I recently picked up a George Nelson for Arbuck wrought iron side table at a flea market for $5 (someone had replaced the glass with particle board :p) I plan on powder coating as the original enamel rough, however, I've noticed the welds are pretty ugly... Would it be sacrilege or detract from the value to (carefully) take a file to some of the splatter?
Surprisingly
unprofessional welding ? You'll find that excess material quite hard, I think. Did you paint the metal yourself, or is it as found. The first file stroke will tell you what you're up against. I've seen welders use power tools to grind welds clean . . .
I'd say there isn't enough clear finish on your birch, yet, to resist water staining, etc, over time. But the color is nice. The wood conceals the iffy metalwork better than glass would !
The metal is as I found it....
The metal is as I found it. I'm planning on powdercoating it once I smooth the welds out a bit. As far as the wood is concerned: I used danish oil to seal it, although after staining, the birch got "fuzzy" in some spots (which I later learned is typical of birch. Had I known I would have gone with oak.) So I'm hoping a few coats of poly will hide that.
Heh-heh . . .
That's sweet. Yes -- a definite affinity.
One notes that the diagrammatic photo of the pair shows three rods supporting the "lamp stand," while the poster's example has four. A knock-off -- or a manufacturing change ?
The slightly tinted glass looks good, no doubt. A pair of tempered 1/4" plate glass panels wouldn't be very expensive, I think. Any glass store could have them made. . .
Powder coat is a nice way to go. Yes, coats of poly, sanded between coats with 150 / 180 grit, would make the wood better. Irregularities in the grain might still show, but not much -- and the surface would be well sealed.
I noticed the support rods...
I noticed the support rods as well. Currently there are two of the same table as mine listed as George Nelson on ebay... this means absolutely nothing, but is there any way to tell? There are no makers marks of any sort.
I agree that the tinted glass looks good and its more cohesive with the overall design of the piece... I just have a thing for satin black and walnut :p
Thank you for the advise SDR! Im still at the very begining stages of learning how to work with wood and any and all tips are greatly appreciated!
just a note...
do keep in mind that powdercoat is considerably thicker than paint, many of the imperfections will be filled somewhat and much less noticeable. those welds are pretty shoddy, very undercut (burned deeper than surface)...oh, and they will be very hard welds, they appear to be MIG welds...you may try your hand at a small pneumatic angle grinder with a scotchbrite disk....minimize effort and will produce a smooth finish....
Scotchbrite
would smooth the surface, but not remove the excess weld, would it ? Wouldn't he need an abrasive disc for the initial work ?
Electric angle grinders (die grinders) are available for rent -- wouldn't require a compressor. I wish those undercut welds could be improved. Does powder coat stick to Bondo ?
Ugly welds, indeed...
I would seek out a fab shop with a good reputation if it really bothers you. Otherwise you're going to be killing yourself with a file. There's no other way around it. A good welder should be able to fill those missing chunks and at the very least give you smooth surfaces to work with. If you're going to powder coat anyway, you could then go at it with the file afterward. Like I said, otherwise you're going to be spinning your wheels.
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