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Ib kofod Larsen cha...
 

Ib kofod Larsen chair?  

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 del
(@del)
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21/03/2014 3:04 pm  

Can anyone help I this chair as his design? It has made in Denmark stamps but no makers mark. Thank you! 


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cdsilva
(@cdsilva)
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21/03/2014 5:19 pm  

Are you sure it doesn't say...
Are you sure it doesn't say "Made in Pennsylvania"?


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del
 del
(@del)
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21/03/2014 6:33 pm  

Thanks for that picture. What...
Thanks for that picture. What company is it from?
The chair is actually stamped "made in Denmark" on every piece of the chair and ottoman.


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cdsilva
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21/03/2014 6:40 pm  

Adrian Pearsall for Craft...
Adrian Pearsall for Craft (ironically currently being "discussed" in another thread right now).
Not sure which chair design came first: the Danish or the Pearsall.
This particular chair design is not in the typical Pearsall style of that time. And if I didn't see the catalog sheet, I would have said with a high degree of confidence that it was not Pearsall.


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leif ericson - Zephyr Renner
(@leif-ericson)
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21/03/2014 6:42 pm  

Scroll right and you'll see...
Scroll right and you'll see it says "Craft Associates" which is Adrian Pearsall's company.
Snap a photo with the cushions removed?
(Stamping "made in denmark" on every piece of wood seems a bit like it is compensating for something, no?)


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cdsilva
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21/03/2014 6:52 pm  

I once had a stained beech...
I once had a stained beech lounge chair that had Made in Denmark stamped in red on almost every piece. It was generic, but still pretty good quality, including the same hidden keyhole joint knockdown construction as many of the Selig lounge chairs.


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del
 del
(@del)
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21/03/2014 6:57 pm  

cdsilva- I was actually waiti...
cdsilva- I was actually waiting to take a picture of the chair without cushions to explain the knockdown disassembly. This chair does do that and the made in Denmark stamps are red. I assumed the reason there were so many stamps is because of the knockdown aspect of the chair.


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Krenit
(@ahilavahotmail-com)
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21/03/2014 6:58 pm  

Just proves that Pearsall...
Just proves that Pearsall would copy almost anybody.


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mgee76
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01/06/2014 11:57 am  

We have two of these exact chairs.
I've been curious about this since we acquired them. They're very well-made, and look exactly like the Pearsall chairs. Very strange. They are stamped 26 W Made In Denmark on the sides and the seat.


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mgee76
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04/12/2014 10:29 pm  

I finally finished refinishing the frames on this pair I picked up almost a year ago. I think they look pretty good, but really think they'd look better with newer, thinner cushions. Still haven't figured anything further about where they come from, although I have seen several people attribute them to Kofod-Larsen, probably just to sell them online? They are really well made. The Pearsall version probably doesn't knock down, huh? Anyway, here are some pictures. If I make new cushions, should I go with 2" thick for both? 2.5" and 1.5"? Thanks.




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Saskia Sask
(@rmdecourseyyahoo-ca)
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29/12/2014 4:13 am  

Your chairs look amazing, mgee76! I recently found a loveseat that (aside from size, of course) looks identical to your chairs. My loveseat had had a hard life, having been painted in high-gloss purple paint. When I got the paint stripped off, I could see that someone had playfully gouged scratches down the length of one armrest. Luckily, the wood is a wonderful sturdy beech, and I was able to sand out the gouges.
mgee76, could you please share how thick the foam cushions are for your chairs? Also, if you don't mind saying, what materials did you use to stain and finish the wood? Do you think that your chairs are beech, or some other kind of wood?
By the way, my loveseat does knock down, and the craftsmanship is a delight!
Anyone with any advice for refinishing or making new cushions, please advise! Thanks!


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mgee76
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29/12/2014 9:38 pm  

Saskia, the cushions here are 4" thick on the seats and 3" thick on the backs. Dimensions for seats is 22" X 22" and backs are 16" tall. The chairs are Beech I stripped them, sanded them lightly, and then soaked them in a Dark Walnut dye stain. I put too much on at first, though, so I then went back and evened the color with mineral spirits I put an oil stain of the same color on top to even it all out. The chairs were then sprayed with a pre-cat lacquer. I don't know what color you're going for, but the dye stain followed by the oil stain worked pretty well on these, I think. Here is where I would go for dye stains, although you have plenty of different options:
https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/CLWW
Can't remember the exact oil stain, but it was probably Minwax.


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Saskia Sask
(@rmdecourseyyahoo-ca)
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29/12/2014 11:25 pm  

mgee76, thanks so much for all of this info. I really like the proportions with the foam that you've used, so I'm glad to know the dimensions. (I've been puzzling over this for quite a while.)
I'm dying to finish my loveseat, but I need to wait for spring so that I can work outside. I have experimented on my loveseat with a little bit with General Finishes gel stain. I've tried four different colours, but the walnut shade looked best to me. I do find the beech on this loveseat to be more pink than I would like, so the green in the walnut stain seems to neutralize the pink well.
I've never tried wood dye, so I may well go with your advice.
Thanks again, mgee76, and congratulations on a stunning pair of chairs.


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Spanky
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30/12/2014 12:21 am  

McGee, was it you in that other thread who was asking about cushion thicknesses?  It was a week or two ago.
I think 1.5" is too thin for a back cushion in a chair like this.  You'll be able to feel the spokes through it.  I would not go any thinner than 2" for the back and probably 3" for the seat.  This is both for comfort but also because the arms on those chairs look fairly high so you'll probably need more foam rather than less on the seat to get the seat-to-arm height ratio in a comfortable zone.


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mgee76
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02/01/2015 11:49 pm  

Yeah, that was me. I went with 2" on the back. Thanks again.


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