Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Here are some additional | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | ianmac | Identification | |
| Here are some additional close up pictures of the bases and shell. The bases has some light corrosion but its coming off very easily with a piece of aluminum foil. As far as the bases, definitely not penetroled. I took a pic next to some old brunswick chairs I used penetrol on and the difference is noticeable. I took some real close up pics that show the fibers nicely. I am thinking these are just some very nicely preserved examples. Ian | |||||
| In my experience, here are | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Zephyr | General discussion | |
| ... difference between each is pretty minimal, and one could be exchanged for the one next to it pretty easily. A lot will also depend on the actual characteristics of the wood. I really think you are probably making a mountain out of a mole hill here. An extremely skilled finisher can match just about any color with any wood, but when considering what a mere mortal can hope to accomplish, the majority of the final color/tone will depend on the wood itself. There is solid advice above, clean well, very lightly sand, use Watco Danish oil. If you are a puris ... | |||||
| Some pictures might allow a | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Kyle Barrett | General discussion | |
| Some pictures might allow a more informed solution. It'll make the difference between definitive advice and conditional advice. If they're already dark, there's a chance they're fairly dirty - cleaning them with fine steel wood and a Danish oil might actually make them lighter as your scrub off grime. Alternatively but a more effective and long winded version of this, is to use hot soapy water (I actually imported Murphy's Oil Soap, because of advice on here and I will be doing that for the foreseeable future) to clean first and see how they turn out. Howeve ... | |||||
| Thank you Keyle and Spanky. | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Ernest Rams | General discussion | |
| Thank you Keyle and Spanky. Despite the fact that the backs are still fine, I guess one would need to re-cane those too, otherwise the difference in color would be too evident... | |||||
| Yes, I see what you mean. | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| Yes, I see what you mean. Unless the top drawers are a different wood or have a different treatment on them, I think it has to be coincidence, or some unintended consequence of everyone using the top drawer in a different way than the botttom drawer. But really I think it has to be coincidence. Especially with white oak. Even if the factory picked darker boards for the top drawer, there is little gaurantee they would preserve that difference since oak can change color so much. | |||||
| Sorry all, I got sidetracked | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Spanky | Repair | |
| ... be continuing the search until my kids bury me in the ground. As for the pegs, they could be nylon, and given the vintage probably are... I can't really say I could tell the difference between them. A heavy nylon peg (the fat part is the size of 2-3 pound coins stacked) feels like plastic. I guess maybe the discoloration from oxidation might be indicative of nylon? Seems like more than I'd see with plastic, but again, I really have no idea. Funny about the guitar peg comment... yeah, they look distinctly like stubby guitar pegs. The hardest part with a ... | |||||
| Considering that the texture | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | Identification | |
| Considering that the texture of oak is fairly similar to teak as in both coarse grained with large pores, it can sometimes be hard to spot the difference--from across the room. The rays in a quarter sawn piece of white oak give it away though, even from across the room. tktoo: I wonder, had you put the ammonia bottle against the end grain if the fumed color would have gone quite a lot deeper? I imagine the answer is yes, even though white oak has tyloses sealing off the pores to water. | |||||
| Yes, I would say those legs | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| Yes, I would say those legs look like Afrormosia, although I can't really see the detail enough to be certain. If they are Afrormosia, it seems likely the edge banding is too, based on the color difference. | |||||
| For your reference, here is | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Zephyr | Identification | |
| For your reference, here is the difference between the two DFC marks, for dating purposes. | |||||
| Dear Orca & the expert Leif | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | FirmH | Identification | |
| ... I believe, that the discussed chair is designed is by Mogensen, as his signature proportion and wood joinery is well-recorded as evident in his chair designed for Fredericia model BM-2254 (in late 1950s). Similarly, the chair that I have; has the same label as of Orca's chair. Also the proportion of the design and wood joinery is remarkably Mogensen. The difference is that my has oak veneer plywood on back rest. As for the manufacturing date I don't know. Please feel free to fill me it on the records and information you have. The chair would have been in ... | |||||
| This request could quite | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Zephyr | Repair | |
| ... best bet is to get the glass doors made by a glass shop. Measure the width of the groove (I suspect it is 5/16" or smaller), slightly less than this will be the thickness you need for the glass (probably 1/8" or less). Then measure the depth of the groove that the glass goes in, top and bottom. The top should be slightly deeper than the bottom. Now measure the height of the opening. Take the height of the opening, plus the depth of the bottom plus the difference of the depth of the top. Now you have the height of the glass. Finally, measure the over al ... | |||||
| Yeah, sorry, I should have | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Zephyr | Identification | |
| ... a chair that is functional, decent quality materials, and everything looks correct at 6ft. If you want a collector level piece, that looks correct at 6", you are going to have to pay a lot more than that. For comfort, I much prefer the Plycraft version. It is a bit taller, and it tilts back, which makes all the difference in comfort for my 6'3" frame. Definitely doesn't have the look or the proportions of the Eames Lounge though. | |||||
| my god spanky, I tried to | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | Mark | Identification | |
| my god spanky, I tried to edit above...but I'd allow that sofa (looking like it's looking) into my home. Yes I would...if I had room. What a difference a day makes. Jesus, Aunt Mark Perhaps the back cushions should lack any tufting. I still like the lighter gray contrast textile to marry the back pale gray textile with the white arms....whilst providing good solid visual weight with the charcoal chunk below. Very tasteful combination with the white lacquer trim. Yeah, no tufting. Less fuss. Plus, I am so impressed with your photoshop (or what???) sk ... | |||||
| Yes, try a thinner one. It's | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | SDR | Repair | |
| Yes, try a thinner one. It's a major difference. Frid espoused them for everything from paint removal to . . . I don't know what. Early on in the cabinet trade, once away from all-laminate and into actual furniture and hardwood, I sharpened a springy putty knife, to cut freshly congealed glue squeeze-out from the interior corners of a cabinet, without wetting (usually) or spreading the glue around. Worked like a charm, and it became a standard tool for me. I find we have to invent, sometimes: modify a tool to our own liking -- teach ourselves, in oth ... | |||||
| Brought home another stray... | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | _ | General discussion | |
| Brought home another stray... https://www.moma.org/collection/works/1836?locale=en It needs some work but replacing the fuse made a big difference, it still works. | |||||
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