Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| I'm little more than an | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | mgee76 | General discussion | |
| I'm little more than an armchair woodworker, but could some of you folks that have tried/succeeded explain what is so difficult about this? It seems more tedious, to me, than complicated? Again, I am basically a layperson when it comes to this stuff. Just getting everything precise, or? | |||||
| Hi SDR | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | gregward | General discussion | |
| ... hemispheres are done and I'm about to fit the tubes. Cutting the wholes in in the curve surface proved to be difficult. Will post more when I'm further along. Also made an "Antony " light " ,a simple wall fixing with an inline rocker switch, makes versatile bedside light. Cheers Greg | |||||
| The top really is veneer. I | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| ... from the center to the head of the table. The glue joints would break at probably 1/32 inch of movement. Scandinavian wood workers tended to know how to use solid wood, and it is rare to see them make a mistake when executing a piece in solid wood. They also did NOT use solid wood for many of the sorts of construction where it causes the most challenges. Tables and case pieces are examples of the sorts of furniture where solid wood construction is most difficult (and were done with plywood/particle board substrates). Chairs rarely cause problems with so ... | |||||
| posted by: cdsilva - 21 Jan | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | cdsilva | General discussion | |
| ... clean the chairs, I did take a closer look at them and think they are the all-oak versions, rather than teak veneer for the outside faces of the seat and backrest. And if a miracle were to happen, and I was able to successfully re-veneer all four seats with white oak, would it not be very difficult to get a visual match to the aged oak veneer of the backrests? On the "go for it" side, since the original plan was to upholster the seats, I suppose a botched re-veneer job would be just as easy to cover up. | |||||
| It appears to be one of the | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | cdsilva | General discussion | |
| It appears to be one of the Bambi chairs by Rastad and Relling, except incorrectly re-woven with cord. It also looks like some of the sharp edges have been sanded to be more rounded, although it is difficult to see from the overview photos. I'm not aware of any Bambi knockoffs, but I suppose they could be out there. There are versions with both cane and leather. If there are three holes in the upper end of the back legs, then your chair was originally cane. Some close-ups photos would be nice. | |||||
| niceguy, your ongoing | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | cdsilva | General discussion | |
| ... DA about large sheet veneering, and it sounds a bit above my pay grade. And although I haven't yet had the chance to clean the chairs, I did take a closer look at them and think they are the all-oak versions, rather than teak veneer for the outside faces of the seat and backrest. And if a miracle were to happen, and I was able to successfully re-veneer all four seats with white oak, would it not be very difficult to get a visual match to the aged oak veneer of the backrests? On the "go for it" side, since the original plan was to upholster the seats, I supp ... | |||||
| Hi, | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Studio.42 | General discussion | |
| Hi, The picture isn't so good, difficult to get an idea ... But just for the pleasure to share this advertising, which could maybe help you in your researchs Regards, 20eme Siècle Team | |||||
| TaranQ, | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | niceguy | General discussion | |
| TaranQ, How difficult is it to look on the internet with the "key word" Ikea and determine this is the Gottfrid side chair. Let's get with the program and make a feeble attempt to do your own homework. | |||||
| jwolff, | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | niceguy | General discussion | |
| jwolff, You are welcome. That is not the definitive answer. It is just a good place to begin. objectworship is correct that negotiation is the name of the game. Start at less 50 if you feel comfortable. You may always go down in price, but it is difficult to go up.. Best of luck. | |||||
| Here's a good old DA thread | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | cdsilva | General discussion | |
| Here's a good old DA thread that might help you out: http://www.designaddict.com/forum/General-discussion/Eames-Walnut-Stools Never say never, but I would be very surprised if someone was making knockoffs that looked as good as the listed item. If so, then it will be very difficult to tell from here on out. I don't believe Eames stools ever had Herman Miller marks on them. | |||||
| Thank you so much for the | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | JJR | General discussion | |
| Thank you so much for the input! Would it be more difficult to sell the chair again if i im ever done with it? And just wondering... Are there any fakes dating back that far? Would love to know more. | |||||
| There seems to be a few | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | cdsilva | General discussion | |
| There seems to be a few variations of that basic Hovmand Olsen arm chair design. Here is a very similar one, except the side rails are different (perhaps other details as well). http://www.deconet.com/decopedia/template/seating/arm-chairs/Armchair-by... I've found that quite a few HO designs have difficult-to-trace histories. The Danish Furniture Index is another good resource in general, but their current HO listings are slim. Nice chairs. I'd keep those and sell something else. | |||||
| I would second B.L. Marble as | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Zephyr | General discussion | |
| ... to yours. Most specifically, the way the the two front legs taper at the bottom, and also at the top where they meet the arm, seems to be a distinct feature of BLM's designs of this era. Additionally, the construction is quite similar, down to the fasteners used to attach the back cushion. I have found it difficult to find a lot of info on my chairs, but I hope you are having better luck. I see a few of the series 7611 chairs sold from time to time, and they typically go for around 100 USD a piece; however, your chair is a much cleaner design than mine, ... | |||||
| I would not expect the | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| ... manner that is more difficult that steaming the glue and tapping with a mallet. If any joint shows the slightest looseness I would just disassemble it, too The texture of the wood, on the surface, is going to be different where it has suffered that level of water damage, so you really need to sand of that surface layer of damaged wood. Oxalic will probably fix the color issue, but not the texture. After sanding, if there are splits that are gray inside, oxalic will very likely clear that up. And if you can then get some glue into the split and clamp it cl ... | |||||
| Eameshead is absolutely right | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | kin1117 | General discussion | |
| ... the new chairs are made these days. Unfortunately, they're not bullet proof and I've seen more than a couple of newer chairs experience the shock mount failure despite having these newer "upgraded" shock mounts. I'm not an engineer but logic tells me that if they're breaking down after being used for 5-10 years, it's not really an upgrade. Also, the tiny little screws on the metal plate that go into the wood panel are very short and I doubt they do anything to strengthen the bond. At one point I was about to send my very old 670 to HM to replace the shock m ... | |||||
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