Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| If you'll wait | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| ... of your cabinet -- not the drawer boxes themselves -- to be mitered. Is that the case ? Suffice it to say that amateurs always shoot for the most difficult work, right off the bat ! But information will assist you in deciding whether you are adequately equipped (in all senses) to attack this problem successfully. | |||||
| I'd pass. | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | fastfwd | General discussion | |
| I'd pass. That tiny photo makes it difficult to tell, but the backrest shape looks wrong (the Artifort chair's backrest is not symmetrical top-to-bottom), the base construction looks wrong (and it looks painted, and it appears to be peeling), and the upholstery looks torn and stained. | |||||
| That | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| ... not compress and/or relocate to their original position; these will absolutely prevent complete closure of the piece, thus preventing proper adhesion of the glue over a more or less broad -- and critical -- area. Any amount of effort to identify and correct this condition prior to gluing is called for, I'm afraid -- and in the worst case, the job must be abandoned if the condition cannot be met. If the wood cannot be completely closed (while allowing for very minor interior gaps where material may be missing), the area of the break will present a "weak li ... | |||||
| I don't understand why round, pod-like structures | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | william-holden-... | General discussion | |
| ... building suggests a circular shape (if anything, the curves make the exercise even MORE difficult, one would think). Face it, these shapes are determined only by the appeal of novelty. An attention-seeking architectural tactic, explained away with vague, nonsensical engineering references. It's designing something from the outside-in ("Eureka! I'll build a spherical house! The design magazines will be all over it! No, I don't know where we'll put the bookshelves, the bed, or the bathtub... don't bother me with such mundane details!")-- a textbook example of ... | |||||
| Omni info on brackets and misc set up info | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Cathy | General discussion | |
| ... to the Omni System however the closed in Jan. of 2010. There is a guy by the name of Guy Campbell who I talked to and is quite knowledgable about the Omni's. He has a pole system that sounds MUCH easier to use for the set up than what our Omni's came with. He has no original replacement parts for Omni's and does not know where to get them other than search the internet. His website is www.shelfshopguy.com and Phone # 718-465-3563 e-mail: guy@shelfshopguy.com Guy is VERY helpful. We had a very difficult time setting our up and spent lots of time doin ... | |||||
| Yes | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| Yes It's difficult to judge from the small photos, but assuming there is no weird wide-angle or distortion on them, I'd say the chairs are not Herman Miller. Take a look at these photos for comparison -- the shape of the back rest, the stance of the legs, etc. | |||||
| devanagari | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | shipwright (UK) | General discussion | |
| devanagari hmmmmmm I've studied devanagari and burmese but this is more difficult. Am away from my books but this is a great tease... http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CltXp4ASOWU/Sgdoxr5YmVI/AAAAAAAAACA/ojuUd3pp0g... | |||||
| . | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | rockland | General discussion | |
| . Just to confuse the matter, i could place a sample of beech, elm and cedar with different clear coat finishes, no stain, and they could all look very similar side by side. It does make internet shopping difficult. At this very moment i am mixing a half dozen custom stains. I have a cedar cabinet that needs to match 50yr old cedar tongue and groove walls. A prototype louan garbage can to match teak, etc. pic below is cedar (i know it is cedar by the smell) | |||||
| Absolutely it can be saved.... | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | dadainteriors | General discussion | |
| Absolutely it can be saved.... Absolutely it can be saved. Of course if it is worth it is dependent upon your price point invested. If it is a veneer, even some exotic veneers are not terribly expensive and the application is not difficult. If it is real wood....well you know the routine. I do believe this table to be a solid wood top. | |||||
| repair | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | jdip | General discussion | |
| repair The base is seperated from the top half of the chair and have been told there is no damage to the wood. How difficult is it to reatach? | |||||
| thanks for the step by step! | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | meee-ow | General discussion | |
| thanks for the step by step! Appreciated, I dont have either so hopefully it wont be difficult!? also ...yes, my bad for not reading before righting (pun 🙂 sorry Its a really cool table so I think you all will appreciate it as I do (designer or naught!!) I'll be back... | |||||
| I agree | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | niceguy | General discussion | |
| I agree fastfwd and whitespike, I agree with both of you that a floor lamp is the best. I was only replying to the question asked. Also, it is generally difficult to get a lamp to have multiple functions (ambient and task lighting). That being said, my choice would be the Ingo Maurer (yes I am a fan and own both pieces) Swingading floor lamp. It will act as both a general light source and a reading lamp when required. | |||||
| Arthur, | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| ... technical (and spiritual) soul of our forum -- and not just on ceramic issues, by any means ! There's nothing wrong with a sliding dovetail, assuming you can manage it at all -- it's a fussy job. We did it on a production basis in the first cabinet shop I worked in -- with a fir plywood side meeting a plastic-laminated 1/2" particleboard front (!). Those boys were confident of their abilities . . . Let me know more, Heath. I'm all for simplifying woodworking where possible -- I take no pleasure in seeing how difficult we can make our craft. | |||||
| Without seeing the rug | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Shovel | General discussion | |
| Without seeing the rug it is difficult to determine the "gap" issue. This rug needs to be steam cleaned. Be sure the company is expert in steam cleaning. A good company will guarantee good results. The key is to remove 97% of all the water in the steaming process. You will need someone that will guarantee you that the colors will not bleed. The other option is "dry clean". Looking at your rug I think you will get better results with steam. You just need to be sure the company is qualified as an expert in steam cleaning rugs. PS Find you a commercial vc f ... | |||||
| One of things I always have... | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | flyingpatricio | General discussion | |
| One of things I always have... One of things I always have noticed is that a lot of the patina achieved on "antiques" is part of the heating sources they used through much of the years of it's lifespan. Coal and wood burning are extremely dirty. I know this firsthand seeing as I have lived in Victorian and even older homes much of my life. All the soot and grime that comes from those sources ends up in that patina as the piece ages. It is IMPOSSIBLE to replicate this without being able to tell the piece has been refinished. On the other hand the MCM pieces i ... | |||||
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