Help - have I ruined my Danish Teak table?  

metropolis2, here's what I normally do:
First, I clean by Liberon WPR500 Wax and Polish Remover, and then I cover all areas with Liberon Finishing Oil (Both products comes with detailed instructions.)
This way no waxing is needed. (To get a glossy finish, you have to skip wiping of exceeding oil (with a cloth after 15 minutes, but it is tricky to get the excact amount needed, so I'll recommend some prior training before you do this on a large surface).
I'm a Liberon fan since long, and the desk pictured was treated with the products described above. (The removing bit is best performed out doors, but an oiling session can be done in a well ventilated room). Steel wool is used in the process of removing old oil, and then an even finer variant may be used on the newly oiled wood (in case of the wood fibres raising, but it rearly occurs, is my experience).
PS: The finest steel wool is restricted to the oiled surface and not recommended used directly on the wood itself, as experts say the dust might clog the pores in the wood making it absorbing less oil (less evenly).DS

Wow, that's shiny.

I have to assume that the super-glossy shot shows the top still wet . . .

I kind of thought that too, SDR, except that Chronophage explained how to get a glossy finish.  
I have used Formby's high gloss oil finish (Tung Oil Finish?  Danish Oil Finish?  I can't remember the exact name) on a few antique-ish things long ago and it was a pretty glossy effect.  And yes, tricky to do---if you leave too much on, it can end up gummy because it doesn't dry completely or whatever.  

I definitely don't like the super-glossy example. Why not just buy a quart of boiled linseed oil - available at any hardware store last I checked. That is what was used back when this furniture was being made. Follow the directions on the can - wipe on, let dry, wipe off excess, repeat.

if you're going to use the table as an ironing board, it may be wise to invest in a table pad.  
Table pads not looking good , but they sure do protect the table .

Maybe you should read the whole thread and not just copy the exact same comment someone else has already said. 

Voilà fresh images of the desk in use (only now cleared of all the clutter that animates the surface on a regular basis … )

Hi Metropolis, wanted to check if you managed to sort your table out and how? I got some white blotches on my Swedish teak table 2 weeks after buying it. Not sure if it was fruit juice or water.. Tried the ironing technique and it sort of made the ironed area a bit lighter... and i think possibly added some new white blotches. I am not sure what is going on? It seemed to have worked for so many people? And isn't teak meant to be the hardest of woods! Will teak oil and steel wool technique help?? HELP!!!