I have the opportunity to buy a Paul McCobb Planner Group desk. I don't need the desk (I have a bad habit of collecting things I like), it's in decent condition (some scuffs, scratches, stains) and I think it's reasonably priced for it's condition ($350). In my opinion, it would need a refinish, but I'm wondering if anybody has any experience refinishing the Planner Group furniture, or if it's actually deleterious to attempt to refinish. I do have experience refinishing furniture so it wouldn't be the first time for me.
Yes.
McCobb pieces are my favorite to refinish. With all of the straight lines and parts that easily come off, they are very easy to work with. I've been trying hard to find a Planner Group desk with 2 drawers for $350 for several years. I recommend using a stain preconditioner because the wood might come out blotchy if you don't.
Planner Refinish
I thought I'd get in on the refinish thread. I just found this one, and in need of a re-Fi. A little exploration with a stripper revealed a black coat of paint and then the rust colored one as pictured.
I'd like to do it myself, and would appreciate any advice as to how to remove the paint. As for finishes, I think I would like to go with the Natural or possibly the Tobacco.
Tobacco
I will tell you this- when I refinish, I do it because I want to use that piece in my house. I am no expert by any means and am not a purest. With that being said- I like to use Minwax Gunstock stain with a low gloss poly. I have found that the grain shows through more than the original finish.
@diors tips on refinishing
I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL.
But, from my personal experience, you can get a paint gel or spray stripper at any home improvement store. Remove all the drawers / hardware and start one panel at a time. Let the stripper sit per directions on the product and then scrape off using a PLASTIC putty knife. You will most likely need to do this multiple times. For hard to reach places use #1 steel wool to remove the old finish. Also, on your last stripping process use steel wool and be sure to rub with the grain of the wood.
When you have adequately removed the old paint / finish, wipe clean with mineral spirits / acetone and sand smooth with 160 grit sandpaper. Be careful on any hard edges with sanding or you might round them off. After the final sanding, be sure to clean again with mineral spirits / acetone to remove any oils and contaminants that might still be on the wood.
You're then going to want to use a pre-conditioner (like @Chairlove suggested). I prefer to use the pre-conditioner twice, sanding in between with 220 grit sandpaper. After your final conditioner treatment, sand once more and use a tack cloth to remove any dust. After this stage you're ready to stain. You can apply whatever stain you want using a rag or a staining pad.
Once the stain has dried, tack the surface again and then you're going to want to seal it with a poly. Apply at least 3 coats (the more coats the more durability). I tend to apply the poly heavily on horizontal surfaces as this makes a more even coat when it dries. On vertical surfaces you're going to want to go thinner to avoid runs working from top to bottom using upward brush strokes. Sand with 220 grit paper after first coat, 320 after the second, and 400 after any following coats except after the final coat. Be sure each coat dries completely before sanding and applying the next coat.
After the final coat, you can lightly rub #0000 steel wool with beeswax wood polish to level the finish of any imperfections. And that's how I do it...
Thank you both
for the detailed instructions about how to refinish this piece. Not that I doubted him, but my restorer quoted me $800 (he's first rate) and it seems worth it! No profit margin, so I think I'll sub out my 16 year old's Pottery Barn Teen desk with this. Fingers crossed she doesn't muck it up with polish or remover!
checking back in...
Just checking back in on this thread to see what others think about the price ($300) for the desk. Like I said before, the desk is in good condition, would certainly need a refinish to look brand new, but other than that there aren't any major dents, gouges, stains, etc. to the piece.
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