Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| I certainly can't blame you | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| ... prescribed here. Just a heads-up . . . Glass can be cut, but it's risky and difficult to take just a little off -- the thicker, the worse, I'm afraid. Once cutting is done, the glass houses have an automatic grinder-polisher that the glass is passed through, on edge. The places I've dealt with all seem dedicated to using that device as little as possible -- they won't guarantee a perfect size when you order, citing a +- factor of 1 1/16" for anything over window glass thickness, and more for the thicker materials. They cut, that leaves waves in the edge, ... | |||||
| Here's more photos with a | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | danishmods | General discussion | |
| Here's more photos with a better camera. It's difficult to really show the problem. The veneer isn't loose. It is lower at the edge of the table and split where it goes from high to low. All four plates on the table have the same problem - very strange. And yes, it is solid underneath the two layers of veneer. | |||||
| Well it is absolutely | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| Well it is absolutely identical in every way to the sibling chair with the common early brand that has lived with it for 60 odd years. Except for the different brand. Near the brand on all the old specimens I can find there is a craftsman's or inspector's impressed number, in a specific font. The chair in question evidences this. There is another early Carl Hansen mark that is branded on with wide letters similar to the brand on the chair in question. Which makes it plausible there are more marks not yet well known, and that they might be brands with wide ... | |||||
| I have done | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | Margauxbek | General discussion | |
| I have done I have done pretty much research on these bertoia side chairs and they're are lots of different types of mounting brackets. I've also seen chairs with the wires ending on top of the horizontal wire (seen in the pic) and others with the wires ending underneath the horizontal wire. I think it has to do with the period they were made in... difficult to say... . But I'm happy to know that they aren't knock off's. The seller is asking 1000 euros (1320 USD). I think it's quit much... What do you think? Thank you very much for the useful information. | |||||
| Hi | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| Hi I'd say it's difficult to compare the exact details of US vs European productions. We know in the US that Knoll continuously (slightly) modified the wire chair details over time. There was a recent post of some other European chairs that had another type of mounting hardware that I have not seen in the US. The shape of these chairs in question looks correct. | |||||
| Outside back padding enclosed | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| Outside back padding enclosed. Outside back padded with original cotton batting. Outside back tacked in place. Outside back hand stitched around perimeter. Cushion pattern pieces. Forgot to take photos of the re-assembly of the cushion. It is perhaps the hardest part of the whole chair, which is saying something, as the rest of the chair is quite difficult to re-upholster on its own. | |||||
| I agree that the cushions | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | HanaleiKim | General discussion | |
| ... She'd tied on a thick outdoor chair pad to them that wasn't quite tall enough but the thicker pad looked much better than the charish cushions. An upholsterer I spoke with suggested making the upper back cushion in "catapilar style" whatever that means. Sounds like one long cushion with a periodic seam across the back. Perhaps this is how she thought to address the curvature of the back rather than curve the cushion. I don't think the straps on the charish chair are leather. They look like old school pirella webbing, which I just purchased 9 yds of ... | |||||
| To further your point, tktoo,... | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| ... This is because the appearance of rosewood is highly variable so it can be very difficult to know what you are seeing in the finished product. So if this piece is of unknown "rosewood" then it is hard to believe Rio rosewood and Bolivian "rosewood" are the only realistic options. There are quite a few rosewoods and substitutes that could easily have that appearance. That said if it was manufactured after 1967 it is almost certainly not Rio rosewood. | |||||
| Heat the plastic. | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | tktoo | General discussion | |
| ... should give you some idea as to how difficult it would be to remove the intact plastic from the spare glide. Since the metal part of your spare is unusable anyway, slitting the outer circumference of the mating metal cup with a hacksaw in a few places should help to remove the plastic without damaging it. If all that is successful, mating the two parts might require warming the plastic and metal parts again and maybe jury-rigging some sort of press using clamps instead of trying to hammer the plastic into place. Depending on the type of plastic, it may have ... | |||||
| . | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | jw468 | General discussion | |
| . Yeah, the search function on this site is difficult to fine-tune unless you know/remember exactly what you're hunting for. It took me forever to find that second link because of Pollock being spelled "Pollack." If SDR's suggestion doesn't accomplish what you want on the fiberglass, you could try looking at what people have done to restore weathered Eames shell chairs or you could look at fiberglass boat care. I haven't seen one of these in person, but I would assume that the white is an opaque gelcoat, which you don't want to polish through. | |||||
| Thanks guys! | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | guyinSF | General discussion | |
| Thanks guys! Since i'm in the bay area, the salvation armies I go to always charges their dressers at least $100 and up and the shitty ones usually don't have nice looking pulls anyway but I guess I can keep checking, you never know. It's a bit difficult to find them cuz I have to find pulls that have a 4" distance from screw hole to screw hole and I always find nice ones I like with different distances. | |||||
| Mgee | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | Eameshead | General discussion | |
| Mgee the sticker yes, but look at the patina on that laminate! Now THAT is difficult to fake. (Um, i mean "pay homage" to) | |||||
| very impressive work robert | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | Eameshead | General discussion | |
| very impressive work robert As a kid I watched my mother upholster various chairs and sofas, and I saw enough to know how difficult it is. (Sheetrock and installing floors are easy when compared to doing your own upholstery!) I have great respect for anyone who can get results like this. These are SO beautiful. Congratulations! | |||||
| Kcbrain, I think I understand... | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | guyinSF | General discussion | |
| Kcbrain, I think I understand... Kcbrain, I think I understand what you're asking me now. You're asking if I can remove the track so the drawer can come out with it? Well since the drawer can only open halfway it's quite difficult for me to reach back and unscrew the metal track. I guess if I can figure out how to remove the track that would be one way of removing the drawer but I would rather try to remove the drawer without tempering with the track. | |||||
| OMG! | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | Chronophage_oslo | General discussion | |
| OMG! Wow, that's a highly unlikely find, I have never seen them other than bw-photos... The smoked glass is typical of Hadeland Glassverk, in Jevnaker, Norway. They made a lot of every day items, but these, that were meant to be just that but high end, proved too difficult to produce without lots of faults, and thus too expensive for the company make profit, from what I have read (source forgotten right now). Hadeland's famous head of design (and artistic glass) was Arne Jon Jutrem (periode 1950-1962 and at a later periode, I think), so this is one of his ma ... | |||||
If you need any help, please contact us at – info@designaddict.com








