Search result for: the-last-thing-you-aquired-
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Did Poul Cadovius design CREDENZA SIDEBORAD ? HELP with DANSH ID | 1 Relevance | 4 years ago | JBAMES | Identification | |
| Hello all, I have this Sideboard (pictured), unfortunately without its stickers/marks. The only thing I've found which is similar is that the handles are identical to examples of Poul Cadovius' design. does any have any leads on this one? Thanks very much in advance! Attachment: IMG_2646.jpg Attachment: IMG_2649.jpg | |||||
| Do kids consider modern design cruel & unusual punishment? | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | william-holden-... | General discussion | |
| The Creative Playthings hobby horse mentioned in the other thread reminded me of my own preferences as a young child-- I liked my colors garish, my textures plush, and my art highly representational. Is there a child on this earth who would choose hobby horse A (below) over hobby horse B, I wonder? It must be difficult for parents to convince their children of the superiority of the Creative Playthings school of toy design. Good thing that Might Makes Right. | |||||
| Hi, Thomas -- I'm going... | 1 Relevance | 18 years ago | finch | General discussion | |
| Hi, Thomas -- I'm going... Hi, Thomas -- I'm going to offer my bit on this, hopefully sans proselytizing or seeming like an endorsement for FH or anyone else. I recently moved cross country in a 22' Penske, loading every single last one of my possessions onto the truck and unloading them as well -- by myself, because I was too proud (foolish?) to ask for help and too cautious to pay for some grunts. This experience, grueling though it was, (think, hallucination from exhaustion) put me uniquely in touch with myself and my belongings. My stance is this: any of the things that I pay to house, lug, insure, upkeep, etc., had better be damn well worth the grief, let alone the liability to my total mobility, otherwise, it is nothing more than an impediment and a burden. To be fair, I do detect a very silly chivas regal thing going on with the PK line, (it does get comical, these price jumps from year to year), but at the same time, those replicas you refer to are almost entirely lovelessly crafted, by dubious chattel labor, and targeted at the lower end consumer bent on instant gratification. Don't be that guy. This forum is a bit of an amen corner for purists, so you have to expect a backlash to any inquiry into second or third bests. Everyone means well, I think, and it is not snobbery that compels the folks here. Good luck | |||||
| Danish VS Teak oil | 1 Relevance | 8 years ago | GooniePurr | Repair | |
| Hello! I recently bought and just started restoring 4 Moller 78 and 2 Moller 75 teak chairs. Unfortunately they were not properly maintained by their previous owners and were teak color varnished and upholstered with a chenille fabric (removing the old upholstery was a nightmare, I counted over 150 staples on each chair!). What I've done so far is stripping the old varnish and sanding them back to bare teak, filled some bumps and chew marks (!!!) on the legs with wood putty (mixed with teak dust for color matching, worked quite well). I am quite confused on whether I should use teak oil or danish oil for finishing. I did some research on pros and cons but I cannot decide. And two more things, first, would satin spray varnish protect the wood (after being oiled) in terms of having to re-oil annually or is such thing "Danishly" prohibited? Secondly, I will have the chairs reupholstered in vinyl by a professional (following the correct instructions I gladly found in this forum), so, which is the correct order, oil and having them reupholstered or the opposite? Thank you all in advance! | |||||
| If the piece is structurally sound, | 1 Relevance | 14 years ago | tktoo | General discussion | |
| If the piece is structurally sound, you might consider leaving it as is. As we all know, wood moves as it absorbs and desorbs moisture. Unfortunately, as the material ages, it also loses elasticity and is less able to return to its full dimensions during periods of higher relative humidity. Though teak is considered relatively stable once it has reached equilibrium with the environment, it is not immune from this effect. Compounding the problem is the shape of your particular piece, its staved construction, and teak's notorious tendency to resist glue. Worse, using the bucket for its intended purpose - imagine liquid water in the form of condensation between the plastic liner and the inner wall - could even exacerbate the problem. If it were mine, I'd continue to use it carefully and keep an eye on the glue-joint failure. There really is no such thing as a "permanent" fix, but a good repair is finicky to execute well and it, or other original joints, may well fail sometime down the line anyway. The open gap may even help delay future splits as it effectively provides relief for tension the vessel may come under as it inevitably shrinks. | |||||
| I just would be leery of | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Spanky | Repair | |
| I just would be leery of putting any finish over an existing one that is failing. I don't know how you can be sure that the old finish won't continue to fail under the new finish. If you want to go with a soaped or oiled finish on bare beach, just be advised that any pigment that you can't remove from the pores of the wood will be more visible when the chair is soaped or oiled. If you are ok with that--great. If you want a cleaner look, it might bother you. This is my J16 that I stripped, bleached, bleached again, sanded, soaped, rinsed off, and sanded again: https://www.designaddict.com/forum/Repair/restoring-weathered-beech-wood-... (It was actually varnished, not lacquered.) The staining is too deep and it still looked unsightly with a soap finish with added white pigment, so it will be black. I like these chairs best in black so that's fine with me. The only thing about the seat are the slots at the back. The cord there will be difficult to mask off completely. Sanding may be your best option for dealing with the old finish and then putting the new finish on in those areas with a small artist brush. I do think you should do whatever needs to be done to preserve the seat. | |||||
| to azurechicken | 1 Relevance | 21 years ago | designite | General discussion | |
| to azurechicken The idea was to feel the items in order to determine if wether or not, one can imagine what they look like on a visual angle. The question asked, was about the power of visual communication towards design. We actually live in a visual communication world (internet is a good example), but how can you distinguish a good design chair from a bad one just by looking at a picture of it, even if it would have been shot by a Kertesz, or an helmut Newton? Best thing is to experience the sitting in this chair, it's shape, line and so forth... On the other hand, if you just want to focalize on the strictly visual communication, the topic of design would be in my opinion undetermined by the rules of graphic and aesthetic representation of the medium that holds the image. Visual communication is a big enhancer for design. In our archaïc part of brain we first see the shape of the other (ennemy or woman), before we figure out if we intend to fight or seduce the person. Visual communication has to deal with the Platon's cavern myth .That's the shadows of our imagination that can boost our endorphins. (just a point of view) | |||||
| True enough... | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | Lunchbox | General discussion | |
| True enough... If you buy a DSR or a DAF from Design out of Reach it will have a Herman Miller label. But does that really mean it's the real thing? Both the Eames and Nelson fiberglass chairs currently being produced by Herman Miller are in fact REPRODUCTIONS. They are not being produced with the same materials or the same dimensions. So in reality, they might as well be knockoffs! I've never understood the fascination with labels. A piece of design is either legit or it's not. If you asked me whether I'd rather have a simple Ikea design(however temporary) or a polypropylene Eames shell chair, I'd go with Ikea every time. Whether the Ikea piece is constructed with the same quality or not is irrelevant. At least it's honest. It's not pretending to be something it's not. Nor is it bankrolling a hypocritical company which no longer gives a damn about design. So in summary, if you're looking to replace with quality, steer clear of Herman Miller unless it's vintage Herman Miller. Actually, just try to buy vintage at all costs. The only pieces I've ever regretted purchasing were new production pieces. That said, Knoll and Cassina still produce top quality stuff. But you'll pay for it. | |||||
| George Nelson Legs | 1 Relevance | 14 years ago | garlanre | General discussion | |
| Hi, I recently bought for a song a George Nelson dresser in need of serious restoration. It will be gorgeous when it's done, but I have a problem. At some point, someone took the legs off of the thing, so I'm going to have to make new ones. But I don't have any visual examples to go by. I've looked at photo after photo, but no one thinks of photographing a piece turned upside down with the legs completely visible. I know the legs are black, but are they made of painted wood? Are they metal? How wide are they? How thick are they? Are they attached with brackets, with screws, with bolts, to some sort of base? I can't make the legs if I don't know what to make. Does anyone have this dresser? And if you do, could you look underneath and describe what's there? What are the legs made of? What are their dimensions? What are they attached to? Or better yet, if you took a few pics and posted them, that would be a big help. I'd really appreciate this. I'm gonna try to upload a photo, but I rarely have any luck with this, so I'm also going to post a link to a good picture from 1stDibs. Thanks. Rebecca http://www.1stdibs.com/furniture_item_detail.php?id=711743 http://s1187.beta.photobucket.com/user/garlanre/library/George%20Nelson | |||||
| Eames Intermediate Chair?! | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | ZooMob | Identification | |
| What the heck is this thing? The arms look like the Eames Intermediate Chair, the tilt mechanism like the Aluminum Group, but nothing else seems to indicate Herman Miller or Eames. Any insights? | |||||
| Descoware | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| Descoware Descoware is the Belgian company I was thinking of. I think they made the light blue enameled cast iron with the darker blue fleur-de-lis or whatever it is. Nice looking, functional. Below is a link to the little Copco sauce warmer that I have. I've gotten several of these at auctions here in the U.S., never paying more than $2, and also a couple at a Copenhagen flea market (also cheap--$3-4). Mine is blue with a white interior, which i think looks nicer than all blue. I've also had all yellow and yellow/white. I forgot another Copco thing that I have---it's a wide, shallow enameled cast iron bowl with handles that rests on a Three Mile Island-style stand which holds a Sterno burner. I've never used it but I like it so much that I am holding on to it. I also have one of those boxy Copco tea kettles from the 70s in chocolate brown enamel with a teak handle. I love teak and dark brown together. I never use this either but I can't quite bear to part with it. Yet. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320241768896 | |||||
| I'm going to | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| I'm going to read her blog -- I swear -- but tell me quick about the shark tank ! Agree with everything from Heath, especially cross dowels. Designing effectively for wood is all about how wood is strong and how it isn't. So much can be done now with hardware, and so much can be done with glue. With one or the other of these strategies well applied, traditional joinery is virtually a thing of the past -- it seems to me. Put down that chisel, and plug in the table saw or the drill press -- and have those Jorgensen clamps at the ready ! The miter is an elegant devil -- the wood muse's practical joke on the long-suffering cabinetmaker. Glued long grain to long grain, nothing could be stronger. End grain miters should be splined, one way or another. For mitered frames of any kind, I like to glue it up and then slice for a spline afterward. Clamping miters can be as simple as stretching strong masking tape, using it as a hinge. Dowels glued to parallel grain are sublime; those glued into cross grain are fatally flawed. And so it goes . . . | |||||
| ok, nobody had anything to | 1 Relevance | 11 years ago | rh53w | General discussion | |
| ok, nobody had anything to add. the answer is that it's authentic, per conversations with people at knoll UK and wohnbedarf. also, despite the fact that people at conran shop, twenty twenty one, and also scott howard all said that saarinen coffee tables have oval bases, in reality ones produced in the UK for knoll have round bases. as confirmed by knoll, by wohnbedarf, and also by aram, which actually had one on display. so when you call people, even at authorized retailers, many times you find that they don't necessarily know what they're talking about. although it is worth noting that knoll US says that their oval coffee tables DO have oval bases. so knoll international is, interestingly, different. go figure. anyway, that is just fyi for anyone trying to figure this stuff out in the future. one thing that i am curious about is the following: it's an old table, clearly from before knoll started to apply its polyurethane coating to seal its marble surfaces. which means it'll stain more easily. does anyone here have any idea how best to seal a marble surface? i'd like to be able to put a glass on it sometime without worrying about permanently staining it, if at all possible. | |||||
| RE: Eames LCW Molded Playwood Chair - age, type of wood, value? | 1 Relevance | 6 years ago | frankielemmons | General discussion | |
| @mikeb you have a DCW and my guess is that its walnut. It's hard to make out the wood with the stain that someone has applied to the chair. The label on this example is from a very short time period when Evans was still producing the chair and Herman Miller was distributing, 1948-1949. Regarding repairs...there are shock mount repair kits all over the internet. I haven't done it myself, but it seems straightforward if you're detail oriented. Note that later versions of this chair have two shock mounts at the top of the backrest, whereas this has the single lozenge style mount. Whether or not you refinish the whole thing and strip it to get rid of the bad stain job is up to you. I had this exact chair - DCW in walnut with an Evans/HM label - until very recently. I always really liked that versions from this time period had the whole history of this chair's production in it - Evans being the company that developed the moulded plywood technique for the Eames splints and Herman Miller producing Eames furniture to this day. | |||||
| Adrian Pearsall 2315-C Loveseat Webbing Replacement & Joint Separation | 1 Relevance | 6 years ago | wpomeroy11 | Repair | |
| Hello, I have an Adrian Pearsall piece that has definitely been around the block, and I'm looking to make some small improvements to it. The biggest thing I am looking is the webbing. It has nylon webbing that is sagging, and I'd like to replace it with Pirelli webbing. Unfortunately, the webbing is nailed (see photo), and all the applications I've seen with Pirelli webbing use clips. Could I still use Pirelli Webbing but nail it, or am I stuck using nylon webbing? My next question involves the joints. I purchased the loveseat with a little bit of joint separation, and I'm curious if this is something that's easily repaired or not worth my time. See the attached photo and let me know what you think. This exists on both sides of the chair I attached a few photos in an imgur album here: https://imgur.com/a/fNMJEWp Any help would be appreciated. Attachment: IMG-1836.jpg | |||||
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