Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Shucks spanky! | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Mark | General discussion | |
| Shucks spanky! It's all in the details. I mean, look what happened to Liz Taylor! They had her sweet tooth made into 4 large lamp finials. It made all of the difference in the world! And don't get me started on Debbie Reynolds. What a mess. Probably smokers. Best, Aunt Mark ps I shall search for my ivory turtle finials, put away after a friend was offended by them for being ivory. It's not easy. And absolutely, I'd wear a mink. Maybe dyed pink? But I digress. | |||||
| Oh, I understand perfectly | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | odile | Repair | |
| Oh, I understand perfectly fine what what you and tktoo are telling me. And that is YOUR opinion. Of course, you are free to share your opinion, but doing so is not helpful at all, as I am clearly saying that I want to change the color differences. But it is not just about sharing your opinion. Tktoo was being patronizing, acting like I did not know that color difference with old furniture is normal. I explained to him that I understood his opinion, but that I was looking for another answer, and actually HE was the one who did not understood/accept MY opinio ... | |||||
| Hi everyone, here are some | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | odile | Repair | |
| Hi everyone, here are some more photos of the bookcase (without shelves) you can see the color difference really well. I asked a professional woodworker and he told me to remove the wax, sand the wood (not too harsh, you don't want to go through the veneer), use water based stain and touch up with color wax. He said that teak oil wouldn't help at all to restore a uniform color. Thoughts are welcome! I already did some work on the bookcase, there were stains on the front of the bookcase and I sanded and reoiled with osmo top oil. Worked really well. | |||||
| Hi, | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | odile | Repair | |
| Hi, You are presuming I am keeping it for myself. I am not. I am planning to resell it. The shelves can be adjusted and when you do, the color difference is very dusturbing. Customers might not be interested in a sun faded bookcase. Besides, I compete with shops that sell these kind of bookcase in pristine condition (or don't mention the color difference) I understand your opinion, but thats not what I am asking for... | |||||
| Or take them to a pro that | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | tktoo | Repair | |
| Or take them to a pro that knows the difference between "conservation" and "restoration" and where and when to draw distinctions. "Original condition" can mean a lot. Tart them up at your own risk. If they were mine, I'd give them a gentle but thorough brushing off and then store them, covered, in a safe place until they appeared in an appropriate auction. | |||||
| Nice work Spanky, that is one | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Zephyr | Repair | |
| Nice work Spanky, that is one heck of a big job, and clearly, from your pictures, made a world of difference. I am ADD to the extreme, so I just dont have the patience to go the solvent route, especially when the piece is something I am planning to sell. I agree that it works, and that it is cheaper materials-wise, and that all things considered is less chemically dangerous than methylene chloride. I will give it another try, using the soaking method, next time I come across a shellac refinish. | |||||
| I've worked with Maharam | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Spanky | Repair | |
| I've worked with Maharam Pebble Wool quite a bit and it's actually one of my favorite fabrics ever. I think it would be great for your needs! It's not at all itchy (and I find a lot of wools scratchy) plus the texture will help the seams to disappear. Steelcut Trio is nice but it's very smooth and not very forgiving so the seams will be very visible and you may also get little puckers at the curves. Tonus would be fine if you like the solid color look but it sounds like you want more texture and/or color variation. I have made cushions for a couple of ... | |||||
| Yeah I mean it's kinda boned | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | mgee76 | Repair | |
| Yeah I mean it's kinda boned either way. Layering raw veneer has worked for me in a couple instances, because it allowed me to blend out the edges of the repair, as long as the glue line isn't too thick. But it does then require that you are able to handle the color difference, and these were on pieces with a spray lacquer finish. Typically I can tint some finish and put it on with a very fine brush, build a layer of clear over that, and then level everything out before the final coat and it's really hard to notice. If you're doing an oil finish here, probab ... | |||||
| I have not seen an example of | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | Repair | |
| I have not seen an example of this being done with a Danish piece. It is not to hard to find examples of all sorts of veneer work with antique furniture. A would make a big difference if the veneer is glued on with hide glue, or something else less reversible. | |||||
| Agree with Mark that the set | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | tktoo | Identification | |
| Agree with Mark that the set appears authentic with cherry veneers and with regard to color of the leather. Everybody has black on rosewood. Vivre la difference! | |||||
| I googled it and found lots | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Evelyn | Repair | |
| I googled it and found lots of Lnails, including the difference between real ones and the rest. I'll have to get it all sent here anyway, as I'm in Israel. I'll talk about it with the restorer. Thanks a lot. | |||||
| RE: Who else besides Arne Hovmand Olsen and Rastad & Relling did those wraparound shell arms? | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | lexi | Identification | |
| @staceyneil I found an image of your chair,or at least, a very similar one. There is,however,one apparent difference. Yours do not seem to have screw fixings under the arm rests. According to the web it is designed by Ingmar Relling. Modell: Senior. Produced by Vestlandske Møbelfabrik. Norway Lexi Photo courtesy Mats Linder Attachment: da-id-request.jpg | |||||
| Newly released CH24 variant | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| This ad appeared in my local newspaper this week. Who can specify the differences between this chair and the production CH24 ? (First post in new format. Let's see if I can add a second image . . .) Guess not. The main---or only---difference seems to be the upholstery ? Attachment: WegnerCH24special2019.jpg | |||||
| Thank you for your response. | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | MCMDanishZ | Repair | |
| ... sense because the side chairs are narrower than the armchairs) but still 26 on the sides. When I counted the lateral strands on my side chairs, some of them had 25 and some had 26. (It appears there was some variation at the factory on this.) Putting my side chair next to my armchair, the difference in length of the side rails is about 1 3/4", which translates to about another 3 or 4 nails. I'm going to keep looking into this before I actually do anything, just to make sure I don't put too many or too few nails. Worst case scenario, I might just try wrappin ... | |||||
| Ole Wanscher Senator (3-seater): "France & Son" vs "P. Jeppesen" | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | timmy_ | General discussion | |
| Hello, Is there any difference in terms of quality or value/price between an Ole Wanscher Senator (3-seater, teak) produced by "France & Son" and "P. Jeppesen"? Many thanks, Timmy | |||||
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