Hello all. This is my first post, and I'm excited to have found what looks like a really great resource in the designaddict community.
I searched for a forum like ths because I'm embarking on a project, and I'd like to avoid mis-steps if possible. My wife and I just purchased a Johannes Andersen table and 7 Harry Ostergaard chairs. They are in somewhat rough shape, and my intention is to refurbish them.
Here's a brief description of the pieces. I was told that the chairs and table are from the early '60's. Please verify if possible.
Table - The table has the familiar "Made In Denmark UM" brand, as well as the "Furnituremakers Control Danish" stamp next to it. The leaf stored under the table is in wonderful condition and appears to be original. My assumption of original is no varnish, shellac or polyurethane.
Question 1. Is this assumption correct?
The table top is much rougher, with scratches, some gouges, a light ring or two from either something hot or wet, and it appears some type of topcoat (poly?) was administered the tabletop and legs some time ago.
Question 2. Any advice on stripping, sanding and refinishing?
The chairs - The arm chair is the only chair with the "Made in Denmark A/S Randers" and again the Furnituremakers Control Danish" i.d., but none of the 6 side chairs have markings.
Question 3. Was there a period of time when the side chairs were not stamped, only the arm chairs?
4 of the chairs are in good general condition, and of original height. Two side chairs have obviously had their legs shortened. Of the two with shortened legs, one shows evidence of a very poor repair job where the back crosspiece was broken and glued back together.
Question 4: Is it generally better for value and collectibility to leave the shortened chairs alone, or to have new legs turned to the correct height, or use some other method to raise the chairs to their original height?
All of the seat upholstery will need to be renewed. My wife wants to stay with black.
Question 5: Is there a material that is generally recognized as the best choice when trying to maintain originality?
I'm sure I'll have a bunch more questions, but it's time to go run some errands.
Thanks, Gary
Hi Gary.
Congrats on your purchase, and welcome to the forum. I haven't a clue as to the answer to most of your questions, except don't use sandpaper....that kind of paper is best left in a professionals calloused hands. As for the black (vinyl?) seats, do consider a textile such as a hopsack (in royal blue?). The black vinyl looks rather boring to me. Maharam and Knoll make some sweet textiles.
just a thought,...and I'm usually wrong,
Aunt Mark
Mark, hello. Thank you for...
Mark, hello. Thank you for the welcome, and for your tip on the textile mfg. We'll check it out.
Del, congrats on your find. I googled "how to remove was buildup from furniture" and found several articles that mentioned 1 part white vinegar with 1 part water (linked below).
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/clean-wax-buildup-dark-wood-table-26553.html
Gary,
I see there are a lot of references online to using water and vinegar to remove old furniture wax. I've never tried it but I don't see how water could be any help, since it will not dissolve wax. Vinegar I'm not so sure about.
That SFGate article also recommends fine steel wool rubbed in a circular motion. I'd go with the grain.
But either way, I wouldn't use either of those on teak veneer. Years ago I read that turpentine is the only solvent that will dissolve wax so that's what I've used the few times that I needed it. Other people say mineral spirits works, too. I think you're fine with either one. Mineral spirits might not cut it as quickly as turpentine but it is safer than the water/vinegar mix, in my opinion. Use #0000 steel wool and soft cloths or paper towels to wipe off the dissolved wax.
Once you've removed the wax and the solvent has evaporated, oil the wood with teak oil. There are a lot of brands out there, many with varnish added, some without. There are just as many opinions as to what brand is best.
As for the seats---
are you dead set on black? I'd go with leather over vinyl just because it feels way nicer. I think it's plenty appropriate.
However, I prefer fabric over either most of the time and you should at least look at Maharam/Kvadrat Hallingdal if nothing else. It was designed in the 60s by Nanna Ditzel (Denmark) and was put on a lot of high end Danish furniture back then and ever since. It comes in 56 colors, wears like iron, and Maharam will send you free samples. The #180 is a charcoal gray that is pretty close to black but with subtle flecks of lighter gray---just enough to hide minor dust and lint. I just did some teak chairs in it and they looked stunning, I must say.
(I have no affiliation with Maharam/Kvadrat at all. I just think they're wonderful.)
http://maharam.com/products/hallingdal-by-kvadrat/colors/180
Hi bj.
I took a seat...
Hi bj.
I took a seat cushion to an upholsterer on Saturday. They said it was vinyl. Several have tears in them as well, so I feel I'm pretty much relegated to replacing them.
I was quoted $45 / seat cushion for labor. 2.5 yards of material needed at between $23/yd. for vinyl to $37/yd. for faux leather vinyl. Replacing the foam padding underneath the vinyl would add another $40.
Gary
"As for the seats---
are...
"As for the seats---
are you dead set on black? I'd go with leather over vinyl just because it feels way nicer. I think it's plenty appropriate." - spanky
Thank you for the background info. on this - it makes it feel like a completely legitimate choice for this vintage of furniture. Personally, I prefer cloth to vinyl. I'll bring the website to my wife's attention. Again, thank you for the suggestion.
Gary
Add 20%?
Like, for mistakes? I think some upholsterers ask for extra and I guess it's a good idea as long as the customer gets any extra fabric back. Though on these I would just add enough to cover 2 more chairs. You will get two seats across one width (54") of fabric, and each seat will need about 26" in length, so that's 3x26" for six chairs---plus another 26" for the extra.
Maharam has a lot of fabrics but many are more contemporary, like synthetics. I generally stick to the Kvadrat fabrics, Kvadrat being a Danish company for which Maharam is the US distributor. Though a bunch of Kvadrat fabrics are synthetics. You have to look at the fiber content.
Modern-Fabrics.com often has Hallingdal and others for less than wholesale but the color selection is hit or miss. But you can sign up for their New Arrivals emails and lessen your chances of missing out on something good.
If you need any help, please contact us at – info@designaddict.com