Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| 1stdibs; Nightmare! | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | yongyou | General discussion | |
| Hello everyone, I bought this chairs from 1stdibs because the dealer described this chairs are produced in 1960-1969. I just found out that this two stamps means it is produced in 1971 or later. I am very disappointed. I bought it from Michaela Bauer - Vintage Interiors. I asked her how the condition is before purchase, and confirmed that chairs are in excellent condition. And it is indian rosewood, not brazilian rosewood. I reported the issue to the dealer and she told me she doesn't understand why I am upset because chairs are rare and great condition. Se ... | |||||
| Caning Question For Spanky, Or Anybody Else | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | mgee76 | Repair | |
| ... somebody locally who can do the cane work. Three people have turned me down, telling me it's too difficult of a job. I've never done pressed cane work, but it seems rather straightforward and simple. I spoke to a qualified guy in CA and he seems convinced that the job is quite doable on my own (he would also be selling me the materials in this case, of course, but he strikes me as trustworthy). Having never done it... is it stupid to attempt to teach myself on chairs like this? What sorts of things haven't I considered, or need to be careful about? You just ... | |||||
| Looks good! "It wasn't | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | Spanky | Repair | |
| Looks good! "It wasn't exactly difficult, just really stressful" describes the process very well, at least until you have some experience (or so I assume--I am not at that point yet). Some cane will dry with a grayish tint if you soak it too long but I don't know how to know for sure before you start if this will happen. Yours looks fine. One thing that might help a bit to get the cane into the groove without it popping out again or breaking---snip or remove the strands outside parallel(ish) to the groove to ease some of the tension. If you've ever don ... | |||||
| With so many things to keep | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | frankielemmons | Repair | |
| With so many things to keep straight while doing this, the crosses really are difficult. And it is comforting to think that it will be easier the second time around. Another reason I'm thinking of redoing it vertical strands first is this original photo from the Danish furniture index that shows, I believe, that the woven back should conform to the curve of the top and bottom rails. | |||||
| I finished the warp today - | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | frankielemmons | Repair | |
| I finished the warp today - overall this was easier than I thought it would be. I'm sure the weft will be harder, but before I move on to that I wanted to ask about what I've done so far. I tried to leave some slack in the warp strands given the curve of the top and bottom rails. The cane has enough stretch that it can almost mimic the curve of these rails when pressed on individually, but I'm wondering if they are still too tight? It's difficult to photograph but I tried anyway. Thanks in advance! | |||||
| Photos would help, but I'd | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | tktoo | Repair | |
| Photos would help, but I'd reinforce the repair with a couple of layers of E-glass on the top (under the cushion) side. Simply gluing the fractured plies won't restore adequate structural integrity. Procedure is a little tricky, but not difficult if you're "handy". Follow up if you need additional advice. I've seen this type of damage on these before. I think it's probably caused by a heavier person sitting on an arm. | |||||
| I'm glad I could help in some | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | Herringbone | General discussion | |
| I'm glad I could help in some way. And I totally understand your point about the materials you would and would not use. It's a difficult topic really. I think it touches the issue of respect for a designer and his work but also the issue of a room becoming a 'time capsule', that we discused in another thread a couple of days ago. Sometimes I feel offended when I see a new edition of Jacobsen chairs covered in purple velvet. Or Wegner chairs painted in some fancy colors, limited edition. Blasphemy! You must not do that! But on another occation I might get bo ... | |||||
| @herringbone: thank you, I | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | Ernest Rams | Identification | |
| @herringbone: thank you, I did not know there was one advertised here too. Also did not know it had double sided drawers. I guess one would need to put it in the middle of a room, maybe in between two couches for fully exploiting its design. Quality does look good though. @leif: thank you for your help! I agree that the details of the sideboard speak for a more expensive item than everage, including the back flip on top, probably to avoid that objects would fall on the back of the sideboard. As you say, it's probably from a time where the market was overload ... | |||||
| As second thought, I have no | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | Ernest Rams | General discussion | |
| As second thought, I have no connections (unfortunately :-)) to the above mentioned companies. By reading more carefully the webpage, it is not clear whether the chair in question (or other products) are made in Denmark. But I guess this might be the case, otherwise I would find difficult to fully understand (excluding materials) the not cheap prices. The collection seems to be nice though. Maybe for that price an original chair in decent conditions can be found. Cheers Ernest | |||||
| Seems like an item that a | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | tktoo | Identification | |
| Seems like an item that a local metal smith or machine shop could easily fabricate if they are otherwise difficult to source, especially since you can supply original parts to duplicate. | |||||
| Just hitting it with dye or | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | mgee76 | Repair | |
| ... product and just play with it a little bit. It dries relatively fast, compared to other fillers, but has a good amount of workability within that window. Tinting the filler with pigment before applying it will save you time down the road, if you choose, but it isn't required and different additives will have different effects on the consistency and dry times of the epoxy. What I do when I am repairing a piece with a lot of little nicks is mix up a little more putty than I need. Then I just go around the piece, pushing little blobs of it onto the spots that ... | |||||
| How do you know about the | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | Herringbone | General discussion | |
| How do you know about the technical equipment at Rud. Rasmussen's? I'm really courious to learn more about how the master cabinetmakers worked but I find it difficult to find sources. | |||||
| Yes I agree. There two | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | Ernest Rams | Identification | |
| Yes I agree. There two possibilities here (or maybe more 🙂 1) The chair is Danish, very rare, from a non so famous designer/producer, so it would explain why it's so difficult to find it on the internet. I have tried with a large combinations of names and producers. 2) The chair is a post-copy inspired danish-chair, that would explain too why we can't find it. For the pillows I would not worry too much, wither they are original and odd as they look, or most likely they are not original and they should not look like this. Cheers Ernest. | |||||
| even though the bulk of the | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | objectworship | Identification | |
| Even though the bulk of the octagon can be difficult, it still looks pretty neat. Cool stuff! | |||||
| Got a Ulm Stool from Max Bill | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Ernest Rams | General discussion | |
| Got a Ulm Stool from Max Bill for Zanotta, lacquered in back. I think Vitra is the currently producer. I have been hunting for one in wood, but difficult to find for decent price. I'll keep my eyes tuned, hoping to find the version with the little drawer under the seat. | |||||
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