You could
add orange shellac to the two patches that are less -- orange. After that I'd stop.
I suppose you could strip all the finish and see what you have -- but I suspect that the suntan is in the wood, and I'm not sure you could sand enough off the veneer before burning through to the substrate.
Stain the panel dark ? Turn the panel upside-down -- for a possibly better effect with the new placement of cabinets ? Call it "historic signs of use" and post a curator's note on the wall next to the panel ?
I should report
that I've had a certain amount of success with matching the darker parts of cherry panels that had become "suntanned" over the weekend, sitting on an A-frame cart in a shop with a good-sized skylight overhead. I covered the darker parts, leaving the lighter ones exposed, and let the sunlight get to it over a few more days. It came out all right.
I believe light is responsible for most if not all of such effects -- though atmospheric issues could come into play, especially on unfinished wood ?
There appear to be stripes of dark between some of the areas on your panel. These will present an extra challenge.
I'd start by stripping the finish and lightly sanding the panel -- to see what you've really got. I'd do the sanding first, and leave it alone after re-tanning -- because the new darkening may not go as deep as the older dark areas . . .
Remember that a new clear coat will accentuate any remaining color differences, so be prepared for that.
The grain on this panel suggests it may be solid, and not veneer. If so, sand away all you like -- that's the most direct way to get rid of the tanning.
Random-flitch
veneer -- most unusual. Perhaps a way for the maker to suggest the appearance of solid wood ? Or simply an economy -- where the panel is perhaps the least evident of the components in the assembled product ? Nice enough, in either event.
Can the panels be used either way up ? Is there a metal part to the row of holes ?
Veneer hierarchy.
Random flitch and width was likely the most cost-effective for panels that weren't intended to be too prominent in most situations.
Josh, will the uneven coloration really be that noticeable once you get the system installed? In my experience with shelving systems, they tend to get filled up pretty quickly with items more interesting than what's behind them. Nature abhors a vaccuum in my house.
veneers
Most folks would be surprised to know that the majority of Danish indoor furniture is veneered - tables, cabinets, credenzas, etc. Even those rare, high end designer teak or rosewood pieces.
I'm not sure why though - perhaps it can withstand more tempurature and humidity changes without cracking or warping compared to solid wood? Denmark is wet country!
I've refinished many veneered pieces over the years to remove minor scratches, discolorations and water stains. I find that a very light sanding removes most of the undesired surface blemishes - i usually start with a 150 or 220grit, then 320 and finish with 400grit. The 400 gives a nice polished look. Never use a belt sander or you will likely strip off all the veneer. A small orbital sander gives the control you need. Sanding will obviously remove some of the patina but I find that I can usually find a wood tint or midly colored stain to match any unfinished surfaces. So far i've been sucessful and no one has ever noticed.
SDR
They can only be hung one way as the holes that accept the pegs on the shelving brackets and on the back of the boxes are are on a downward 45 degree or so angle and as such the holes follow the same course. Tktoo, you are probably correct in that they won't be as striking when up on the wall with the the shelving and tchotchkes on them. I am going to mount one and check it out. My plan was to pass them on but I sort of like the contrast the wood panel makes on the wall. Will maybe keep 2 bays worth.
I wish the back of them was similar so that I could practice with what you suggested SDR. It is also a veneer but looks much different.
My best to all and a happy and healthy New Year
.
I had similar issues but more 'ghosting' than 'suntan' since my panels are walnut.
Less noticeable. I also have 5 panels but only used 2 and picked the best ones. You could test on a lower section where you know cabinets will be placed. The upper shelves you may find are ok placed in the original users location.
The veneer is very thin as you know and may not completely disappear with wire wool. I would probably fine sand/wire wool and see how it goes, then start with a clear finish, thinned, and gradually add layers of tint to the lighter areas. Possibly clear shellac thinned with alcohol gradually adding amber and also trans-tint or mixol for a good match. The lighter area from a cabinet hung high may need as much as 8 passes.
Or just pass the issue on to the next owner if you are selling what you will not need.
I did not need the panels at all, but ended up using two by the garage entry for coats, scarves and key catch-all. I ended up making the wall standard rails since most of my interior walls are clear cedar.
One of my lower cabinets does need refinishing since it appears to have been used as a bar-top in its past life. Have not gotten around to it to examine the original 'factory' finish, or i could be of better help.
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