Remove Water Mark from Eames Walnut Stool  

How about taking it to a...
How about taking it to a competent furniture restorer? Its a good piece and deserves it. By all means learn about furniture restoration and practice on pieces that cost you a few $$ or ££'s. I restore my own furniture and have been doing so for about 15 years but a good job takes time, skill, knowledge and experience. I'm afraid to say that on this site you'll get some good advice on this subject but you'll also get advice which, well meaning as it is, will just damage your furniture. If you're happy to pay money for someone to fix something totally unimportant like a car or a broken washing machine why attempt DIY on a piece of art?

Gunstock Oil finish
The walnut stools are finished with gunstock oil. At the hardware store I recall seeing a dozen different products available. All you really need to do is take 10 minutes to read the fine print on the back and you're usually good to go.
Or take Paulannas advice and be off to the restorer.

how about
a way to repair a big crack in a stool?? loooooooool.
🙁

Oh darn wood. So lovely...
Oh darn wood. So lovely but very temperamental.
I just repaired a Georg Jensen ice bucket that spit in two. Not fun.
I was using it as a kitchen compost bucket. Not designed for moisture?
nope, not 24/7 anyway.
DLD. I would take it to good restorer. It is not difficult to fix, but if you are nervous and clearly love this piece, as i do, Paulanna is correct.
And not a bad idea to later practice on a crap piece if it interests you.
Water marks are such a common problem that i doubt it will break the bank.
And easy to transport unlike a big hutch or table.
In NYC, this is where i would go...
http://www.oleklejbzon.com/index.htm

god
damn wood... why can't you be more like plastic?!!

I'd
go there just for the music !
[Geez I wish we could see the thread while writing !] Lots of better advice as we go, here. I assume the mark is on the flat top surface, in which case a bit of skillful power sanding, followed by re-oiling, would be the thing if the stain has penetrated into the end grain (certainly a possibility) and nothing else works. Heated remedies are making me nervous, so far; the only time I use heat is when steaming out dents, which works well depending on specie and conditions. . .
Polyurethane glue and teak (and moisture) go together well. The tan squeeze-out is dry and 'fluffy' and removes easily by cutting, scraping or sanding. It usually accepts stain and other finishes well -- more invisibly than yellow glue does. I use it more and more. (It stains flesh for a couple of days, so wear gloves if you're a hand model !)
[okay, I admit it -- spellchek is useful. my iMac's latest upgrade included it, for the first time. . .]

funny,
pippo ! So true. . .though wood repairs far easier than plastic, in most cases (?). I've pulled off a number of invisible "dutchmen" in my time, if I do say so.

the top of the stool in...
the top of the stool in question is slightly concave, i believe.
A fresh water stain on a new finish should not penetrate so deep.
Maybe just a cloud.
I have a few Paul Mcobb orphans, from parents and in-laws that were
used for plants and shoes. A few dozen water marks that are clearly deep
and have raised the finish. And the household,(eh-hem), seems to ignore coasters.
Needs a full refinish. Not a huge Mcobb fan so i'm in no hurry.
But...a fresh scotch cloud ring, maybe a week old, disappeared with a gentle
whisper wipe of denatured alcohol. Shellac finish i would guess.
I'll try the hot iron/t-shirt Heloise helpful hint next...
Isn't formica grand.

Feeling brave
Okay, I did a massive amount of research today and fired off a few emails for quotes. The watermark is a few months old. I'm going to try ess invasive methods then I'll graduate to denatured alcohol if the previous methods don't work AND if that doesn't work I'll leave it up to the pro's. I will report back and let everyone know what happened. (unless I chicken out again, LOL)

If you try denatured...
If you try denatured alcohol, put a itty bit, a dot, on a q-tip, and dry it off.
(dry off the Q-tip so it is not saturated)
Just give the haze a little touch. It will be obvious right away. No harm done if it
does not work.

SDR, you steam out dents?
I'm impressed-- care to give us a description of the process? Is this something that an utter novice/ Sunday re-finisher (like myself) could pull off?

i
oiled my stool yesterday and the wood looks great now, but i noticed three more cracks.
🙁 🙁 🙁

Embrace the cracks
A natural tendency in the material. All part of the patination that tells you it isn't synthetic.

true
but i would be much more embracing if it was made from a single block of walnut.

Mayonaisse...
it really does work. My dad has been using it for years as part of his antique clock restoration...that and dainish finishing oil. No abrasives!