So I am preparing to take...
So I am preparing to take this on. Hopefully tonight, if not tomorrow. But as I am cleaning the area, I am wary that there is a film of hard glue. I am sanding it, but must it all come off? Shouldn't the epoxy work as long as it is roughened up enough?
Get everything out that's not stuck good.
Epoxy to epoxy should bond well as long as the surfaces are free of any contaminants - wipe well with acetone on a swab. The only caveat is that we don't know what adhesive HM used originally. I think you'll do fine and your chair will end up good as new.
I should never have responded to this thread. We've had another one pop off here yesterday. A center rear one under the seat this time. Dang kids!
khus is correct
whitespike,
khus is correct in that the product of choice is the 3M DP190. Do yourself a big favor and get the 3M EPX applicator and a few mixing nozzles to make the process "fool proof". I have included a link to show the applicator (it will provide the correct mix every time). And as always surface preperation is the key to success. Good luck.
An open tube of 3M epoxy (resealed after use) "does not" have a ten year shelf life (even when refrigerated).
http://www.drillspot.com/products/64857/3M_EPX_PLUS_II_Epoxy_Applicator
all done
Thanks for everyone's comments and great advice. I decided to go to Home Depot and buy the PC-7. However, they do not sell it any more.
Seems every epoxy I considered had two parts ... and I just went with the most similar thing I could find, which was made by Gorilla. It had the hardener and something else ... it escapes me.
But I mixed the two parts after a good bit of sanding and cleaning the areas. I elevated one side of the back with a large bag of rice and a towel to get the shock mount area level to the counter. After rotating and locking into place I put a heavy book on it for 24 hours.
I have to admit, there seems to be a lot of opinions on a very specific way about this ... but this seems super duper sturdy and I cannot even tell it was ever done. Now the real test: time!
I used 3M Marine Adhesive...
I used 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 to glue together a hard rubber caster wheel that had completely come apart. It's holding perfectly under use. The guy in the store said he's used it for all kinds of applications.
Anyway, I've got some Eames furniture and the consistency of this stuff is nearly identical to the shockmounts - very hard, but flexible.
Warning: It takes a FULL two weeks to set.
Don't know much...
but I ran across a bunch of fiberglass shells and I've been changing the mount config to narrow instead of wide. I don't know if the adhesive I use is good for rubber to wood but it works GREAT for rubber to fiberglass. The description says it's good for wood.
JB Kwik Weld
If the 3M doesn't work, check out
Bad thing is that you have to have some practice or that stuff runs. I can remember the first few shells I reconfigured. BOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!
disclaimer: I am not responsible for your "do-it yourself" decisions haha!
Gluing has
much to do with the condition of the mating surfaces. Nothing could be better than "virgin" broken material, ready to go back together without any gaps at all. And the problem of replacing one repair adhesive with another is especially vexing -- I'm sorry to say. Removing all traces of a failed adhesive, so the material itself can be bonded cleanly with the new glue, is not easy, or always possible.
I hate to say it, but having tried one glue, it may be necessary to start this time with a new shock mount.
I still marvel at a repaired miniature Tiffany vase -- a rare, almost transparent piece of glassware -- that I saw after it was restored by a craftsman somewhere in New York. One had to look carefully to see the occasional outline of fractured glass. The vase had been broken into multiple pieces -- during a pillow fight !
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