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Paul McCobb Credenza -- refinish or not?  

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DMarie T
(@teolisdyahoo-com)
New Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 2
05/02/2015 1:58 am  

Hello,New to this forum and hope to learn as I just started purchasing a few items.I recently purchased a Paul McCobb Planner Group credenza,.  Unfortunately, the seller used Watco Danish Oil to "restore" it (he didn't strip, etc. -- just put the oil on top and wiped off)..  The finish is full of small bubbles and feels very rough. I guess he was trying to cover up the small scratches in the surface and brighten it up.  Otherwise the piece is in very good shape (no dents, no major/deep scratches, no integrity issues).  I want to keep this item in my home for severaLyears so I am interested in having it professionally refinished. Any tips/suggestions?  Is this even advisable?  Any idea on a reasonable cost?I am attaching two pics (took the grasscloth doors off to clean).  In the pictures it is difficult to see the bubbly finish and I did not take a close-up shot, but can try if that helps.Thank you,GinGin


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Tex Brufer
(@tex-brufer)
Reputable Member
Joined: 14 years ago
Posts: 112
05/02/2015 7:16 am  

Welcome, 
I hope this helps you in some way.
I recently (unprofessionally) refinished a Paul McCobb Irwin collection credenza. After stripping off the old stain/poly finish  (nasty chemicals involved)  I found what I believe to be bleached mahogany veneer. It was originally stained a dark brown similar to your piece. 
I had to sand the veneer aggressively until I could get back some of the natural reddish color. I admittedly sanded through the veneer in a few small places. I sanded with 120, 150, 220, 320 and still did not get a thoroughly uniform color. In the places where I sanded adequately the mahogany was beautiful. To finish it, I applied BLO with 0000 steel wool. Hopefully in 10 years It will develop a darker even patina. 
If you want to tackle this project yourself:
Its doable but wont be perfect
consider only refinishing the top and sides, the cabinets will be very difficult
lots of sawdust and the chemicals are very harsh on skin and lungs
you will hurt the resale value
minimal out of pocket costs 
ff you want to pay someone else to refinish it:.
it will be expensive, most restorers dont like working with methylene chloride either
will look better, but still may not be perfect
you will have more in it then you can resell it for
value will stay the same or maybe increase over time (depending on desirablitly)
 
If you love the piece, are a perfectionist, and plan to hold onto it then resell, I'd say its worth hiring someone to restore. If you like hands on projects, and have any inclination for woodworking, this is not a bad place to start. Take your time and you will likey be the only one who notices your mistakes.
 
Paul Mccobb is not skyrocketing in price; don’t let 1st dibs fool you. Nonetheless, as a Bostonian, I have utmost respect for his work 
Best of luck. 
 


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DMarie T
(@teolisdyahoo-com)
New Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 2
05/02/2015 4:29 pm  

Tex,
Thank you for your input.  I have refinished a handful of items but I really don't want to do this myself.  I paid less than $500 for the credenza off of Craigslist and would be okay spending another $500 (max $700).  I have no plans to sell it and I am a bit of a perfectionist (hence why I don't want to tackle this refinish job)..  I may do as you suggest and not have the refinisher do the veneer -- only the sides and top and the drawer fronts).  I am most concerned with the tops and sides that are filled with very rough spots all over due to the fact that the Watco just dried on top of the existing finish and did not penetrate the wood. 
I realize that this piece is what some may called "pretty common", but I like it a lot.  I agree about 1stDibs (and I imagine that has been discussed quite a bit on this forum). This same piece is available for $3900 currently on 1stDibs and I must say I am absolutely dumbfounded about that.  I feel the credenza would be worth about $1200 after a professional refinishing but just wanted to get others advice since I am rather new to purchasing vintage.
I will comment about one product I have used that I love for giving back luster without stripping and that is Howard's (I am sure that has been discussed here as well).  Howard's worked great on a set of Hibriten walnut chairs that I purchased and a table, but like the Watco, I think it is inappropriate on this piece (I tried it on a small area of the drawer front and it just "sat").. 
If you want to try a stripper that has no harsh smells, is gentle on the skin if it splashes, etc., then try CitiStrip available at HD or Lowes.  I recently stripped a bathroom cabinet and a bookcase with it and really liked it.  And for staining, painting, I am a fan of General Finishes out of Wisconsin. 
--GinGin
P.S. I am in the Detroit area and if anyone has a refinisher they would recommend, that would be great.  Advice is still welcome as well!


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gropius
(@gropius)
Honorable Member
Joined: 14 years ago
Posts: 135
05/02/2015 5:38 pm  

It sounds like your main concern is the Watco oil that was rubbed on. Why not try to remove that without removing the original finish? I would guess that a good outdoor scrubbing with lots of paint thinner/mineral spirits may work? Then you could assess whether it is fine as is, or whether all it needs is a light sanding and coat of stain/poly finish compatible with what is there originally. That would be a lot less work, and less expensive to hire out. Note that I haven't tried this, so you might want to consult with whoever you would hire to do the work for their advice.


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