Search result for: the-last-thing-you-aquired-
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| midmod | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | LRF | General discussion | |
| midmod I definitely appreciate that Vitra and Howard Miller are keeping interest in them alive, I wish this were a true statement Vitra cause they see money along with Jacquline Nelson, estate. but Howard miller could care less i have talked with them along with some others and as far as they a re concened these are some step kids that they would like to forget, It erks the hell out of me that one of the greatest compies of the 20 century who made there survial on the Nelson clocks would have such a low regard for them and not have a full time archivest who could tell you and give you information on each clock. and why they would let them expire like a lease on 57th and 5 th Ave in NYC for no reason, There opion not mine was they saw no future in replicating some of the original designs and the one they did replicate, they pulled out of circulation when the last clocks were bought up by vendors (astrick clock) When Nelson whent to the grave, and that big MCM place in the sky the designs whent with him. along with the Nelson office and ideas, Thank g-d Vitra had enough for site to get hold of Jacqueline Nelson and make a business deal with her and hats off to Modernica . I don't always agree with all there case study stuff but they sure as hell got it down perfect on the bubble lamps they are better than the howard miller ones, and they did something right Now there fiberglass chairs, sorry folks they suck!!!!!! One thing for damn sure this would never happen with the Eames office and Eames grand son who knows how to drain the last nickel out of the Eames name, if they were grandpas clocks they would be making every one of those clocks and a gold sticker for the 100th birthday on the back so hats off to that clan. Pity about the Nelson family, taking what ever they can geton 8 out of 100 clocks. | |||||
| ConnyE, yes, that's what I | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| ConnyE, yes, that's what I thought was going on. The front rail is 16.5" long and the back rail is 13.25". The wraps should only cover 1 5/8" on each end, effectively shortening the front rail so that it matches the back rail. Jesgord--it took me awhile to figure out how to do the back corners of my J16. The back rail is deep, which makes a big difference at the ends of it. It's been awhile so I'm not sure I remember exactly what was so frustrating--I think it was that the cord didn't want to stay put on the underside of the rail in the first few rounds? Or maybe it just looked really wrong? I remember trying several different things and nothing looked right. Finally I just plunged ahead as if that's how it was supposed to be and pretty soon it looked right. It was just very different from a wishbone. Caleb James shows how to do this in his video. It's not in the Widess book--at least not in the Danish chair instructions. The other thing is to make sure you do those front rail wraps correctly so that you move from the second one to actual weaving from the inside end of the wrap, not the outside end of it. Otherwise you end up with this annoying bit of cord going a quarter way around the leg post. (This photo is of my chair when I gave up on the thicker cord because I thought it was why I was having so much trouble weaving the seat---I resorted to the standard 1/8" cord and it looked HORRIBLE. So very, very wrong---of course. Those back slots are perfectly sized for 3 strands of 1/4" cord. Thankfully better help came along via the internet and I rewove the seat correctly this past year and now it looks as it should.) | |||||
| Intuiting your colors... | 1 Relevance | 23 years ago | aethellen | General discussion | |
| Intuiting your colors... One more note - don't be afraid to put different colors on each wall and ceiling. One thing I've learned, esp. in small spaces is that the amount of direct light a wall gets versus the amount of reflected light it gets makes a huge difference in the wall color. To compensate, I have often painted window walls (walls less likely to get direct light) with subtlely lighters shades of the same palette I'm putting on the walls across from the windows - the ones that get all the light. Also, consider what wall you see when you get up in the morning - the energy you get from that color will be important, but it will also have to work to help you relax when you close your eyes for rest at night. If you like a strong color, you can put it on the wall where the head of your bed might be - you will see it when you enter the room, and when you make your bed in the morning, but it won't disturb your sleep. That's just one idea - follow your instincts and go with colors that are compelling to you - just be critical of the intensities of color you use in the space and their placement. So many times people think white walls are bad, but then jump to the opposite end of the spectrum missing all the subtle shades in between. Pay attention to the undertones in the colors you choose too and test your colors in the smallest quantities first, before you have them mix gallons of something you might hate later. And - just in case you get gallons of paint you end up finding are just a bit too wrong - mix your own color - just make sure you have enough of it! Some of the best, most interesting shades come when you do the mixing and follow your ideas and intuition. The paint people at the store are trained to match chips and sell paint, not be intuitive -- that's your job. Good luck and enjoy the process!! | |||||
| Assistance | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | TinyArmada | General discussion | |
| Assistance I redid a whole bunch of old chairs and I have some advice for you: They will look better restored, but this will probably effect the resale value. In some instances it can increase the value if done well. The chairs I redid had their value substantially increased - and they look brilliant. You have several key issues to deal with, the chairs I dealt with were plywood layers with a veneer on the top - I assume yours are, too. First thing to do is take extensive photographs outside of the chair so you can record the exact tone of the chair color - or research on-line to see how they looked originally. This advice is if you want to get them looking super flash. Remove the mounts. Have them coated in an oil to restore the rubber to a palliable texture and re-hydrate the rubber. Mark on the wood where the mounts are to go. My advice is to use a slightly smaller circle to mark the wood - use a nail head to lightly circle the wood. You want this so sanding will not erase the line - this is why you should use a smaller circle - only slightly. If there are stickers do not try to remove, you will destroy them. Cover them with plastic sheet and tape around them. Time to strip it down. Use the Jaco stuff at home depot/lowes. It is serious stuff. It will rip the surface junk off. Have plenty of rags around and wipe it/rub it off very well. DO NOT let it dry up, put it on thick - obviously you have detached the wood from the frame before you do this. Once that is done, use mineral spirits to take away any residue. Let it dry half an hour. Time to sand. DO NOT under any circumstance use a belt sander! The whole chair has to be done by hand sanding. You may find after stripping down that some other fellow before you tried to redo it - and left sanding marks. Maybe not. | |||||
| I am in the home stretch of | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Zephyr | General discussion | |
| I am in the home stretch of weaving my first Yugo folding chair. It has been an excellent learning experience! While it is turning out far better than what was there to start, there are definitely mistakes that were made. But then how do you get good at this type of thing, if you are not making mistakes? I had a couple questions on the final steps here, that I am hoping experienced Danish cord weaveres might be able to help with: - I have finished the chair back and also the warps on the seat. Now I am starting the wefts of the seat, and am looking at how to deal with the narrow slot on the side rails. To this point I have been doing the math, and then using velcro strips to keep my coil tidy, and then feeding the whole coil back and forth to do the weaving. But now this is no longer possible with the narrow slot on the side rail. I did the front part (where the handle is) easily enough, but this area does not require a really long length of cord, so weaving the whole length back and forth was not too bad. But now with the back part of the weft, I am looking at 4 times the cord length of the little part up front (200 some feet), which will definitely not be easy to keep from knotting up, or getting really twisted. Does anyone have any pointers for doing this section? - Also interested in opinions on how best to tack the cord down at the ends. I used a staple gun on the chair I am currently working on, but this really looks kind of crude. Is there a tack of some sort that anyone would recommend? L-nails? Thoughts? I am planning on putting together a post of all the things I learned from this experience, once I am through with this first chair. I have another of these Yugo folding chairs to do, and after that, I will probably rip all the cord off this first chair, and re-weave it, since I am unable to see past the flaws in my first attempt here. Thanks! | |||||
| Danish Cube Dry Bar...Poul Heltborg maybe?? What do you think?? | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | adcvintage | Identification | |
| Hello guys!! I've just bought today this beautifully made portable Cube Dry Bar , but even when I havn't gone for a full research myself i wanted to know what to do you think. Beautiful design in rosewood, with brass hinges and locks. Marked in black "Made in Denmark" several times at the bottom. Also at the bottom there is what it appears to be the rest of a rectangular sticker that would have saved me some trouble if it was still there :)))) Bottle rack is lined in black vinyl and it has also a drawer that can be opened from both sides. Thats 4 doors there, that once opened it allows you to swivel the flip top table and double the size of it (it's 63x63x63 cm when closed) making the whole thing useful as a cocktail or coffee table. It has wheels, so it can be use as a portable cart bar too. I've seen similar things on some Poul Heltborg designs, made for Domus Danica fabric, but nothing going in this way and shape. Any leads on this?? Thank you all!! | |||||
| A bit late to the table | 1 Relevance | 20 years ago | LuciferSum | General discussion | |
| A bit late to the table I feel I have come to this thread a bit late. Reading whitespike's postings I can identify with his rapid interest and respect for the Eames. I am going through a similar obsession, to the dismay of many friends - who now forbid me from talking about chairs. My fascination with the Eames philosophy has led me to acquire a number of their pieces - and in a small space this becomes an issue of storage rather than design. My roommates alternately joke about me seeking a 12 step program, and offering to put more of their furniture into storage to make room for a new addition. However, I dont believe I am Charles Eames. I dont believe the furniture owns me. With the sole exception of my two plywood chairs I would not be devastated if I gave up all of the others. The plywood chairs I would keep - both for sentimental reasons, and for usability. The one important thing I do use my collection for is inspiration. While I may not be the Eames, I respect so many facets of their designs processes. Possesing the chairs allows me to be reminded of what I admire, and serve as an icon to which I aspire. I have no sofa now (does that mean I am naught?). When I get one it will most likely be an Eames sofa compact - a) to work with the existing pieces I have. b) because I enjoy living in small spaces. However, if the sofa compact proves uncomfortable I will not purchase it. My space is meant to be used. I believe in clearing out as much "stuff" as possible. Wherever possibly I rid myself of unusable items. It proves difficult only in the area of sentimentality. Many little doo-dads here and there are given to commemorate an occasion, or to remind me of a person/place/event. Altho - isnt that of itself a function? | |||||
| Calling it a false start... | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| Calling it a false start... Calling it a false start probably only serves to confuse the term postmodernism even more, in much the same way the "post" of that word sends folks immediately and understandably in the wrong direction. Postmodernism was/is at once emergent and already part of the race, a story old as legs. Even if much of it seems like a slap to the face of modernism, a twist, a poke in the ribs, or as Koen so aptly put it, a spectacle, there is really nothing 'false' or 'start' about it. For better or worse, it's a part of the family of knowledge. One kid went to college, one kid went to a Grateful Dead concert, one kid... Heidegger, Eames, Derrida, Sottsass, you name them. Modernism, poststructuralism, whatever, all part of the stew. One thing I'm not seeing addressed very much in this discussion is context. Postmodernism or, indeed, most any aesthetic that might have been tagged with the moniker of "Movement", as far as I can tell, has a tendency to often emerge as a kind of response, valid or not, to the potentiality of cultural totalitarianism. I am certainly simplifying this too much, but it should not be surprising that many of societies "isms" can be traced closely to periods of war or civil unrest. I believe this phenomenon can at least be pretty easily understood - if not found to be very acceptable - even in light of the fact that one of its manifestations is that it can make the tree lean rather sadly for some toward a state of moral relativism. At worst, postmodernism - destructive to some notions as it might seem to be - simply adds something to a body of knowledge. That 'something' is sometimes referred to as enlightenment, but such definition is anybody's guess. At its best, maybe it was saying, among other profanities, even though life is very serious, might it be good, at least at times, to not take certain things so seriously. As the kids like to say, or used to like to say - the term I'm reminded is already passe/postmodern - shit happens. | |||||
| buyer beware | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | _ | General discussion | |
| buyer beware I believe the early Eames fiberglass chairs by Zenith Plastics were never produced with an embossed "Z" but only with a square red white black decal that would state that the chair was produced by Zenith Plastics for Herman Miller in Gardena CA. Also a very early fiberglass armshells will have an unusually large I mean larger than the usual rubber shock mounts and the edges would have what is known as a rope edge, literally a rope was imbedded along the edges of the chair with the fiberglass molding process. The earliest RAR were never sold to the public but was given as gifts to Herman Miller employees having a baby. Make sure that if you are paying top dollar for this chair that the seller will guarantee that they are selling you the real thing and if it turns out to be a fake that you can return it an get your money back and put the transaction in writing. Most refutable dealers will have no problem with this but if this dealer says no way, walk away fast. Pay accordingly, there are vintage later fiberglass shells being sold attached to a more recent reproduction base and if the base is vintage, the armshell might be more recent. Remember there are companies out there like Modernica in LA that still make new fiberglass shells. Also check the Eames Office Gallery website and go through the vintage Eameas furniture raisone section and look through the images of what early versions of this chair should look like. ( http://www.eamesoffice.com/eames-furniture-raisonne) Good Luck! | |||||
| India ink | 1 Relevance | 14 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| India ink Is water plus soot (carbon) plus a water based hardened or adhesive. So if you put that over a coat of oil based stain, you best case scenario would be a died film that peels.right off the top, leaving you right where you were. You worst case is that the oil based stain has not completely saturated the wood's ability to absorb, and some India in does soak in leaving the surface even more splotchy than before, and with a film on the surface that will peel off immediately. The only thing you can do now to even out the "color" is to apply oil based substances or sand it and start over with water based. So you could apply more stain. You could darken the stain with black oil paint. Basically the stain is just thinned paint anyway. It is applying an opaque black film on the wood, covering the wood. Due to differences in the wood it is very hard to get just the right amount of this on there so that the grain shows through, and the floor doesn't appear splotchy. The better way to ebonize a wood, especially if you want an even tone, would be to sand the oil off, apply a quebracho bark powder tea to the surface to increase and regularize the tannin levels across the floor, and then apply iron acetate (vinegar that has eaten some steel wool) or iron sulfate (available in nurseries to correct leaf yellow iron deficiency). This causes a chemical transformation in the tannins that makes them black, but leaves all the character of the wood because the color is in the wood instead of on top of it. There are much better tutorials for this process if you google something like "ebonize wood iron" | |||||
| Getting closer to a decision | 1 Relevance | 13 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| Getting closer to a decision Thanks so much for your reply! Can't imagine the time it took you to remove all of that vinyl spray - wow. The cushions look like they are in great shape - I'm jealous! The belting on our chairs is actually in great shape, so think I'll try to avoid replacing them. Funnily enough, the more we talked about his memory of the chairs the more my husband felt certain that while the cushions were black, the straps were closer to espresso. And my mother-in-law found the original receipt and with it an envelope that had the two other colors they were considering, teak and espresso. So we think that the store somehow sent a chair with espresso straps and black cushions, and that this was never corrected (the difference is slight enough that they may not have noticed, or opted to just deal with it, knowing my in-laws). All of which is to say that we're now thinking we'll go with espresso cushions to match the straps. One decision down! For the leather vs vinyl cushion option, I'd love more feedback. My heart wants leather but my head isn't so sure. It's hard to tell from the photos, but these don't have the individually sewn squares of leather, it's just one piece that has been tufted (apparently like many knock-offs of the era). This may be easier to reproduce if I'm trying to replicate the chairs we have instead of the Knoll chair. But regardless, I've no idea where to start for leather cushions! This is where I could really use input - not sure of the forum rules on listing vendors, but if that's not possible can people share experience on the internet-based vs brick and mortar options for this kind of thing? My upholsterer doesn't work in leather, but has told me we'd need 2 hides, so I know I could be looking at at least 1k for materials alone with an upholsterer. Any better deals to be had on well-made leather cushions that people have found? | |||||
| Pegboard. Thank you for... | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | Leslie Denham | General discussion | |
| Pegboard. Thank you for... Pegboard. Thank you for your feedback. It is what I was looking for, remarks about the actual pieces. I dont have a problem with my pieces being on the floor at all. I imagine that's where they are all at now. The pics may not make you uncomfortable, but as I said they dont accurately convey the show as a whole. I am a horrible photographer. Several of the tables were elevated to eye level, which to say the least is kinda wierd. A 250lb slab of concrete teatering on blocks at eye level? Another function the elevation serves is to allow the viewer to see all of the intricacies without having to kneal down. I can see you have taken offense to my comments twords Heath. I may have been wrong, but I felt he was treating me like a child. If this is not the case then I apologize to him, you and this forum. Generally speaking I am not a concieted person, I do not brag nor bolster. I am very friendly and helpful to all those around me. I felt attacked and I reacted. Another thing I would like to clarify is that for the most part I have not felt attacked here, and have appreciated most of the comments. Me defending my work and position is an essential element of the critiquing process. Glassartist. Thanks. Yes there is a great deal of pressure from peers and faculty to have my work "read" more conceptual. Like you said to hell with art school BS, most of it drives me up the wall. Some of it is practicle though, if I were a freshly graduating designer I doubt anyone would be buying my work. Art is like anything in this world, it has to be sold by someone. In this case I am selling myself just as much as the work when dealing with potential buyers. I think of my work like couture fashion, sure it is "designed", but it is still a one off piece of art (in my opinion). thus far they have been very well recieved commercially, and I consider myself very lucky for this. I just hope I will have the ability to continue making this bs for a long time to come. | |||||
| Koen, regarding saving oil for plastics... | 1 Relevance | 20 years ago | dcwilson | General discussion | |
| Koen, regarding saving oil for plastics... I have often thought the same thing. Its to precious to just burn up. We need it to make things out of...plastics, as Elaine's dad told Ben Braddock in The Graduate. 🙂 But... In reality, as a fellow pointed out to me, there is almost no chance that we will run out of oil to make things for two reasons. 1. Oil can be made from coal, and there is enough coal for many, many centuries, even if we keep fueling our stupid cars with it (though it takes more energy to crack the oil free of the coal than it generates so fueling cars would be very stupid to continue with if coal becomes the new oil). And if we quit using oil for gas and diesel, the coal reserves alone could yield enough oil to last humanity for many more centuries. I know, coal is messy and pollution rich. But if running out of oil for making things is what you are worried about, you like me, can forget it. The real problem will always be that we made too many short lived artifacts of oil and filled too many dumps with the toxic refuse of the artifacts. 2. Also, the science just keeps trickling in that oil doesn't come from dead animals and plants, at least exclusively, and perhaps not even largely. More and more the evidence suggests that oil from dead animals and plants hypothesis is refuted, or rendered at least inadequate as a scientific explanation. So where does it come from? The jury is out. But it is increasingly possible that it some or a bunch of it comes from a chemical process emanating from deep in the earth's crust or mantel. A trickle up theory if you will. I've had enough trickle down theories. I'm ripe for a trickle up one. 🙂 The problem facing humanity is too much oil. Not too little. IMHO. We can't resist burning it and making things with it because its just too plentiful. And it causes all kinds of problems, as well as good things. | |||||
| Skip, you're fun, - I don't c... | 1 Relevance | 21 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| Skip, you're fun, - I don't c... Skip, you're fun, - I don't care what anybody else says. Olive, ginkgo biloba - street name "gink" - is precisely to blame for my condition yesterday. Here I've got a devastating gink habit and you just rub it in. My life is going the way of my architectural practice. Autodeconstructivism! - why did I believe all that literary theory and drinking would make for sound architecture? Lawyers and liability in this country are gonna bury me if the gink and rubble don't first! Ahh well, that's life. As Hemingway said, "Fuck it all. I want to die now." On the subjects of comfort and organization, which I am pleased to tell you are On Topic for this thread, I have a New Yorker article for you that you may find relevant and informative, or unsettling, I don't know. It's interesting. The goddamned article [I can't find it - I'm looking. You'll get the name of it by god.] concerns the messy workplace desk, and it's relevant by analogy to the common Neanderthal pantry of which you speak. Organization is a tricky thing, the article points out, and many apparent means of promoting order prove less manageable, less efficient than some apparent messes. To be sure, organization is a comfort, and disorganization is a hell of misshapen steel I-beams and inscrutable legal documentation enveloping and imprisoning you - a hell from which only that blessed gink hit can deliver you, for a while, for a price. I'll share that article when I find it. [I found it. Waste of time. Irrelevant. My God this chair is uncomfortable.] ...I'll leave you with my two cents on another subject you brought up: Read in the quietest spot you can find, in any chair. If you begin to find that your arse pains you, put the book down. Who says it's the chair's shortcoming? | |||||
| Eames DCW copy ...restoration and identification? | 1 Relevance | 14 years ago | sillyrabbit | Identification | |
| Hi, I'm new here. Last night I found a great looking but dilapidated chair on the street. I knew it looked familiar, and when I looked it up, saw it was likely a copy of the DCW. No label, no marking. The dimensions are about 1/2-3/4" smaller than those stated all over the web for the authentic DCW. However, it's a really nice chair, but needs much work. The one thing I'm really curious about is the shock mounts. I've come across many posts mentioning the relatively hard to find "lozenge" shaped or oval shock mount on the back rest. Oddly, though I think this is a copy, it does have the oval mount. Do copies have that? Aside from that, can anyone provide info on how to restors and refinish this type of chair? One shock mount was clearly a handmade job- it's falling apart and made of some kind of foam. The one on the back rest spine is intact and attached, but unfortunately the back rest needs to be reattached to the mount. 🙁 I'd also like to refinish the wood, but this looks like several layers of wood, and I don't want to mess it up. Can I use sandpaper? Advice appreciated! Thanks! | |||||
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