs to spin, and no kinks either.

Leif
Actually, I do pull from the inside of the spool! It has to do with the cord being coiled, I think. You have to undo the coil as you go.
I have the 20lb coil, which is harder to manage. I put it in one of those huge stainless steel salad bowls on carpet, which worked pretty well. Later I tried a round plastic tote from ikea (no longer made). I have a big lazy susan turntable that I'm going to rig up soon, which I think will be the best solution.
The trick in avoiding tangles (as differentiated from kinks) is to keep the cord from catching on loops of other cord in the spool as you pull it out. It will catch on loops of cord whether you pull it from the inside of the spool or the outside. It's much easier to tangle the 20lb spool that it is the 2lb spool, I guess because there are just more loops to be caught, the 20lb spool being about 14" high vs. 4" for the 2lb.
Once you catch a few loops in pulling the cord off, it just escalates very quickly. I have spent an hour or more undoing a mess that took only 5 minutes to form, that's why I've devised all these seemingly crazy tricks. They actually save me time and much frustration! Of course, it would have been better if I'd figured all this out before I'd done 30-40 chairs, but better late than never...?

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Interesting. Must be the 20lb spools get more tangled. I use the 2lb ones. But that is because I am a dilettante in comparison to you, Spanky.

Yeah, the big ones are messier,
but I've gotten myself into plenty of tangles with the 2lb ones, too. Maybe I'm just a klutz!

I use 2lb coils and it seems...
I use 2lb coils and it seems like some coils twist more than others. I've been using my wife's cake turntable (I think I got that idea from *spanky*). It works very well with new coils, but as the coil is depleted it gets lighter and tends to slide off of the turntable rather than turning it.
I intend to make something similar to a cable reel rack that the coil would slide onto and spin freely, but I don't have a shop right now as I'm in between houses, so it'll have to wait. If it works out, I'll post it.

Thanks!
spanky, leif, thanks a lot! That was exactly the information I needed.
I'm off to order the coils now (the 5 kg variants).
How many nails do you reckon I will need to replace per chair? I want to order them as well.

Nails-
Probably 76 per chair but get a few more just in case.