Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| You never know who you might | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | Identification | |
| You never know who you might find. I find caning pleasant and easy (And I don't really like doing Danish cord, even though I have done dozens of seats and well). Many, perhaps most, people find caning difficult and the results show it. Unless you are willing to put the time and effort in to do it right you, you may discover that you are wasting your time. They only get to be original once. Redoing them erases all the evidence of just how the first craftsman did it. I can't tell you how many pieces I have rescued after a misguided attempt to improve t ... | |||||
| It does appear to be a bit of | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | tktoo | Repair | |
| It does appear to be a bit of a puzzle at first glance. Better photos, perhaps more close up and with brighter lighting, of the underside where the back support (style?) and seat join might help to find a solution. It's difficult to see exactly how the metal bracket is fastened in the photo you've posted. | |||||
| S Christian of Copenhagen | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | cdsilva | General discussion | |
| ... both AHO and NO are clearly credited for the designs of 55/71 and 57/77, respectively. The information for this layout can only have come through J.L. Moller, who was a successful company by this time. It is difficult to believe that, according to the descendants of Niels, that he would simultaneously be promoting another false name for his design on the same page as a design he did stake claim to. | |||||
| Good advice here. I would | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | tktoo | Repair | |
| Good advice here. I would only add that neither polyurethane nor shellac (alone, as in French polish) are great choices. Polyurethane, while durable, is too difficult to remove or repair. Shellac, while simple to remove or repair, is easily damaged by heat, water, or alcohol and therefore needs an appropriate topcoat like lacquer on a coffee/cocktail table. | |||||
| I haven't seen theirs. I've | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | tktoo | Repair | |
| I haven't seen theirs. I've used OEM mounts on DCMs and an ES670 with PC-7 as per Alfie Hume's advice and have experienced no failures or signs thereof to date (knock wood veneer)... There have been advances made since venerable PC-7, though, as far as 2-part adhesives. Two that I've been curious about for similar applications are West System "G-Flex" and "Plexus" by ITW. 3M, of course, now offers a dizzying assortment of specialized, high-performance products, too, but they make it difficult for small-time operators like me. | |||||
| With the blocks, it is going | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Zephyr | Repair | |
| With the blocks, it is going to be difficult to do the L nails. Furthermore, you would still have to do some stapling on the front/back rail, because you wont be able to wrap around it where the blocks are. I have 6 of these chairs right now, and fortunately the cord is in good shape, but I have thought about how I would re-cord if I found some that needed it. I always came back to stapling, as they are out of the factory. I agree with everything Spanky says about L nail superiority, but I just dont see how you work around those corner blocks, and get a r ... | |||||
| I never wax after, but I | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Zephyr | General discussion | |
| ... and the starting point. Going off of freshly stripped/sanded wood, you may need half-a-dozen to dozen coats over a period of weeks. The more varnish/resins in the oil, the quicker it will build, and the fewer coats you will need. Starbright has very little if any resin, so you are going to have a difficult time building the finish at all (and you never really build too much with oil-blends anyways). Watco Teak Oil on the other hand, has a fair amount of resin in it, and builds quicker. At this point, I mostly work with my own blends that I mix myself. ... | |||||
| I have refinished a few dozen | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Zephyr | Repair | |
| I have refinished a few dozen dining chairs at this point, most of which were Moller. From this experience, I can tell you the following.... ... the dents and scratches on the legs are likely too deep to completely remove. They can be drastically minimized, though. Filling the damage is possible, but unless you are experienced preparing and color matching filler, it will look far worse than minimizing what you can and leaving it. You can sand them a number of ways, but I suggest doing it by hand (to maintain the curvature of the leg). 120, 180, 220 grit ... | |||||
| Hi ! I removed all the jute | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Ernest Rams | Repair | |
| ... difficult to inject epoxi in the small holes and cracks, and probably not even needed from a pure structural point of view. But I find sad what they did with this frame. As you can see from the pictures, I think that two staples, very close to each other, were used to fix the spring. As I understand now by looking at how the spring looks like, it totally makes sense because the spring is "flat". How do you think I can calculate how long the spring has? I will order it today. Do you have any comment also on the kind of staples that I should use? These are in ... | |||||
| This may end up just being a | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Zephyr | Identification | |
| ... quite well. It is not Aasbjerg quality, or on par with some of the other very high-end snedkermesters, but for factory piece is really well made. Smaller drawers are the typical finger-joint afromosia, but the larger three drawers are dovetailed on the front and at the rear. The larger three drawers are actually solid tropical wood of some sort. The light was bad, and difficult to tell what type, but the sides, backs and bottoms, were all solid. The drawer slides are inlaid brass rails, and routed into the side of the drawer. The shelf peg holes are al ... | |||||
| Hi! spanky thank you for the | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Ernest Rams | General discussion | |
| Hi! spanky thank you for the link. Leif, do you think it is possible to get these springs, and is it difficult to fix them into the wood? Thank you Ernest | |||||
| Photos are very low res, but | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | cdsilva | Identification | |
| Photos are very low res, but framing details and proportions all look correct to me. I've never seen or heard of any knockoffs for the 62/78 chairs. They would be one of the most difficult Danish chairs to knock off. The seat rail looks sloppily stained. | |||||
| They look like they are | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Zephyr | Identification | |
| ... the leg, almost looks like the lower support structure is made from Afromosia, but this is really difficult to tell from photos. Afromosia would support Norwegian construction. The detail on the back leg will definitely be something to key into when looking for a match. I know somone else on the forum will probably know this one off the top of their head, let's see..... | |||||
| When asking yourself if it is | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Zephyr | Identification | |
| ... a hard look at why you bought them. Everybody sees buying and flipping these pieces as a quick buck, but that is rarely the case. There are very few people getting rich off refinishing and selling modern furniture from the middle of the last century. Yes, you can sell things for more than you bought them, but when you total in the time looking, the distances traveled, the time and materials for refinishing, shipping, the time and expenses with establishing a sales forum, the losses from mistakes, you are rarely ever making any money, especially not *easy* ... | |||||
| Hold on a minute. The front | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Zephyr | Identification | |
| Hold on a minute. The front apron piece looks like Red Meranti, or something like that. I agree something does not look right here. I have never taken apart any of the Rosewood versions. Is the apron (frame under the cushion or cord) different than the teak versions, which I have always seen to be beech? And if these are stained teak, I would certainly expect to see beech under there. I know there are some unmarked examples of these out there, but they are only a small percentage. Is there no markings on the inside, right or left side of the apron? The ... | |||||
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