Dana
Get yourself to an Ace Hardware store for some Star-Brite brand teak oil. If you're near a body of water, a boating supply store might also carry it but Ace generally has it.
This brand seems to have way less solvents in it for whatever reason. I like it a lot.
That's all you need to do. The oil loosens the grime and the steel wool helps to buff it away. Wipe the dirty oil off. Apply more oil if the wood is really dry, let sit for 5 minutes, maybe 10, then wipe off. Come back in half an hour or so and buff with a clean, dry cloth. Done.
Thank you!!
I was fortunate to stumble upon four chairs in my local flea shop that upon inspection and research turned out to be Moller 71's... Poor things had been varnished and modified to fit a piece of plywood in them to hold a tie on cushion (shudder). But even still, I could see the tremendous potential in them.
After a brief look into re-upholstery, I stumbled across these threads and was thrilled that re-cording was such an attainable way to restore them. Given that the nail holes were there, it also made sense to try and bring them back to their original state.
I just wanted to put out a thank you to everyone on this forum for the inspiration and enthusiasm and for sharing all of your experience and suggestions. Particularly tchp for your invaluable link to your photo step by step and to *spanky* for the encouragement to give it a go.
I just finished my first chair last night and am so very happy with the results!
Again, thank you all!
I replaced the cord on my fir...
I replaced the cord on my first Moller bench this past weekend. Took quite a lot longer than a chair, that is for sure.
Incidentally, I found a source in the U.S. for black Danish cord. http://www.caneandbasket.com in Los Angeles (I don't think I have seen this source cited on the forum before...) It is sold in 2 lb coils for around $36 each. It is not listed on their website, so you have to call in the order. I just ordered 10 coils after they sent me a sample, so I don't know what their remaining stock is right now.
http://www.caneandbasket.com
Thanks! This time...
Thanks!
This time around I had a chance to try Firkel's good advice (he's the guy who weaves chairs at the Moller factory), and started weaving on one side, then wove back toward the center from the other side. This made fitting in the final weaves a lot easier. This method also works very well for chairs, of course.
You have to find room to do an odd number of weaves, and in the end I had to work hard to fit them all in.
I've discovered a new tool.
I'm doing the back of this Wegner CH25 chair and it's woven on both sides which makes it really tough to do the last few rows. Normally I would poke the double weft strand between the warp strands and poke it back up from underneath, but there's even less room than usual to do that.
So, I tried an aluminum crochet hook and voilà! Works great! It's smooth and the hook end is tapered so it's easy to stick between strands. I wish I'd thought of it 20 chairs ago. Oh well.
I am using a US size "J". You could go a size or two bigger but I wouldn't go much smaller. You can get these anywhere that sells yarn--craft stores, fabric stores, yarn shops. Or raid your nearest crocheter's work basket.
This morning I wove the first...
This morning I wove the first black cord seat on one of the ten black Moller chairs that I have. I have had the chairs for several years, and really had to wait a long time to find a source for black cord before I could re-do the seats. I figured that a black set of chairs deserved black cord. The end result surpassed my expectations, and I really like them a lot.
Leif, They were painted at...
Leif,
They were painted at the Moller factory with a brush. Some kind of lacquer I assume.
The wood is oak, possibly, although I can't rule out beech, or even a mixture of different woods. I think all of the wood used is blonde colored, and that there is no teak or other darker wood.
If you need any help, please contact us at – info@designaddict.com